Should be one of the following: M16aM16bM16cM27aM27bM27cM27dM28aM28cM28dM50aM52aM52bM70
If it was replaced at one time, it will start with a RM, like RM77
See if you can locate a number similar to these. Most have a plate on the rear, or on the bottom of the refrigerator section in the front, normally the door would cover the plate ( in the closed position)
Something didn't work with the links...Internet Explorer can't seem to open any of them. I'll look over the Fridge again tomorrow for any other #'s.
I am the proud new owner of a 1962 Tradewind. This is my first Airstream, as well as my first RV. Exterior is excellent, interior is OK. My first couple of questions are about the fridge and stove.
Check the make and model of the furnace.
If it's made by "International Oil Burner" DO NOT attempt to light it.
Parts are not available and have not neen for almost 38 years. It was a "JUNKER" when brand new. The originals had over a dozen modifications to them, while still in warranty.
They have a HUGE tendency to explode.
Remove it, bury it, and replace it with a Suburban NT30SP.
I just checked over the entire fridge...no tags/#'s anywhere. This leads me to believe that there may be more of the front missing than the door, since there are no hinges present either. The latch is still there, however. I'll try to get a picture soon and post it. Then I can find out if what I'm missing can still be found and whether it will be reasonable. I still plan on testing it this weekend.
Thanks for all the replies,
Kevin
I just checked over the entire fridge...no tags/#'s anywhere. This leads me to believe that there may be more of the front missing than the door, since there are no hinges present either. The latch is still there, however. I'll try to get a picture soon and post it. Then I can find out if what I'm missing can still be found and whether it will be reasonable. I still plan on testing it this weekend.
Thanks for all the replies,
Kevin
I just checked over the entire fridge...no tags/#'s anywhere. This leads me to believe that there may be more of the front missing than the door, since there are no hinges present either. The latch is still there, however. I'll try to get a picture soon and post it. Then I can find out if what I'm missing can still be found and whether it will be reasonable. I still plan on testing it this weekend.
Thanks for all the replies,
Kevin
while your at it, get the physical measurements (outside) and I'll see what I got on hand here. I assume yours is gas only??
Here are a couple pics of the fridge...if they seem odd, it's because it's sitting upside down, and I inverted the pictures so they're right side up...measurements are...width of cabinet..approx. 27"...depth of cabinet...21"...height of cabinet...39"...48" from top of cabinet to floor..
Here are a couple pics of the fridge...if they seem odd, it's because it's sitting upside down, and I inverted the pictures so they're right side up...measurements are...width of cabinet..approx. 27"...depth of cabinet...21"...height of cabinet...39"...48" from top of cabinet to floor..
Yeah, that looks similar to my 1960 Dometic refer. Looks like a Klixon valve model. I think Andy is right on, mine is also an M50a. The thread Anyone out there with refer as old as mine? has a bit of info you might be interested in.
Here are a couple pics of the fridge...if they seem odd, it's because it's sitting upside down, and I inverted the pictures so they're right side up...measurements are...width of cabinet..approx. 27"...depth of cabinet...21"...height of cabinet...39"...48" from top of cabinet to floor..
looks like a m50...gas only, and boy it's rough!!! I'll look tomorrow on what I got here thats complete..I don't think I could even reconstruct yours..
looks like a m50...gas only, and boy it's rough!!! I'll look tomorrow on what I got here thats complete..I don't think I could even reconstruct yours..
Feel free to give me a call if you'd like...864-723-5348 during the day, if you have anything.
Kevin
If it's made by "International Oil Burner" DO NOT attempt to light it.
Parts are not available and have not neen for almost 38 years. It was a "JUNKER" when brand new. The originals had over a dozen modifications to them, while still in warranty.
They have a HUGE tendency to explode.
Remove it, bury it, and replace it with a Suburban NT30SP.
Andy
Andy, would you be willing to elaborate on this problem? Was there a specific component or fault that caused them to explode? Thanks.
Andy, would you be willing to elaborate on this problem? Was there a specific component or fault that caused them to explode? Thanks.
Specific problem? You bet. Big piece of junk.
There were about 12 recalls or modifications on that "thing" while it was still in warranty.
The biggest problems was the gas valve would leak. Next, the burner log would rust away, while in warranty!!!!!! The pilot light would not stay on. The list goes on and on.
The result of this would make owners tinker with it. As soon as a small leak developed, which was very often, BOOM, as soon as a spark was found.
That furnace makes a great paper weight or boat anchor. Your choice.
Thanks Andy. Appreciate the info. I quickly looked up on the web the Suburban model you mentioned and got the impression the blower motor is 12V only. Is there a Suburban model that will run on both 110 and 12V?
BTW farmsc, I didn't mean to hjack your thread. But I really HAD to ask about this furnace.
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