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Old 01-21-2007, 08:34 PM   #1
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12 Volts for Fridge?

When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
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Old 01-21-2007, 09:33 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
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It depends if the refrigerator has electronic controls, like a circut board and electric gas valve. If it's all manual, batteries won't have any effect.
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Old 01-22-2007, 12:27 AM   #3
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the problem I've found in my Caravel and Overlander is that the burner is not baffled sufficiently and blows out with slight wind (ambient or towing). I fabricated a small box with appropriate slots and crimps to fit around the bottom and sides of the burner. Problem solved--very reliable since then.

This was with a 30 year old model and a brand new model (neither has electronic controls). Another old model, which the new one replaced, had a hand-made baffle box installed, but I didn't take the hint until the new one blew out as soon as the trailer moved.

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Old 01-22-2007, 08:22 AM   #4
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Greg-


You don't mention the make, model or year of your frig. Let us know and I am sure someone can be more helpful for you. I know our new one uses very little amps when on LP. Just enough to run the board and ignite.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:24 AM   #5
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The fridge in my 75 does not require any 12 volts. A little propane and a spark makes it work!
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:15 AM   #6
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The fridge in my 75 does not require any 12 volts. A little propane and a spark makes it work!
Ahh, yes you are connected to your 12V system, contol board and ignitor both run off your 12V system. Or do you have to go outside an use a piazo ignitor?
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:43 PM   #7
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Sorry, I forgot some important information. The fridge is a Dometic 2804 (I think). I have the eyebrow panel in the TT with buttons for gas and A/C. Runs without any problems on electric. But with gas, I never know what it is going to do. I looked at the burner before and I think I remember that there is some type of shield around the flame, at the bottom of the flew. I had not turned the fridge on for over 12 months until yesterday. After I installed the new converter, meter, and batteries, I could hear the ignitor hit a few times and then bam, it lit and ran all day without any problems.

Thanks for all the help,

Greg
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Old 01-22-2007, 03:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Sorry, I forgot some important information. The fridge is a Dometic 2804 (I think). I have the eyebrow panel in the TT with buttons for gas and A/C.
Greg, Unless I am mistaken, there is also a couple of elec switches on the inside of the fridge door, up at the top, pointed downward. Look closely. If you do, they are for humidity control, both inside as well as outside. If they are turned on, they pull enough power, that, with bad batteries, they could indeed pull them down to the cut off point for the computerized unit.
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:48 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info. I'll look for those switches. I made a mistake about the model #. I actually have a Dometic 2611. Anything special about this model that would cause this problem?

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Old 01-22-2007, 06:24 PM   #10
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Ahh, yes you are connected to your 12V system, contol board and ignitor both run off your 12V system. Or do you have to go outside an use a piazo ignitor?
I do not think so. Model RM67 has no board. It has a piazo ignition. At least that is how I think it works. The manual shows no 12 volt connection.
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:33 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
When I have my fridge running on gas, how much or or important is the battery voltage? last year I had a terrible time keeping my fridge running in the gas mode. It could run for several hours or just a few minutes. I never knew what to expect.

A few days ago I was installing a new converter and Trimetric meter. I discovered that my batteries were shot. So, now I have my new coverter, meter, and 2 new size 31 Trojan batteries. When I had the old batteries tested under a load, they would fall to 10 volts. Could the bad batteries been my problem?

Greg
85 Sovereign 25'
Greg,
I would say good possibility...if your fridge requires the twelve volts. I know the replacement unit in mine is very sensitive to low voltage. 11.75 volts and it quits on the spot. FWIW my fridge is a Norcold that was installed in 2000, they had to add a 12v line to feed it because the old one did not require it.

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Old 01-22-2007, 06:51 PM   #12
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Greg,
I have the Dometic RM2620 in my 25' and it was a replacement. If you have buttons or switches which have ON/OFF, GAS/ELECTRIC/AUTO, a button for increasing or decreasing coldness and small lights to let you know what your fridge is doing then that panel uses 12 v. DC.
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:19 PM   #13
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Craig,

Yours sounds almost identical to mine. So does this mean that the fridge, when in the gas mode is very sensitive to battery condition?
Hopefully, with the new system I won't have the trouble I had with the previous set up.

Greg
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:40 PM   #14
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Greg,
10.5 volts is considered 0% charged and 11.31 volts is considered 10% charged. You batteries were toast and I'd say they were the reason for your poor functioning refrigerator.
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