1958 Krefft Ventillation

[prairieschooner]

Getting ready for another Rally so it is time to finish the install of the original 1958 Krefft Refrigerator in our 1958 Traveler.
During the restoration the Refrigerator Cabinet was brought back to original so all of the clearances are as built in 1958. When looking online about the installation and ventilation it looks like I need to add baffles or something because the clearance recommended now are much tighter than original.
Basically the sides should have a clearance of 1/4", the top of 1/4" and the rear of 1".

I am curious why I shouldn't simply close in the back with a sheet of aluminum. This would force the air to flow across the coils but I am concerned if it need the 1".

Looking for advice from someone who has 1st hand experience, sure the newer units are relatively the same as these older units
thanks in advance

[57Vintage]

Not sure this will help, but the Krefft in my 58 Overlander has cabinet sides that go all the way to the wall. There is an access door at burner height. There is a louvered panel above it that lines up with the top of the bedroom window (blue tape). There is the oblong stack on the roof (already off the trailer). I have the stack if you need one. See photo.

Hope the frig parts worked out for you. I was curious if they made it down there ok. I'm about to put the shell back on and convert the Krefft shell to a modern 12 volt marine system. Good Luck

Harold

[57Vintage]

Forgot to mention, my Krefft sits 14-1/2" off the floor. There is a grilled section below that could draw air back to burner. Photo is the cabinet from the back showing the platform the frig sets on. Not very stout, considering how heavy the unit is. Hope this helps.

[prairieschooner]

Yes! all of the parts made it here just fine. Hope all is going well with your project!
Our Cabinets look very similar but there is a support piece that is also a baffle on the bottom of the cabinet. I'll try and get some pics today of that area. Considering that the Ammonia Absorption units are basically the same but these are almost 60 years old they didn't concern themselves with the baffling like the units of today have.

I just talked with a guy at The Norcold Guy and he was very helpful!:
http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-tec...s-the-venting/

From what I got out of our conversation the most important thing with the ventilation of the cooling unit is the Cooling Fins. We need to ensure that the airflow is directed to this area and then exhausted to ensure efficiency in extreme conditions. The Flue should also be directed to the vent to help cool off that area.
I have a short length of flexible automotive exhaust pipe that directs the flue to the vent to test. This appears to work out great so a more permanent solution is planned. The problem here is that the flue needs to be removed to install the heater element for 120 volt operation and then reattached to help remove the heat from the flue.
I am not sure yet but I may use a sheet of aluminum and simply cover the rear of the cabinet to ensure the airflow. I may even try to use an insulation blanket.
The Temperatures he stated were approximately 350 degrees for heated air at the flue and 130 degrees for the ambient air at the cooling unit.

But you are going to use a compressor so all of this doesn't matter to you just the removal of the heat from that type of system.
thanks again Harold (57Vintage)!

[steinVT]

Originally Posted by 57Vintage

I'm about to put the shell back on and convert the Krefft shell to a modern 12 volt marine system.

Harold

Which 12v marine system are you thinking about? I also have a Krefft in my 1956 Safari and wanted to do the same thing, but haven't yet found one that fits.

Thanks, Mark

[goransons]

Mark what model Krefft do you have?

[prairieschooner]

If I was to convert mine to a marine system I would look at an Adler Barbour. Looks like it became WAECO & now DOMETIC. They make systems that convert an icebox so it should be a simpler task of finding a system.

There are 2 types of systems a Cold Plate & a Holding Plate.

[steinVT]

Steve, thanks for the tip. A quick search showed West Marine has quite a selection of evaporators that should fit and I had spent time on their site before trying to find the same thing.

I have decided to see if I can get the old system working first, but it is nice to know I have options.

Thanks, Mark

[prairieschooner]

I found that my Krefft was pretty fast to get down to temp on electric. LPG was slower & consumes more LPG than the newer units.
I would bet that is because of the way ours are built. The area where the burner goes is straight up rather than the newer units where the burner heats a section that is horizontal.
Still rather have mine original just because & maybe also bragging rights.

If you decide to shop for a system try Defender as well.

[steinVT]

I started to take my Krefft apart last night to replace the 115v wiring. I was able to work the plug free, but the heater element seems to be locked in the vertical "boiler?". Anyone know a trick to get it out?

Regarding the original question about ventilation, I only know how my trailer was set up when I got it. As an engineer, I am not sure I understand it.

Starting at the floor, there was a large hole in the belly pan maybe 6"x 10" and another in the floor. The left side had a piece of aluminum riveted to the Krefft that extended to the wall. The right side was tight against a panel. There was a louvered vent to the outside about even with the condenser. A large hole was cut in the counter top 6"x 18" which was then attached to a large fabricated duct that proceeded up to the overhead cabinet. It then took over half of the cabinet and exited through the roof in one of the cool oblong stacks.

I believe it was originally a park model with only 115v operation because although the ducting looked professional, it looks like they cut the hole in the skin with a can opener, covered half of a window and then installed the stack with screws.

Hard to believe they could generate any draft in such a large duct. And why such a large hole in the floor?

Here's a picture of my original setup. I am thinking about downsizing the duct to get the window back and part of the cabinet back.

[goransons]

drooling! The element should just lift out, might take some careful work. I can only guess that there is some corrosion that has crusted it in place.... It may have initially been built as electric only and the Krefft put in as a dealer option or a late factory change, or just how it was. I can tell you on our 1955 that some of the factory holes through the skin were done with a nibbler, which basically looks like you cut a hole using a single hole punch or a million little drilled holes and broke it free. Quick and dirty if nobody was going to see it.

[StevieB]

Our 1954 Safari had two "wall" vents, one low and one high. There was no vent to the roof. Only the heater vented to the roof in that area. It worked very efficiently and the refrigerator had no cooling issues what so ever. If you would like to upgrade to a new refrigerator, I know of someone really, really, really wanting yours.
(Not Me - but someone by the name of Scott!)

[prairieschooner]

The Heater Element is lowered into the Flue section from the top. If it hasn't been apart for a long time there could be corrosion keeping it in.
Be VERY careful!! in trying to get it out so that you don't ruin the Element.

I am thinking it could be prudent to turn the unit upside down so that you could put something like WD40 or Liquid Wrench etc. into the flue or boiler section from below, that way any lubricant shouldn't get into the element. You should be able to look into that section from where the burner would be and maybe get something like a wooden broomstick or round stock under 1" diameter cut off square to help TAP it out. As I stated I would be careful not to damage the element.
Be careful about the Ventilation, I upgraded mine to more modern standards & included a small computer fan to insure fumes are evacuated when using LPG.

Here is a link to my pics of the element with some dimensions (Post 85);
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f106...-122678-7.html

[steinVT]

Steve,
I managed to get it out last night by doing exactly what you said. Turned it on its side, removed the burner and tapped it gently out with a aluminum tube. I see from reading "1958 Traveler" posts you have enclosed the back to help the draft. Makes a lot of sense to me. How well does it work?

StevieB,
that would have been the original configuration of mine. Have you used it with both 115v and propane? If with propane, is there a flue stack to get rid of the exhaust? Already talked to Scott, he has first option should I decide to bail!

Mark

[StevieB]

Mark,
Good Morning.
We used it on both 110 and LP. After a newer refrigerator was installed, a computer fan assisted with exhaust and cooling ventilation. Never an issue with cooling.
Regards,
StevieB

[prairieschooner]

So far works well. I have a Propane Fume Detector (near floor level), Carbon Monoxide Detector (at level of our heads while sleeping( & Smoke Alarm (near the overhead) installed with no Alarms sounding.
Here is a copy of a manual I found. And an Installation Manual discussing Ventilation.
Hope this helps