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Old 01-18-2007, 10:24 PM   #41
Rivet Master
 
1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
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Hello farmsc ,

That stainless filter canister is made by Ogden ,it is original and its funny
yours is mounted underneath that way .you can get replacement filters for it
but they are about 40 bucks a piece and are NOT the same old style they came with years ago .I myself restored mine and do use it .I have it posted on the Ogden water filter thread SEARCH FUNCTION can be use to find it .
Shows the new filters for it ..My Ogden is mounted on the counter next to the kitchen faucet.

Scott
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:07 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbond
Is this the International heater being discussed?

This "IS" the furnace that explodes.

DO NOT USE IT.


Andy
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Old 08-21-2007, 07:33 PM   #43
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2020 30’ Globetrotter
2001 30' Excella
Phoenix , Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV_cool
Should be one of the following:
M16a M16b M16c M27a M27b M27c M27d M28a M28c M28d M50a M52a M52b M70
If it was replaced at one time, it will start with a RM, like RM77
See if you can locate a number similar to these. Most have a plate on the rear, or on the bottom of the refrigerator section in the front, normally the door would cover the plate ( in the closed position)
We need the door hinge pins for a Dometic M50, any chance you might have those around?
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:38 PM   #44
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
2021 27' Globetrotter
Gulfport , Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Park model furnaces are 120 VAC.

RV furnaces are 12 VDC.

There are no combo models that I am aware of.

It is better to add a battery, univolt etc, and have the benefits of running self contained.

If you have a furnace that operates on city power only, then should that power fail, your going to get very cold.

Andy

I know this is an old thread, I'm just trying to clear up the answer in my mind about getting a new furance. I have a '61 Overlander that has both 110v and 12v power, each light fixture has two lights, 110v & 12v. The three fans (roof vent, stove vent, and furance) each have one switch (labeled "city power/battery power") that runs the fan on either 110v or 12v. The roof vent fan has been replaced with a Fan-Tastic Fan and I replaced the stove vent fan motor with a 12v motor. Both of these now work on 12v only. The old stove vent fan motor had "AC/DC" stamped on it.

1. Was there a transformer and/or conventer for each of these fans to run on either 12v or 110v?
2. Is this technology/part still available? I know I could not find a new motor that was "AC/DC".
3. Is there any way to get a furnace with a fan that will run on both 110v and 12v? Or, is it like the other two fan motors, only 12v is now available?

Thank you
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Old 02-25-2008, 02:52 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea
I know this is an old thread, I'm just trying to clear up the answer in my mind about getting a new furance. I have a '61 Overlander that has both 110v and 12v power, each light fixture has two lights, 110v & 12v. The three fans (roof vent, stove vent, and furance) each have one switch (labeled "city power/battery power") that runs the fan on either 110v or 12v. The roof vent fan has been replaced with a Fan-Tastic Fan and I replaced the stove vent fan motor with a 12v motor. Both of these now work on 12v only. The old stove vent fan motor had "AC/DC" stamped on it.

1. Was there a transformer and/or conventer for each of these fans to run on either 12v or 110v?
2. Is this technology/part still available? I know I could not find a new motor that was "AC/DC".
3. Is there any way to get a furnace with a fan that will run on both 110v and 12v? Or, is it like the other two fan motors, only 12v is now available?

Thank you
Our '62 Ambassador has the same switches and furnace configuration that you speak of. The roof fan in the rear and the fan over the stove have a transformer that converts the 110VAC to 12VDC. When you select the Battery option on the switch, it bypasses the transformer and just uses the 12V from the battery. Our furnace has a selector switch and there is a fairly large transformer under the sink next to the furnace, that I assume controls that. I believe that the furnace is designed for 12VDC, and the transformer allows it to work on shore power. Since or era trailers do not have an intellipower system, that is how they did the voltages. I would think that you could tap into that transformer and keep a new furnace on a 12V system. I am not an expert on this but that is my understanding of how the system works.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:51 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
Our '62 Ambassador has the same switches and furnace configuration that you speak of. The roof fan in the rear and the fan over the stove have a transformer that converts the 110VAC to 12VDC. When you select the Battery option on the switch, it bypasses the transformer and just uses the 12V from the battery. Our furnace has a selector switch and there is a fairly large transformer under the sink next to the furnace, that I assume controls that. I believe that the furnace is designed for 12VDC, and the transformer allows it to work on shore power. Since or era trailers do not have an intellipower system, that is how they did the voltages. I would think that you could tap into that transformer and keep a new furnace on a 12V system. I am not an expert on this but that is my understanding of how the system works.
Thank you for the informatiom. There is no transformer under the kitchen sink next to the furnance. It must have been removed(the old furnance is still there). There is a small transforner in the top kitchen cabinet above the sink. I think this one was for the stove vent fan motor. So, now my question is:
Do they make a new transformer that will work with a new furnance fan motor on 110v? Or,should I just buy a converter that will work & recharge my battery?
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