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Old 04-14-2013, 08:12 AM   #61
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1972 23' Safari
Camas , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony S View Post
Nice work.

I was curious do you know what the red wire running down the street side of the trailer in the frame is for?

Keep up the good work.

Tony
those red wires are the electric brake wires. I am waiting to attach them after I put the belly pan back on. I have to check them to see if all is OK and put on a new break away switch.
When we had the trailer towed the guy thought the brakes didn't work he was right the PO had cut the wires to the brakes.
thanks,
David and Pam
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:12 PM   #62
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thankyou Zeppelinium

Pam and I have started replacing the worn out gaskets on the windows. We weren't sure what we had to do to the front window condensation. We had taken the window to a local window specialist and he quoted us around $650. . I did a little research. A big thankyou to Zeppelinium for showing us the way. Was easy removing the plexiglass interior piece only 14 little screws.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...dow-62626.html

Pam is out in the Garage now cleaning up the foam tape and removing the old gasket marterial fro the frame. I have a couple pictures.

Also our fabricator / welder called the main frame pieces will be finished today for the rear end fix. I ordered another cross member that will be here on monday along with a new coupler so that work should be done soon. Then on to the subfloor install.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:12 PM   #63
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windows and slight shell lift

Pam has been busy cleaning up the old window gaskets and replacing new gaskets.

The front window will not go back in the window hanger or curved lip keeps binding. I think I'm going to order a new one and replace the old on the window we have spent way to much time trying to get it in place. Everything looks OK but when it gows just past horizontal it binds up on one side. After the first try I had to replace four rivets. I'm sure we will get it at some point maybe a new piece will work.

I spent yesterday leveling the frame and lifting the shell a few inchs in the rear. Friday I have the welder coming to fix the frame nad put in the 2 new cross members.
You can see in the pictures I put a piece of plwood on the frame and used a floor jac with a couple 2 x 4 's to lift a few inchs and place a couple jack stands to hold it till the frame is fixed. Seems to be working. After the frame is fixed I will look into a new rear hold down plate.
thanks Pam and David
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:39 PM   #64
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We hired a welder fabricator to fix the rear end frame. He did a good job. He made two main frame pieces and added the two cross members. Now we can move on to the floor.
We had much difficulty with the front window, again after research we got it in place. Not sure if this is the reason it went in but I read to spray some sillicon spray on the hinge and it went in this time.

We have been scraping off the 40 year old gaskets on all the windows and replacing with new. One more to do.

Never thought I would be this far by now. All this work and we have just started.
Thanks,
Pam and David
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:37 PM   #65
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finished the new gaskets on all the windows.

I did get the rear hold down plate out. It was rusted out almost as bad as the rear cross member. I need to find somwhere to get a new piece. I will go with 14 ga steel and use somthing between the aluminum and the steel. I've done some research and will figure out something better than the original set up in the rear area. I now need to find someone with a brake that can do the bend for me once I get the piece I need.
another thing we had the welder weld on a new coupler. Slight problem the bottom piece with a hole for the jack did not line up with the new hole in the top coupler. I had him cut out the front of the plate to the hole for a temp fix. The welder said he would keep an eye out for a scrap piece to weld on with a new hole cut in.
thanks David and Pam
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:57 PM   #66
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We got the new plywood for the floor. Today I cut out the front piece and epoxied the top and edges. After I cut the plywood we placed it in on top of the frame. This is a shell on replacement, hope all goes well.

a few pics of the sillicone that was around all the windows

thanks, David and Pam
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:53 PM   #67
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That looks like polyurethane sealant, which is correct. Much easier to deal with than silicon.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:46 PM   #68
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We got the front subfloor piece in today. Not to bad I was able to hamer it into place with a 2x4 block used on the edge. Fit is nice I have the next sheet cut and waiting for the epoxy to set / dry.

I was wondering if the rounded curves in the rear are the same as the front? I held up the portion cut away from the front and it looked to be a perfect match. I was hoping it was because the rear was rotted out and I have no template, was going to have to make one.

thanks, David and Pam
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:46 PM   #69
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Have enjoyed reading as well as seeing the progress the two of you are making on your/Pam's Safari. Nice to see a couple working on a project this size together. And I agree with those who have asked you to maintain a single thread for both the tear down, repairs and re-construction. It makes it easier for those of us who are following your progress, as well as for someone who will come after you and benefit from your experience. Keep up the good work.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:37 AM   #70
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The subfloor instalation is almost complete. We installed the rear piece in yesterday. I was able to just slide it in from the rear after we jacked up the rear shell a tiny bit. After the piece was in we found it to be a little bit to long so we had to scribe the curves and re-cut to fit. I then re-epoxied the fresh cut edges. After the new cut it fit perfect and was able to get the rear hold down in place.
We have one piece left just in front of the rear piece and the floor will be in place. I will then start installing the elevator bolts. I have epoxied the plywood subfloor bottom side and bottom and top on the end pieces. I also did two coats of epoxy paint on the top side. Might be over done but should be water resistant if not waterproof. I will post some pictures later.
thanks,
Pam and David
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Old 06-01-2013, 01:14 PM   #71
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We got the elevator bolts in place yesterday and today. The floor feels solid once bolted in place.

This morning we were up early did not want to disturb the neighboors so we installed the all new window three notched holders.

Tomorrow we plan to secure all the electrical wires, the old sticky plastic holders are all falling with no interior walls to suport them. As the day warms the old sticky stuff just give out its old and just crumbles away.

A few more pictures

thanks David and Pam
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Old 06-02-2013, 12:59 PM   #72
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Looking good

I have been working on a 71 GT, check out my thread below
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:55 AM   #73
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Stockbridge , Georgia
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I have a 72 23 foot Safari. Have had it for 6 years. Pipes under bathroom had to be replaced. Otherwise it was in great shape. Fantastic vent is super. Going to use pex to replace some other pipes. Seems like it was kept indoors most of its life. HAve fun.
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:55 AM   #74
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Pam and I have been busy with grandsons soccer, out of town games. I hope to get back to putting more time in on the Safari.
I need to start working on the top. The drain vents have been a real PITA. All the old screws are siezed and nothing seems to work getting them out. I tried drilling them out, those screws must be some of the hardest steel made. I spent way to much time on the first one I gave up and was able to get a hack saw under the old rotted out rubber gasket. I did scratch the aluminum up there, I hope I can buff them out. Two more to go I'm think I will have to hack those out also unless someone know a better way.
The plan is I'm going to patch up the center vent and old TV antena and replace the front and rear vents. We were thinking of a different type of drain vent covers but still not sure.
After that its on to insulating walls and floor and then belly pan.
Progress is slow but I'm further along than I could have imagined at the start.
D & P
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:06 PM   #75
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Really nice work. My hat goes off to the two of you.

Here is the kitchen update we did on our 73/23.... - Photo Gallery
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:51 PM   #76
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Pam and I did our first buck riveting today on the rear skin to rear hold down plate, kinda fun. Pam was on the inside with the bucking bar I was on the outside with the riveting gun every rivet looks as good as factory, all smiles.
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Old 06-22-2013, 02:01 AM   #77
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Ya'll are moving right along. I need to repair some of my water pipes. Had the original shag carpet in it. Put in wood floor instead. New AC and replaced fridge with ac only model. RV fridge would take all of a social security check. Just bought 2002 suburban to pull it with. Much better than old tow vehicle. Keep the pix coming.
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:56 AM   #78
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Update:
been awhile but this morning I started to attach the street side out side portion of the belly pan, its is attached at the moment with clecos waiting for Pam to get home from work so we can buck rivet.

I also had to re-do the battery box, it needed to be re- riveted it was just loose and most of the original rivets had failed, pulled out or just loose. Much better now. I still need to weather strip the door on it.

I hope to get more time in on the project but work will be very busy in the next couple months so I will just do a bit here and there till I can free up more time.

With the inside walls out and the days warm the outside skin gets so hot the wiring in the front is hanging down. We had used some sticky holders the wires zip tied to, but the aluminum gets so hot the sticky can't hold just gives up, I guess we will just have to deal with it till it cools down and we start the inside insulation and interior aluminum install.
thanks, David and Pam
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Old 08-10-2013, 03:09 PM   #79
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insulation started

we started on the interior insulation today. We are going with Rmax pretty easy to work with. Pam has been feeling like we have not made much progress this summer, but with grandson soccer tournaments and I had a five week severe tooth ache that ended with two root canals, finally no more pain, we were able to make some progress. Pam is smiling again. here are a few pics.

thanks David and Pam
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:28 PM   #80
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rear end cap removed

Today Pam did more insulation and we removed the rear fiberglass end cap. Now all the old pink smelly stuff is gone.

It looks like the rear upper curb side aluminum pieces was replaced. All of the panels have nice buck rivets except the one under the end cap. I'm not sure but I think the rivets are Olympic rivets, they have three prongs on the back side.

There are leaks along these seams and I could see daylight through one big blob of vulkum. I have a few pictures you can see the Olympic rivet seams and the nice original buck rivet seams. My guess is the PO did it that way because it was just easier to do the Olympic rivets from the outside and not have to tear into the interior.
Now I have access to the rear tail lights and I can install LED's. and we can continue with the insulation.
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