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Old 05-19-2014, 04:40 PM   #71
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It is good to hear everyone is safe and the trailer is not too battered. Last summer I went all over SC from south FL and traveled around. I checked my wheel lugs several times at the 120 ft lbs torque. Later in the fall I opted for the 16" wheel/tire Bauer-like combination. I removed my old wheels but ran into some issues, three of the lug bolts were not right- two of them were able to be turned but one of them was damaged and had to be removed. This cost about $75 to have it removed and a new one installed. The shop mechanic told me that the most common reason for lug issues like this was tightening the log nuts too tight.

When I got home my father came over to the trailer and saw the mess. A mechanic by trade, he checked the grade of the bolt and confirmed that 120 ft lbs was a maximum for that grade but recommended for me to go lower and to add a very small amount of lug-ease to the nut threads. He asked why I tightened them too tight! I know that others here are not in agreement with this but I want to post it for the record. I now use 100 ft lbs. The lug nut bolts and the lug nuts have a rating and those determine maximum torques. When I was removing my lug nuts the first thing I noticed was the slippage of the chrome covering before failing to turn at all or rather, all-as-one turning- the nut and the lug.
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:57 PM   #72
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Are you saying that the Aluminum wheels have issues Frank?

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They tend to fly off. Do a search here and you will find hundreds of times an aluminum rim has come off. It is rare with a steel rim.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:24 PM   #73
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Brad,

Another day or so in the Keys, raise another glass to the sunset in my name and I'll hoist one for you to the Southern Yellow Pines in my backyard.

Man this is getting interesting. Still ain't heard who the last torquemaster on the wheels was, hummmmh!

I sure as heck ain't got all the answers or I'd be down in the Keys too and you'd be buying your cold ones from me.

I just switched wheels too and pretty sure my new Hi-Spec wheels have steel inserts and pretty sure my old '07 wheels had steel inserts too. Just take a look or hit them with a magnet.

Last night I checked my Hi-Spec's for the first time after a local outing, they took a smidge more to get them to click the wrench.

Maggie, we sorta toasted Brad at Alumalina on his upcoming retirement in a day or so after the rally. I mean we didn't have a cake or dancing girls just raised a glass. After all, it was only Brad.

I just hope Thor survived making the AS a 3 wheeler in the Keys.

Gary
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:07 PM   #74
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Man this is getting interesting. Still ain't heard who the last torquemaster on the wheels was, hummmmh!

Gary
The last person who torqued my tires was the mechanic who installed them (a year ago???).

I must have grown up in a vacuum. Torque? Not something (before this experience and this thread) that I even thought about! This is our 3rd Airstream, we have traveled in almost every state, been many thousands of miles, and not once (before today) have I checked the torque on my wheels. I check the lugs, I check air pressure, I do a bunch of things like that. But never have I checked torque. Looks like I have a new checklist item.

BTW, when I explained to the mechanic this morning that I had not been aware the tire came off, he said, boy, these Airstreams must tow really well.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:18 PM   #75
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Never in my life have I torqued a steel wheel. I have always torqued aluminum wheels though.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:21 PM   #76
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Brad,

I cannot imagine how many wheels are mounted on cars and light trucks and they just hammer away until the impact gun pretty much stalls. I use an impact gun at work occasionally mostly for careful removal of fasteners on cars and pickups. When it's time for detail tightening the torque wrench comes out.

Ever Wonder about the tightening process on hitch balls?

See if you can photo the head of the new stud for any markings.

Gary
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:36 PM   #77
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They tend to fly off. Do a search here and you will find hundreds of times an aluminum rim has come off. It is rare with a steel rim.
That is why I prefer steel wheels and hubcaps. Steel wheels are easier to mount tires on, easier to mount on the vehicle, easier to balance, easier to paint if they rust, and steel lug nuts tend to stick to steel wheels better than to aluminum wheels. Also, the different metals expand and contract at different rates when heated and cooled, promoting loosening.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:56 PM   #78
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While I don't dispute those with more experience than I, I do have two cars and one truck with nearly 200,000 miles on aluminum wheels and I have not once torqued the lugs unless a wheel was coming off for some other reason like replacing brake pads. I guess I need to change my ways for the trailer.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:44 PM   #79
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Hi, "back in the old days" we just tightened the lug nuts by hand [tire iron or cross bar] until we thought that they were tight enough. As mechanics, we hit them with an impact wrench; We usually run them down until they hit bottom and let the impact gun rattle/hammer/impact about three times and stopped there. Never had any problems at all. Then came Mags, aluminum, or alloy wheels. They were coming loose and falling off. We now have a new process called re-torqueing the lug nuts after so many miles after initial installation. Tire shops started using torque wrenches or torque sticks. Some shops just tighten them extra tight, probably thing that it will make up for the re-torque down the road.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:48 PM   #80
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I have the 16" Sendel wheels and Michelins on my Safari 27FB. I have been running at 100 pounds torque with no issues in 10,000 miles. At Jackson Center in April the tech torqued at 120 after adjusting brakes and repacking the wheel bearings. He told me it was the spec for the wheel and size.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:01 AM   #81
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Snug them up every long trip you go on and about once a year remove them and wire brush the corrosion on the inside of the rim and the outside of the drum where the rim and drum contact each other. I think the problem is that trailers sit a lot and corrosion takes hold. Tire monkees are for the most part idiots. And that I why I NEVER take the vehicle to the shop. I take in loose wheels. When you remove the wheels yourself you can inspect things and put them back properly. I have never used a torque wrench on a rim and never have had one come off. Usually when something is overtightened it breaks at that time.

Tire monkeys are responsible for broken and stripped threads, frame and undercarriage damage from improper jacking, and not to mention leaving lug bolts loose. I have seen all of these.

Perry
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:36 AM   #82
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Wheel snapped off in the Keys

Chances are the wheel didn't just "come loose", it was never really tight to start with. I don't think most aluminum wheels are a lot more prone to coming loose than steel wheels, (giant donk wheels excluded ) but it is easier to catch a loose steel wheel on a walk around.

A tell tale for a loose wheel is rust streaking from the lug nuts, it is easier to see, and there is more of it on a steel wheel.
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Old 05-20-2014, 08:05 AM   #83
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Tire monkeys are responsible for broken and stripped threads, frame and undercarriage damage from improper jacking, and not to mention leaving lug bolts loose. I have seen all of these.

Perry
I could tell you the nightmare about the time I took my 1967 Ford F350 in for a flat repair, the studs on the left hand side of the truck had left hand threads.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:01 AM   #84
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No advice to give but just sorry your trip was slowed down by the issue with the wheel. Glad it did not damage the trailer ..
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