I'm getting ready to put a new dometic in the Ambassador. It's 60" tall.
Originally the vent was in the wall cavity and only exited at the roof through a small 3" hole for the exhaust gases.
Of course these days they vent the enitre back of the fridge and not just the exhaust fumes.
So I will need to add some additional venting. I'm planning on adding a air intake in through the bottom of the floor by opening up the floor and belly pan and add some screening there.
On the exhaust side, there are basically two ideas that I know about.
Add a louvered panel slightly above the fridge height in the exterior wall. Pros, keeps it more period look and does not alter the *eyebrow* chimney vent I have now on the roof. Cons, cutting a large opening on the side of the trailer which will span over a vertical rib.
Or, buy a modern aluminum roof chimney. Pros, just altering a hole already on the roof. Cons. removing the orignal *eyebrow*, spaning the roof rib for the opening, having to build an interior chimney to curve the wall up to the ceiling.
Can't decide which way to go. I'm leaning toward the louverd vent on the side.
Tim, Something I have been thinking about on mine. Couldn't you just continue to use the wall cavity and install a couple fans at the top to pull the air through ? That way you wouldn't have to manufacture a curved vent and avoid cutting a big hole in the side of the coach.
I'm not sure what your vent looks like on top.
What I am talking about is using a later model vent top and instead of the 3" hole on top, you could make it more oblong.
I just finished doing mine. Here are a few pictures.
The original im my '59 was a Frigidaire, so it had a single louvered vent about waist level. Since this was useless as either a lower vent or an upper vent, I fabricated a door for it and turned it into a shallow, but wide and deep storage locker.
I put in a regular lower refrigerator vent that i got at CW. Not very complicated. The worst part was removing the paint so it matches the aluminum look.
The upper vent I got off eBay a few weeks. I don't know who it belonged to, but my thanks to whoever wrapped it.
I wasn't going to pay the big bucks for a cheesy looking fubeglass scoop, so I fabbed one out of aluminum. It's a little shallower than a fiberglass scoop because it uses the space between the skins. Dimensions of the air passage are 4.5" x 22".
I mounted the Dometic 2652 on a platform to keep a few inches clearance above the floor. It fit perfectly inside the old compartment.
Here's a few pictures. If I can help, give me a hollar. Love the VAP!
I'm getting ready to put a new dometic in the Ambassador. It's 60" tall.
Originally the vent was in the wall cavity and only exited at the roof through a small 3" hole for the exhaust gases.
Of course these days they vent the enitre back of the fridge and not just the exhaust fumes.
So I will need to add some additional venting. I'm planning on adding a air intake in through the bottom of the floor by opening up the floor and belly pan and add some screening there.
On the exhaust side, there are basically two ideas that I know about.
Add a louvered panel slightly above the fridge height in the exterior wall. Pros, keeps it more period look and does not alter the *eyebrow* chimney vent I have now on the roof. Cons, cutting a large opening on the side of the trailer which will span over a vertical rib.
Or, buy a modern aluminum roof chimney. Pros, just altering a hole already on the roof. Cons. removing the orignal *eyebrow*, spaning the roof rib for the opening, having to build an interior chimney to curve the wall up to the ceiling.
Can't decide which way to go. I'm leaning toward the louverd vent on the side.
Any helpful tips?
Tim.
If you use the louvered door, then you "must" totally waterproof the refrigerator cavity.
The original system is fine. You can if you wish, add a solar fan, but place the fan on top of the floor over the screening that covers the hole in the floor.
Why a solar fan? Daylight hours are the warmest, therefore moving more air accross the refer coils during the day is fine. At night, you don't need the fan. Being solar, solves the problem, in that it will not run at night.
For my 59 I did a vent low on the outside wall and one just above the fins on the outside wall. I added some small switched fans for hot days attached to the underside of the fins, pushing air up and out. After reviewing the installation guidelines it was the only way I could be sure I had enough air movement. You need to create a chimney for a draft. For the upper vent I used a whole saw and drilled two round openings then put a rectangle vent cover on the outside.
Fridge runs excellent even without the fans.
You want the space small enough that the fridge can heat it and create a draft.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
also, check out RV_Cool's invention...he sells a device that incorporates an air scoop and a computer fan that mounts to the back of the fridge...neat thing is that the fan is rigged with a heat-sensing switch, so it comes on automatically as the fridge warms up. So you don't have to remember to turn it on or off.
I have the wierdest vents I've ever seen on a vintage unit plus they're galvanized tin. I put in two computer muffin fans, one in the bottom of each roof vent, and put them on a switch for the warmer days, which seem to be quite a few here in Phoenix. Seems to do quite well except on the warmest days and when the curbside faces the western sun.
I have the wierdest vents I've ever seen on a vintage unit plus they're galvanized tin. I put in two computer muffin fans, one in the bottom of each roof vent, and put them on a switch for the warmer days, which seem to be quite a few here in Phoenix. Seems to do quite well except on the warmest days and when the curbside faces the western sun.
On several occasions I've had the opportunity to get the oblong style and passed them up after careful consideration. I like the uniqueness. So these are original for this time period? They sure look like they are from the inside. Thanks Andy.
On several occasions I've had the opportunity to get the oblong style and passed them up after careful consideration. I like the uniqueness. So these are original for this time period? They sure look like they are from the inside. Thanks Andy.
I too was thinking of Rv cools device which looks like it would work good .
I hate the idea really of cutting the outside skin .I have a door at the bottom
right where markdoanes large vent is ,and I could get it punched for louvers
and the door is original .my fridge is an RM660 that sits above the floor a
good 8 " also .Tim I think your floor idea is good ,with the venting holes to draw air up into the trailer and expell it thru the roof vent,via a fan or RVcools device that directs the air to cool the fridge .Right where markdoanes upper door is is where the dreaded flying open door damage was
on my trdwnd ,but ive got it at about 90% straightened out .Ive thought about a vent right there for my fridge ,still hate to cut it you know .
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