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Old 08-09-2002, 11:44 AM   #1
jeanarlene
 
1971 23' Safari
Lake Ann , Michigan
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 44
Unhappy Front floor area and rebuilding dresser

Hello Folks,
I've been busy cleaning Airabelle and am ready to get back to the discussion about converting my front couch to a dinette. I've decided to stay with the couch idea as the space isn't big enough for dinette banquettes which allow you to stretch out unless you convert them to a bed. I would need a Tradewind or Ambassador to have enough space to do that. Darn. The previous owner had removed the couch and crammed it into the bedroom opposite the double there. I've hired a handyman (I'm no carpenter) to build a frame to put it back in front. Once we tore out all the carpeting we discovered the area where the couch was shows signs of old water damage. It's long dried out and we checked the exterior in that area and it shows caulking. We believe the damage was contained although we don't know what caused a leak in that area and now we plan to seal the floor with penetrating epoxy glue before laying tiles. In my previous 71 Safari the floor under the couch could be raised up as there was a tank under there. In this one the floor is nailed down.
What is under the floor under your front couches? I don't want to make the area inaccessible if there's something there that needs to be got at.
Next question. I need a schematic or a good description of how to build the dresser and closet back in across from the double bed in the mid-bedroom. I have the framework for the dresser and the closet door but wonder how to assemble them. In that area there is a water heater (I'm guessing) and a small tank. The manual doesn't give the layyout or pictures of it.
All advice will be appreciated. I want to get this rig on the road before the snow flies.
Jeanne
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Old 08-09-2002, 01:26 PM   #2
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Your best bet on the instructions for rebuilding is to get a service manual. It has all of the diagrams and such to explain your pile-o-parts.

As to what is under the floor in front, there is usally nothing but insulation, unless you have a spare tire storage system. If you have a spare tire stored here it will be accessable from under the outside front of the trailer, in either case there is no need to worry about the couch re-install.
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Old 08-09-2002, 05:04 PM   #3
jeanarlene
 
1971 23' Safari
Lake Ann , Michigan
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Brett,
Where does one get a service manual? I have the 71 Safari manual but it doesn't have pictures of the layout. So a service manual is something different?
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Old 08-09-2002, 08:16 PM   #4
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The service manual will have all of the parts that make up your trailer in exploded diagrams that show you how(basically) it all fits together. There are also wiring diagrams, plumbing layouts and troubleshooting instructions on most of the appliances that are more through than the owners manual. The best thing is there are step by step instructions on many of the dissassembly procedures so you can take it apart with confidence.

There is one sure place to get a manual. Under the vendors forum there is a place called secretarial services that has manuals for almost all models. Another option is to watch ebay. They come up from time to time.
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Old 08-09-2002, 10:28 PM   #5
jeanarlene
 
1971 23' Safari
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Thank you, Brett. I'll contact the place in Ohio to see if they have a service manual for a 71 Safari.
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Old 09-04-2002, 09:08 AM   #6
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Cool Manuals

Jean I have manuals for a 70 Safari the blue one that came with the stream I would be more than happy to scan them for you
if you like. I am looking for a a sofa bed to fit in my stream at the moment and try to figure out the heating options i need a new furnace or some kinda heater to put in in it. Do you have any pics of your stream?

Scott
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Old 09-04-2002, 01:08 PM   #7
jeanarlene
 
1971 23' Safari
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'71 Safari layout

Hi Scotti,
Yes, I have the blue cover manual which originally came with the trailer. It doesn't show the layout for the dresser and closet. If you have that in your manual, I'd appreciate your scanning it to me. I don't have pictures of my 'stream but realize I should take some during the rennovation. As for heating--my old Suburban is shot and the majority of opinions say not to try to bring it to life as there are hazards with old gas furnances. I plan to get an Olympic Wave catalytic heater. They're on sale now at Camping World. They don't require an elecrtrical hookup to operate so can be used when dry camping. In the space where the old furnace was I plan to put the microwave once I'm assured there's enough ventilation.

Jeanne
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Old 09-04-2002, 05:44 PM   #8
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Jeanne,
I bought a Wave 6 from CW last year and installed it where an older model had been (see my photos). Between it and my Suburban furnace, I have been warm while dry camping. I set the thermostat for the furnace in the 60's and run the Wave 6 on low or medium which saves the batteries from being run down. I also use a 5 watt solar panel attached to the battery system to charge the batteries during the day when I have turned the furnace off. Make sure that you leave a vent cracked for ventilation. While the catalytics do not give off fumes, they do consume oxygen.

Almost forgot, I also have a heat strip in my Armstrong AC but have not used it yet since most of my camping has been from September until late November and electricity is not available.
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'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
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265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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Old 09-04-2002, 10:33 PM   #9
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Jeanne,

You will need to be careful regarding the fumes as Craig mentioned. There are some heaters that exaust thru a vent tube so you can keep the trailer closded, but I do not think the on at CW is that type.

One other thing you want to be aware of is that without the use of the forced air furnace you have to be additionally aware of weather. The tanks and plumbing will not freeze if using the furnace, but can freeze if you only heat the inside of the trailer. Just a word of caution
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Old 09-05-2002, 11:00 AM   #10
jeanarlene
 
1971 23' Safari
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Furnace and Catalytic Heater

Brett,
I'm not sure that the furnace would be adequate to keep the tanks and pipes from freezing. Wouldn't that depend on whether the heating ducts are vented to the belly? My heating duct is lying on the floor in the bedroom area. I need more info about this.

Jeanne
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Old 09-05-2002, 12:11 PM   #11
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Jeanne,
Your furnace system should have round flexible ducting into the belly of your trailer. Your service manual when it arrives should show you the main duct work as well as the flexible ducting and the areas it extends to. Mine for example is readily visible under my kitchen cabinet and goes down near the fresh water tank. Another is visible near the rear of my trailer when I open a side compartment. Brett is correct in that running the furnace will keep the underfloor area temperatures up enough to prevent freezing. They also make electrical mats that can be secured to the bottom of fresh, gray and black water tanks to prevent freezing. Some of the members of this forum are more familiar with these than I am. By the way, check www.rvsolarelectric.com for a price on the Olympian Wave 6. It may be cheaper than CW. If you expect severe cold weather, I would want the furnace working in conjunction with either the catalytic or the heatstrip of the AC if you have one. Any outside hoses/filters must be insulated and I would look at adding additional insulation to areas where pipes may not be protected as much as they should be.
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AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
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