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Old 05-18-2014, 09:24 PM   #43
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Brad, hope you get the drum fixed up quickly tomorrow. Hard to tell from the pictures, but looks like one or two bolt holes on the wheel may be damaged. As suggested by several others, probably a good idea to check the torque on the other wheels. Maybe your mechanic can tell from the remaining stud heads how they failed.

Sorry for the hijack, but this seems like a good time/place to ask.

So, since I'm heading out Thursday for Cedar Key for the first trip on my new Sendels and 16" Michelin LTs, what should I torque them to? Someone on here said JC's spec was 100 lb.ft. That's what they are at right now. I will stop about 50 miles down the road and check them.

Thanks,

Al
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:23 PM   #44
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According to my 2014 FC manual 110 ft lb max torque

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Old 05-18-2014, 10:27 PM   #45
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Thanks Beach Bum. I'll crank them up to 110 before I leave.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:41 PM   #46
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According to my 2014 FC manual 110 ft lb max torque

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Hi, if Airstream could be more consistent; My owner's manual states that my lug nuts are to be torqued to 110 lbs to 120 lbs. I torque mine at the max 120 lbs. It also says to torque my spare steel wheel to only 90 lbs.
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Old 05-18-2014, 11:27 PM   #47
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Hi, yes in some cases, but not when the hub and drum don't separate.
You still just drive the old studs out, hammer them from were the wheel nut was and install them from back side of drum ,you can hammer them in ,but best to use the wheel nut with a spacer under it,and just torque it to specs 120 lbs?then recheck wheel torque first mile then follow normal retorque as per manual .and yes you must take drum off to perform this repair .
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:49 AM   #48
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you might notice four broken studs and two empty holes? The two came off and the rim broke the rest off… that's my story and I am sticking to it.

I love these aluminum wheels they use. They keep my shop and many of my competitors flush with body work.
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:07 AM   #49
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So, since I'm heading out Thursday for Cedar Key for the first trip on my new Sendels and 16" Michelin LTs, what should I torque them to?l
When I bought mine a few years back JC told me 125-130. That's what I've been doing with no problems.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:15 AM   #50
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Are you saying that the Aluminum wheels have issues Frank? I remember my manual saying something about rims needed to be removed and places with the holes aligned the same way or a wire brush should be used to remove all oxidation from the rim and seating area on the drum. His rim looked clean as far as oxidation.

Perry

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you might notice four broken studs and two empty holes? The two came off and the rim broke the rest off… that's my story and I am sticking to it.

I love these aluminum wheels they use. They keep my shop and many of my competitors flush with body work.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:27 AM   #51
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From what I see in the pictures, it seems that there are witness marks on the wheel and the hub that seem to indicate that the wheel ran loose for a while.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:05 AM   #52
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I think the wheel did come loose a bit with two studs (broken off inside) and then the rest sheared off. Had Rubio's out here this morning, and as you would expect they need to overnight the correct studs, so final repair (hopefully) tomorrow morning.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:45 AM   #53
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Torque specs are different for STEEL wheels and ALUMINUM ones. 110 for Aluminum, I think steel is higher - 125 - but that's memory not fact.

Paula
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:51 AM   #54
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Airstream manual calls for 110 lbs torque for aluminum wheels and 100 lbs for steel wheels.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:58 AM   #55
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Yes, but, my (2001) manual calls for 85 on Aluminum wheels. I emailed AS to ask. We'll see what they say.

Al
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:00 AM   #56
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Yes, but, my (2001) manual calls for 85 on Aluminum wheels. I emailed AS to ask. We'll see what they say.

Al
Could well be that torquing specifications have changed over the years, with new casting techniques for wheels, etc.
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