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Old 03-06-2011, 06:10 AM   #15
Restorations done right
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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Baltimore , Maryland
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I see Norm linked up my conversion. I made a chimney that extended the one on the new Dometic. The new reefers rely on all that space and the big louver type vents. On our trailers, Brian, we had neither. The louvered vents on yours were added by a previous owner I think. Our trailers used a solid door at the bottom that allowed access to the back of the unit and the burner. The heat from the coils was returned to the living space via the rear slit in the counter top. This uses a very simple system. In 1963 the heat and exhaust from the chimney was combined and sent out of that big duct that someone made reference to. With a little aluminum, a small brake, and a hand brake, you should be able to make a chimney to exhaust gasses out the original hole. Make sure the chimney extension has air space around it when it goes over the factory one. You want the exhaust to flow freely up not to be forced up. You can always use the big (sorry, terribly ugly) wall chase and long rectangular roof vent. You will easily find the cap, but the curb that vents through the skin will need to be salvaged or fabricated. It is is not easily seen, but this is a complex thing to fabricate.
Hope this helps you Brian. It all makes sense to me, but it might be a bunch to follow. Feel free to phone me, I think you have my number.

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Old 03-06-2011, 08:04 AM   #16
3 Rivet Member
1988 25' Excella
Trumbull , Connecticut
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 192
Gas Refer Venting has a good website on venting requirements for gas/electric refers. Worth looking at. On my 88 Excella I attached a baffel to the inside skin that forced the air entering from the lower vent onto the coils of the refer. When I did this it allowed me to turn down the control quite a bit.
Regards nm1oqrz

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Old 03-06-2011, 09:40 AM   #17
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1959 26' Overlander
Nowhere , Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
You can always use the big (sorry, terribly ugly) wall chase and long rectangular roof vent. .
Yeah, the newer vent is not nearly as slick looking as the little eyebrow. If that will work, I'd keep it. But make sure you seal it up well. The only thing keeping water from the roof cascading down that 1 1/2" hole into your wall and down to the floor and frame is a piece of aluminum angle bent into a triangle. The tip of the triangle is towards the top and directs water around the hole. If that triangle is not sealed we'll to the skin, it will be a leak source into the wall where you can't see it until it rots the floor.

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