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Old 01-23-2007, 09:46 AM   #15
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Thanks again to everybodys input. I would assume that if the fridge is working for a full day in the gas mode, then there is no reason to take it to a repair shop to have the fridge looked at.

Greg
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Old 01-23-2007, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 85Sovereign
Thanks again to everybodys input. I would assume that if the fridge is working for a full day in the gas mode, then there is no reason to take it to a repair shop to have the fridge looked at.

Greg
I'd say your assumption is correct but I've been proven wrong before. Cross your fingers and if the fridge works for the entire day then you are good to go.
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:58 PM   #17
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We tested it for the last 24 hours. Not one problem. I think I have the fridge issue fixed.

Thanks again to everyone!!!
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Old 01-25-2007, 02:35 PM   #18
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Battery power - How important to Refrigerator?

I have an '86 Sovereign and we likely have about the same model dometic refrigerator. Mine wants to find Battery power, gas, and 120 volt power. It decides on what to use and makes a choice. It will choose gas when the gas valve is on. The gas system is the most rapid in it's ability to do the cooling. I picked this up this past summer from an RV repair shop out West. They wanted it on gas to check the system and specifically requested it be on gas.

I've never tried to run the regrigerator without a battery. My belief is it wouldn't because so much of it is controlled by 12 volt current. My belief is that you've found your problem when you found the week batteries. In the world of mechanics, if you find a bonified problem is the likely source of the problem. Very seldom do more than one bite at a time.

I've never experienced what you describe except I've had the Off/On switch fail to remain in the on position and the green light told the story soon enough.

William_Mc
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:34 PM   #19
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William, do you have the 3 way fridge: 12 v., 110 v., gas? The 12 v. will run those batteries down in nothing flat and is really designed to run while your TV is towing to/from your destination. My Dometic is only a 2 way and 85Sovereign's is too.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:35 PM   #20
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I just had the same problem. I have a 2008 International 23 CCD. The Freg is a DOMESTIC 2852. My batteries have been fading faster latetly and as soon as the batteries dropped off the gas is turned off. totally frustating since it defeats the purpose in my opinion. I would hook up to the truck and the gas would fire up instantly. Is there a way to override the electric control mechanism?
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:48 PM   #21
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I just had the same problem. I have a 2008 International 23 CCD. The Freg is a DOMESTIC 2852. My batteries have been fading faster latetly and as soon as the batteries dropped off the gas is turned off. totally frustating since it defeats the purpose in my opinion. I would hook up to the truck and the gas would fire up instantly. Is there a way to override the electric control mechanism?
New Battery.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:06 PM   #22
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Batteries fading faster

Masonair, Please do not take this wrong, however, it appears you are expecting your batteries as well as your refridgerator to do things they are not expected to do.
Educating yourself on these two very unique systems can help you understand their 'nonperformance'.
Your batteries, if new when the trailer was purchased should not be 'bad' and therefore should not need to be replaced. Most likely they still have much life left in them provided you have not run them to 20% several times. Proper maintaining of the batteries will result in proper performance. Remember, they are there to perform only the function they are built for and capable of, not what you necessarily expect them to.
As for the fridge, a fridge will never operate without some kind of sensing function to tell the unit when to operate. That sensing function comes from electricity. These fridges have computerized controls, another electrically run function. These fridges are not purely mechanical.
Airstreams are not meant to run weeks or more unattached to power.
Some Google or Airforums searches can provide more than enough technical information to explain the why's in full.
Here's wishing you many, many weeks and many trips of pure enjoyment in your Airstream!
jerry
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:09 AM   #23
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Well ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelbird312 View Post
As for the fridge, a fridge will never operate without some kind of sensing function to tell the unit when to operate. That sensing function comes from electricity. These fridges have computerized controls, another electrically run function. These fridges are not purely mechanical. ... Airstreams are not meant to run weeks or more unattached to power.
I agree with your analysis, except for one thing; some of the older models are "purely mechanical" or at least do NOT have electric thermostats, cricuit board, igniters, etc. and DO NOT need electricity to function. That was precisely the tenor of much of the discussion dating back to 2007, above. I spend several weeks every year refrigerating my food (and drink!) in one that has NO electrical connection.

And there are also some models that will run on 120v, propane, OR 12volt. I have no personal experience with any of the "three-way" units, but from talking to those who do, I've learned that they have a pretty hefty current draw, so that unless you're actively towing and thus are supplying power from the tow vehicle's alternator or have a big solar array, this doesn't work too well for very long. It may be fine while in transit. My brother has a three-way and a biggish solar array and LOTS of battery capacity on a big houseboat, and he still always runs his off propane.
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:36 PM   #24
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Airsdream, remember my comments were directed to the owner of a 2008 Airstream, and his specific concerns, not as a blanket statement covering every type refridgeration unit available. If his is the original unit, it is a two way;electric or LP. Those units are computer board controlled (electricity required). If running on straight LP, even then, they are computer controlled. Prior to these type controls, the LP units had pilot lights that stayed lit all the time, and had thermal sensors that called for the unit to fire off that pilot, heat the unit, and produce the desired cooling. They are indeed mechanical, and will operate many days/weeks with no electricity.
My comments were to advise this owner that the thoughts of his units perceived failure was likely due to not knowing what the systems could actually produce or how they operate.
Again I say that computer controlled units MUST have electricity (12 volt) supplied to operate.
Sorry for the confusion.
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