Random thought...anyone know how a Nascar tire change is done? That process doesn't look very precise...does the wrench they use always tighten to the correct value?
I am not a lug-nut scientist.
I have removed and tightened thousands of lug-nuts.
As a 16 year-old idiot monkey I sweat over a coats 10-10 changing tires for Sears all summer long. We slammed the wheels on and off with an impact gun. Never saw a “mag” wheel in those days. Sears had no torque wrench in the shop.
I cannot speak for NASCAR, but I crewed IMSA GT for five years. A bit more real-life type cars, it was “Endurance Racing” 24 hours at Daytona and Watkins Glen, 12 hours at Sebring, 6 hrs Portland, Laguna Seca , Road America, Mid Ohio... A 24 hr race took about thirty tires. It was my Pit-Crew position to replace both wheels and front brake caliper on the car's left side within 1minute and ten seconds because that's how long it took to gravity fuel our Stock appearing secretly modified 1LE Camaros. I slammed the steel wheels on just like I did as a kid for Sears.
I watched our cars go 175mph, saw brake rotors glow bright orange into the turns, corner on two wheels, sometimes flip side over side a few times, and the steel wheels never came off.
There were two Kelsay-Hayes wheel engineers advising our team as to the installation procedure.
The steel wheels were hub-centric. I used a very light veil of anti-seize on the lug-nut threads and the inside of the wheel's hub pilot hole. We always used new nuts and kept the taper and seats immaculately clean. I carefully centered the nut into the wheel's lug seat, and calked a evenly coved 1/8” bead of 3m weatherstripping adhesive around the seated nut and wheel. This glued the nut onto the wheel. Later, during the race, when pushed onto the hub, The elasticity of the set weatherstrip cement stretched a dozen tentacles that kept the nut perfectly centered over the stud. The CP Impact guns were run from Nitrogen bottles, regulated at normal shop pressure. Toward the end of the race a few studs might look like stalactites, but next race starts with all new studs. That's The IMSA GT way as advised by Kelsay-Hayes.
I use anti sieze on my trailer lug-nuts and tighten the steel wheels by breaker bar, three times incrementally in star pattern until they feel right. I check them at the first rest stop, put the hub-caps on and forget about it. Every Spring I'll give 'em a kick and shake to check for bearing looseness, but they never are. I in no way suggest that mere mortals attempt this procedure. No one touches my lug-nuts but me.
Other than vanity, I don't see a reason to have aluminum trailer wheels. We're not drag racing. I don't believe that un-sprung weight outweighs safety. I would concede to being a bit of a hypocrite tho, if I were offered the correct set of Centerline Auto-Drags. This is the only aluminum wheel in existence that can cause me to whore myself to fashion.
The arguments about lug-nut lubing, K factors, coatings, and torque are endless, but to the anti-anti-seize crowd, of whom many have never used anti-seize, the sky isn't falling, and Ralphie never poked his eye out.