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Old 08-25-2013, 09:48 AM   #81
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Great progress! Are you going to drill them out and replace them with buck rivets?
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:36 PM   #82
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1972 23' Safari
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Great progress! Are you going to drill them out and replace them with buck rivets?
we will probably just seal the seams with more Parbond / vulkum.

In the picture you can see a big black blob, not sure what it is, there is an extra hole out side that was filled with what ever that stuff is, feels like hard plastic. We will see if we can buck rivet that hole if it is the right size.

We did another sheet of insulation today. I need to remove all the Vulkum around the tail lights on the in side, then I can figure out how I will do the LED's before we insulate the rear portion.
thanks David and Pam
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:28 PM   #83
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Y'all are doing great on your project! Nice to see another trailer being saved.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:01 PM   #84
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Y'all are doing great on your project! Nice to see another trailer being saved.
Saved yes we paid scrap price to the PO. He was going to scrap it, he really didn't want to he hoped someone would fix it up.

At first when we looked at it The outside looked OK, the inside was stinky moldy mildew smell. We beat another couple who kept calling the PO trying to beat us to purchase it, we were the first caller and he set it up for us to see it first. They showed up just as we came out of the inside. I asked Pam what she thought. She said she was going to buy it. She asked what I thought and I told her, we could either clean it up a bit and try and sell it for a few extra bucks or take three years to fix it up the way she wanted. As the other couple came out of the inside the PO asked us, "do you want it?" Pam said yes. The other couple not saying a word got in their car slammed the doors and peeled out throwing gravel.

So here we are today.
Oh yeah we were able to get the LED tail lights in place today .
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:56 PM   #85
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here are a couple pictures of the new LED tail lights.

I have a question,

The old cans only have one (backup) and two wires (tail/brake).

there are two (backup) and three (tail/brake),in the new LED's, my guess is to ground them to the frame or near bye? We used Vulcum black polyurethane sealant to mount them in the holes with the cans out they are water proof and not going anywhere.

thanks
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:04 PM   #86
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Where did you get the lights? I need some for my 1970.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:06 AM   #87
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1972 23' Safari
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trvparts.com has them. I repurposed some from one of the busses where I worked. Part of housing was cracked and I put innards in airstream housing. MARTA switched to LED's on all old busses. I am impressed by the work you are getting done. I have a new water heater waiting to go in my 72 23 foot Safari. Will use pex for pipes that went under shower floor. I have trouble squatting down. One knee replaced and the other one bothers me. Old age is hell. HA HA HA. Larry
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:47 AM   #88
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Where did you get the lights? I need some for my 1970.
I got my LED tail lights from Inland, on sale.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #89
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update:

we have leaks in the rear upper curb side panel that was installed with Olympic rivets, I showed pics in an earlier post.. We stopped the insulation for now till we can remove the Olympic rivets and buck rivet the seams. I'm sure that will take care of the leaking seam.
We decided to build some scaffolding to seal the vents and put in a fantastic fan. We went to HD today and bought a few 2x4's, I hope it will make working up on top a bit easier than leaning off a ladder. I have sealed the plumbing vent stacks and the galley vent, no more leaks in those locations.
I will post some pictures later as we do more.
Thanks,
David and Pam
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:49 PM   #90
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I bought my new LED tails from led4rv. Simple one wire for the reverse and 2 wires for the turn/brake. They look great and were very easy to install in my original pots (POR'd and painted the pots. Didn't require any additional grounding.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:29 PM   #91
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Today we built some scaffolding to access the roof. We were able to remove the front vent and replace it with a fantastic fan. Here are a few pictures, you can see we don't have much room on the sides of the trailer, one side is a fence the other is the house. The temporary scaffold works good, can work on the roof without worrying about dent or slipping off. Pam was a little nervous about being up there but if held me no problem.

The picture of the fantastic fan is just a dry run after I squared off the hole. Next is to re-seal the other two vents and buck rivet the rear upper curbside end piece. Big rain forecast for this weekend so it might be a few day till we get on to those jobs.
thanks

Pam and David
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:44 PM   #92
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making progress on the sealing the roof vents. I also removed the air conditioner shroud found a hornets nest and got stung. There was also enough compost under the air conditioner fan to start a small garden So we had to decide are we going to save the old air conditioner or get a new one? after looking it over we decided to remove the old and go with a new one at some point in the future. Here are a few pictures some of the old air conditioner and some of it gutted.
thanks D & P
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:31 PM   #93
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Vent springs home made

We needed a couple torsion springs for the old vents we were able to salvage one from the vent we removed. I went to the local hardware store got some music wire for 2 bucks made me a jig and made a couple torsion spring. Was able to figure them out through trial and error. The finished springs work great.

We are just about finished with sealing the top. We were able to get the first section of the Olympic rivets replaced with buck rivets on the rear upper curb side panel, will finish the rest this week.

After that we will be able to finish the insulation get the rear bath end cap in place and start replacing the interior skins.

here are a few pics of my homemade springs and the jig I made out of a piece of scrap wood and couple of old screws and a lag screw. I did have gloves and safety glasses on in case the spring decided to go flying. the one on the left is the original.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:38 PM   #94
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I need to do this for the kitchen sidewall exhaust vent! So did you just ask for music wire? Why would this be in a hardware store?

Thanks!
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:05 PM   #95
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I need to do this for the kitchen sidewall exhaust vent! So did you just ask for music wire? Why would this be in a hardware store?

Thanks!
yes true value. used for all kinds of hobbies and making torsion springs. I originally went to see if they had it and they did. The guys weren't sure about using it for torsion springs but I did research on Google and music wire is used for torsion springs.
My first attempts were failures, but i put another screw in the wood helped keep the wire tight as i held it close to the bigger lag wood screw as I wound it around three and a half times. good luck, and be careful, making springs can be dangerous.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:10 PM   #96
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almost done with the Rmax insulation need to get one more sheet to finish, then we will be putting the rear bath end cap back in place and the interior walls. Just realized its been one year tomorrow that Pam bought Olney. I never thought when we started this last year we would be this far, my original guess was three years. At this pace we might have an aluminum tent by next summer.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:29 PM   #97
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we finished the insulation, we have the end caps in place and started the interior walls with the two upper long pieces in place. Feels like we are making some progress again but I know its still a long ways till we are rolling.
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:02 PM   #98
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almost finished with the interior walls. We reinforced the outer wheel well plastics with fiberglass where it had cracked. Here is a picture of Pam placing the bubble insulation between the wheel well pieces.
Next is to get some XIM plastic and vinyl primer for the front ABS cap so it can be painted.

Thanks,
David and Pam
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:06 PM   #99
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we found a good deal on Craigs list on mattresses for the twin bunks. We got two for $40. Bought them from some very nice people Joyce and Spencer, thanks

We will probably top the two mattresses with another foam mattress for extra comfort. I might make the bunks a bit longer by adding a few inches because I'm an inch longer than the standard bunk.

been wiring the plug ins and I have a new invert-er and fuse box on the way. Been a bit cold here at night, we have a small heater that heats up the trailer in about five minutes
Thanks, David and Pam
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Old 11-24-2013, 05:15 PM   #100
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a few pictures I wired in the new front seven pin receptacle today and Pam attached the front piece of interior wall a few pics
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