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Old 04-17-2019, 07:50 AM   #1
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1972 23' Safari
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Bertha Restoration - 1972 Twin Axle Safari

Bertha is a trailer with a lot of potential . . . she also needs a lot of work.



So far we've removed the carpet and front gaucho to better access the subfloor.



Subfloor has significant issues in spots and the belly pan is full of wet insulation and yard trash, so this weekend we removed a large section of belly pan to start cleaning her up.



The very rear of the trailer frame has significant rot and will need repair (more on that later). We also plan to replace the entire subfloor. New axles are on order, as well as a carport to store Bertha under. We hope to remove some more belly pan this weekend, and I'll update this thread as time allows. I also have a blog with a few more pictures and color commentary - https://adventuresinaluminum.blogspot.com/ Any recommendations as we go along are welcome.Thanks!


Lydia


Old Yesterday, 08:10 PM
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Old 04-18-2019, 07:08 AM   #2
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Build thee a gantry. You will need it when you separate the frame and shell.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:24 AM   #3
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Build thee a gantry. You will need it when you separate the frame and shell.

Oh yes, gantry method for sure, but I think we have a cheat. We have two 40 foot HC shipping containers sitting 12 feet apart. It's where we park our tractor and we always meant to put a roof over it, but it's open space at the moment. A simple structure made of lifted 4x4s laid across the tops of the containers should work well for removing the shell . . . or at least that's the plan


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Old 04-18-2019, 09:54 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Wildwoman69 View Post
We have two 40 foot HC shipping containers sitting 12 feet apart. It's where we park our tractor and we always meant to put a roof over it, but it's open space at the moment. A simple structure made of lifted 4x4s laid across the tops of the containers should work well for removing the shell . . . or at least that's the plan

Perfect! If you've got any 12ft. steel I-beams laying around (sounds like you've got a "farm situation"), even better!


You shouldn't even need a "structure" if the shipping containers are high enough (just two crossbeams laid across that you can hang chains from). Otherwise, even just some cinder blocks would likely do to lift the crossbeams higher.


Good luck! And get ready for it to take a lot longer than you expect! (but it'll be worth it!!!!)


And since you're going "full bore" on the project with a complete floor replacement and framework, I'll plant the seed of thinking about radiant heat. I used to think it was a bad idea (road vibration and hydronics not mixing), but I have changed my tune. After a lot of winter camping, I have come to believe that a warm floor that can also keep tanks from freezing is definitely something to consider! And though they are pricey, you can get a heating unit that will do hot water for sinks/shower, heated fluid for the radiant heat, and some even have a small forced air unit for occasional *quick* heat to the cabin.
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:29 PM   #5
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Bertha Restoration - 1972 Twin Axle Safari

Please don’t use ‘cinder blocks’ to support heavy loads. They can easily crush and drop stuff on you. They are intended only for masonry walls.

Wood blocks or cribbing is safer if you need to shim something up.
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:56 PM   #6
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1972 23' Safari
Clarkton , North Carolina
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Originally Posted by kidjedi View Post
Perfect! If you've got any 12ft. steel I-beams laying around (sounds like you've got a "farm situation"), even better!


You shouldn't even need a "structure" if the shipping containers are high enough (just two crossbeams laid across that you can hang chains from). Otherwise, even just some cinder blocks would likely do to lift the crossbeams higher.


Good luck! And get ready for it to take a lot longer than you expect! (but it'll be worth it!!!!)


And since you're going "full bore" on the project with a complete floor replacement and framework, I'll plant the seed of thinking about radiant heat. I used to think it was a bad idea (road vibration and hydronics not mixing), but I have changed my tune. After a lot of winter camping, I have come to believe that a warm floor that can also keep tanks from freezing is definitely something to consider! And though they are pricey, you can get a heating unit that will do hot water for sinks/shower, heated fluid for the radiant heat, and some even have a small forced air unit for occasional *quick* heat to the cabin.

I'll have to look into the radiant heat option. It does sound nice and I hate being cold! Always on the lookout for an I-beam or two, but haven't found any yet. Hubby says a couple of 2x6s screwed together will have to suffice for our cross members. The containers sit on concrete blocks and max out at 10'2". The trailer appears to be 9 feet total (once the AC is gone). I'm thinking we'll need to lift the beams a bit to get good clearance, but I don't think it with be too hard to manage. Thanks for all the great suggestions folks

Lydia
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