Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-14-2016, 04:14 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
I found most of the rear floor. It could use replacement. I guess it needs the entire sheet of plywood, as it's kind of wet under the water heater area. I also have to repair the frame...and figure out the new holding tank situation. Might do a single tank about 26 gallon, across the back. Use a normal height toilet since there would be no tank above the floor, and perhaps set a new shower pan up a couple inches to make sure it can drain when the tank gets kind of full. Any suggestions?

__________________

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2016, 08:48 PM   #16
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Did some more taking apart. I started removing the inner vinyl clad panels, and found plenty of rodent homes in the insulation...so it's all coming out. I got about half done removing panels.

Today I removed the rear floor, so I can assess the frame situation, and start fixing it. Of course, the holding tank decision needs to be made some time soon, because it might affect how I rebuild the rear frame. I was looking at a lot of tank sizes, and found one that's 32 wide, 54 long, end drain, 3.5" tall at the far end, 6" tall at the drain end (Ameri-Kart H562). I could replace the second to rear cross member with a piece of 2" square tubing, and set the tank under this. A piece of angle bolted to the lower frame flange would support each long edge of the tank. This would put the top of the tank two inches below the floor, so there might be room to put the shower trap in and have it enter the top of the tank. The shower would still have to be raised a bit, though?

Also thinking about the shape and location of the shower, it would be nice to make a pan that is about 36" long, 24" wide, contoured to fit the curved corner. I expect fiberglass would work for this, although it would take some learning to figure out how to make or modify a pan like this. I guess google can find anything, eh?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...pan-72422.html

This is pretty much what I have in mind.
__________________

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2016, 06:04 AM   #17
4 Rivet Member
 
SuzyHomemakr's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 454
Ack! I replied to the original thread instead of this one. Rather than re-post it, here's the link: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ml#post1877148
SuzyHomemakr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2016, 07:20 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Thanks for the link. Neat bath!

I don't really want to make anything "permanent"....I expect that if the bathroom modifications don't work out as I hope, that I or a future owner will want to fix it.

Anyways...I got almost all the interior paneling removed, and cleaned for reinstalling. I still have to clean the inside surface of the shell. As usual, another snag....the streetside outriggers behind the wheel area are rusted badly, and that whole corner of the shell has sagged quite a bit (at least half an inch, but less than an inch). To make it solid again, I probably need to remove the floor plywood that is between the wheels. But since the trailer is so far apart already, I am considering pulling the shell off and replacing the entire floor. The rest of the wood is surprisingly solid, but it also doesn't cost that much to replace it, and it would give a nicer surface for the new flooring. The floor was painted some time in recent history, and it was patched with white plaster type floor patch, under the paint. I expect it would take more effort to clean and smooth the existing floor, than to just replace it all. Of course, this all turns into even more unplanned work, but I was kind of expecting things to not go as planned. It seems to be how these things go.

So, today I'll pull the remains of the front belly pan and bananas off, and see how the bolts and nuts look under there.

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2016, 08:19 PM   #19
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
After spending some time looking things over, I decided to just fix the frame, replace the rear part of the floor, and call it good. Today, I replaced part of the lower frame extension and the outriggers behind the streetside wheel well, and replaced the last three feet of the frame rail on that side. I'll do the end of the other frame rail tomorrow, and then I should be ready to replace the rear floor.

I did a sort of a budget for what all the parts will cost to finish the Airstream, and came up with about $6k or so of things I can think of. I expect there's a couple thousand more for things I forgot, or don't know about yet. I guess we'll be spending lots of money soon! But it might start to look like something again soon, too.

A 23' trailer, and all it's contents, really fills up a 1300 sq foot shop.
jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2016, 11:42 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
I finished fixing the frame. The last three feet got replaced, including both rear crossmembers, and a couple outriggers. I used 1/8" thick material. I duplicated the rails using two pieces of 1.5" angle, with a 2" wide strap between them. The rear crossmember is 2" angle on top, 1" angle on bottom, connected in a few places with strap. The second to rear crossmember is 2" thinwall tube, with a piece of 1.5" angle to bolt the plywood to. I decided to use a 32 gallon holding tank, for gray and black. I will put the toilet on the floor, instead of on the original black tank. The new tank will fit a couple inches below the floor, and hang down at the streetside end, so the spigot will go below the frame. I intend to add a section below the frame to help protect the tank. Tank is ordered, should be here next week.

Now, I need to see about getting that new plywood in place. It'll be challenging to do it all in one piece.. I am thinking about removing the wheelwells, to make room for it. And then, it will still be difficult.



jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2016, 06:56 AM   #21
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
I got the new wood in place in the floor. Now there's a whole bunch of planning to do.

I've been thinking about what I need to do before I can put the inner panels back on. Mostly, it has to do with planning changes to the electrical system. The existing wiring is in really good condition, so I intend to reuse all of it. I do want to make a few little additions. I expect I'll want to run coax antenna cable, since I plan to replace the original antenna with a modern one that is more suitable for UHF. And has a working mechanism. I also noticed the breaker box and junction box work in strange and mysterious ways...there was originally some type of monitor at the junction box, in the closet with the breaker box? I'm thinking of removing the junction box, and running two separate breakers for the outlets....one that goes across the back to the charger/converter, and another to the front outlets. And yet another for the roof AC wire.

I also think that we might want a few more 12v outlets around the inside.

And I've been looking at solar stuff. Flex panels around 100W each are pretty reasonable, under $200 each. I think there is room for a couple of them on either side of the antenna. Not quite the optimum location, but about the only location there is, considering how much room a roof AC would take. I can probably install a charge controller where the clock and thermometer used to be in the control center. And use existing blue and white wires in that location to connect it to the battery. The wire runs are a little bit long, but should still work. This would require a wire feed through for the solar panel cables, at the front of the roof.

I'd also like to install a car stereo in the front somewhere, and add four speakers, using the original wires that were installed when it was new, but never used. There is an antenna.

Also, last night I removed the fresh water tank. It would have been easier if I had figured out that it was mostly full, and had drained it first...oh, well. It's on the floor of the shop now. And it looks like it's in great condition. Don't see any evidence of stuff growing inside. I'll drag it out and drain it, and see about cleaning it out. I'll also have to carefully evaluate the plywood that holds it up, and see if it's still in good enough condition to reuse. That's a hefty chunk of thick plywood!

I'm also going to have to clean the inside of the shell, one of these days. I've been using pet odor and stain remover on the back side of the vinyl clad panels, I expect I'll use it on the entire inner surface of the shell, too. Of course, the remains of the insulation will be falling down upon me as I clean. It's all so much fun.
jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2016, 03:39 PM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
I decided to use commercial grade VCT tiles on the floor. Lots of pros and cons for lots of different flooring materials...the tiles have the old time look I'm after, they're locally available, relatively inexpensive, seem to hold up ok for many folks from the reports I've read, etc. Maintenance is required. They will probably start to look funky at the plywood joints after a while. I can live with that. Anyways, the new floor is done. I need to finish the wiring, and get some insulation, and start putting the inner panels back in place.

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2016, 06:41 PM   #23
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
moving along....replaced the battery box today, and started on the insulation and inner panels. I got the six panels around the rear back in place. should be done with the panels in a couple days, I think.
jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2016, 05:55 PM   #24
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Installed most of the inner panels, need to do the two long ones along the sides of the ceiling, waiting for my son to come visit and help with that. So I was working on the wiring in the mean time. Got the 120v stuff working, I replaced the outlets, and rearranged a bit of the wiring in the rear.

I'm trying to figure out the details of the other modifications I'm planning

The old bathroom wall is in place temporarily so I can see how things might fit. Got the new black tank today, waiting for the shower pan...and I ordered a toilet.

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2016, 06:31 PM   #25
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Middletown , Rhode Island
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 226
Nice job, I need to do exactly what you did, remove bathroom, replace about 3 ft of flooring in rear and weld about 3ft of channel on either side and add 2 new cross members. Quick question, how did you remove the old plumbing that led to the black tank? Sawed it off? I'm about to tackle this soon.
Mx468 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2016, 06:56 PM   #26
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Yes, I used the sawzall. I plan to maybe reuse the old vent for the tank, and most of the galley drain plumbing. I'll inspect it all carefully first, though. Especially the trap.

Today I was moving stuff around in front of my shop, and noticed that there was some shipping info on the old black tank. The invoice was still on it! in the plastic stickon envelope. It was from Airstream, in 1986, sent to an RV shop in MA. Shipping was under seven bucks! Those were the days. And I also found that the dump valve and toilet flange were screwed into the tank, they just unscrew.


I ordered a bunch of new parts the past few days...axles, furnace, LP tanks, regulator, cover, some window hardware, etc. No going back, now.
jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2016, 11:11 PM   #27
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
Making more progress. Got most of the front area done...but that's just reinstalling stuff I removed earlier. The new stereo is in and working, it goes where the old clock and thermometer were. The plastic face of the control panel was kind of messed up in that area. Battery is connected to the blue/white wires that run to the trailer connector, and I tapped power from that source, in the control panel. I also tried out the Parallax power converter that appears to have been installed around 2004. It didn't work. I opened it up, and found two bad looking capacitors--one had leaked out the top, the other looks like it popped long ago. I ordered a couple replacements, I'll see if that fixes it...if not, I'll just buy a new converter.

Also spent some time reading up on sizes of fridges, and finally found a model that I think I can make fit into the available space. RM2510.2 Dometic. I think it's been discontinued, it does not show up on their web page..but there are new ones still available from a few different sources.

And my son came up with an interesting way to make new shafts for the window latches. Instead of machining a large piece of aluminum stock to the required size, he had the idea of just threading a nut onto a long 5/16' fine thread bolt, then machining the nut to a smaller, round size, then milling flats on the threaded end, and drilling the hole for the handle pin. We made one of them, it seems to work! although it seems kind of silly to have spent two hours making a part that one could buy for $5, if it were only in stock. I need to make 4 or 5 more.


jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2016, 11:52 PM   #28
2 Rivet Member
 
1972 23' Safari
Sierra Vista , Arizona
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 89
I got to work on that pesky bathroom wall. The shower kind of needs to be a little bigger than the original location of the wall would allow, so I scooted it forward two inches. Just as much as I could, and still clear the battery compartment. I rearranged the extrusions that comprise the door jamb, so it would be almost aligned. I decided to hinge the original door, which was a slider. I think it'll work. I happened to have a 6 ft piano hinge that a friend gave me years ago...just about perfect for this. I hope.

I also got some cabinets installed. The shelves took a little bit of repair work, but it all seems to be pretty solid now.

__________________

jforb is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Safari :: 2006 Airstream Safari SE Mrs Silverback Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 08:31 AM
22 safari sport vs. 20 safari jeffrho Member Introductions 10 01-04-2008 07:52 PM
Safari 19' vs Safari 22' michael165 2006 Safari 15 06-04-2007 06:02 AM
On a safari for our Safari 3DogNight 2007 Safari SE 10 12-21-2006 12:54 AM
Doing research-19' Bambi-Safari OR 23' Safari-WHY? ernesto ca Member Introductions 9 04-06-2006 06:33 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.