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Old 08-31-2016, 12:13 AM   #99
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-43568-24.html

Here is that Reese thread. Different hitch, but interesting reading. Pat
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:25 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
There are a couple of pieces of vertical steel under the back of the trailer frame on my trailer.
I have bottomed them out once in a gas station dip.
I assume they are there to protect other parts?
Sounds like skid plates. The idea was to keep there rear of the trailer from dragging. The current thinking seems to be they are not a good idea because they will put additional stress on the rear of the the trailer. Same for those little wheels thingys.I have also seen vertical pieces near the wheel which will support the trailer in the event of a flat.
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:08 AM   #101
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I just hope I never do that again.
It sounded terrible.
There appears to be no other damage then the paint on the skid plates scratched.


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Old 08-31-2016, 09:48 AM   #102
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[QUOTE=PKI;1843833]
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Originally Posted by aap View Post
-- snip -- cant tell by looking at them, -- snip -- I did purchase this from the dealer and they set it up specifically for my truck -- snip --
What's the significance Should i have the 750s or the 1000s? -- snip --/QUOTE]

Anthony

Yes, you can. Bars are marked with dimples or dots on the round end, close to the pin hole.

1 dot - 550 lbs
2 dots - 750 lbs
3 dots - 1000 lbs
...... more dots, more weight - see the BO web site - parts

Not to make too big a point of it, but .... if you know more than the dealer, your life will be much smoother. The old lawyer saying "don't ask a question you do not know the answer to before you ask it" applies here as well.

Difference - lower weight bar = less shock to trailer. The agenda here depends on your approach. IMHO, using more bar than is necessary to transfer the required weight to the front axle to optimize stability is a mistake. It requires a minimum of 2" of bar deflection to get enough sway control. If you need little to no weight transfer, the 550s may work. I think the 750s will transfer all the tongue weight of a 23. Therefore the 1000s would transfer more weight with less deflection and pass more shock to the trailer.

There is a concept that More is better. The bigger the tow vehicle, the stronger the hitch, the bigger the trailer, the safer and better the experience. However, with that experience, folks are finding that enough is better. The problem is that the new vehicles are considerably better than older ones and more is a lot of fun with bigger being more comfortable.

There is a thread about Reese hitches that applies and is worth a read. Andy at Inland RV seems to be one expert on the concept of lighter bars for stiffer TVs.

Blue Ox would likely spec the 750s to match the tongue weight. Should you change, if that is not what you have? Maybe not until you understand a bit more about the trade offs and have developed your own strong opinion based on your experience.

Travel safe. Pat

okay - i feel dumb

its clear i need to re-visit everything - i have never towed anything before, so my learning curve is steep

much stuff i have written down in a binder in a trailer and i have not committed to memory yet

i did some searching and the dealer said the bars are 1000s, but when i look at the dimples on the bar, based on your description and calling blue ox, they would appear to be 550s...at anyrate, i'll know exactly what they are before too long, and will work to better understand tradeoffs

thanks for helping me to improve - i appreciate everyones generosity in this regard

-anthony
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:22 AM   #103
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[QUOTE=aap;1843961]
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post


okay - i feel dumb

its clear i need to re-visit everything - i have never towed anything before, so my learning curve is steep

much stuff i have written down in a binder in a trailer and i have not committed to memory yet

i did some searching and the dealer said the bars are 1000s, but when i look at the dimples on the bar, based on your description and calling blue ox, they would appear to be 550s...at anyrate, i'll know exactly what they are before too long, and will work to better understand tradeoffs

thanks for helping me to improve - i appreciate everyones generosity in this regard

-anthony
Hmmm, my bars have small shallow holes in a row down the bars from the head end. Are you looking in the right place?
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:24 AM   #104
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Anthony - if they are 550s, you may have a very experienced service department.....or you may have an error. Depends on why you have them. Sometimes bars get traded out to get the customer what they want. That certainly is worth your investigation. The good news is that you like the way they work. Good luck - travel safe. Pat
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #105
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hmmm - thought i stronger frame on the 250 would do me better - interesting points for sure...i'm glad my learning curve is happening steep and fast...
The softer suspension on the 1/2 ton, under a 900 +lbs tongue weight trailer makes it bottom out and also less stable in curves on the road however.
The heavier suspension of the 3/4 ton provides better over all road stability in this case.
At 700 lbs or under tongue weight this wouldn't be as much of an issue.
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:12 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Anthony - if they are 550s, you may have a very experienced service department.....or you may have an error. Depends on why you have them. Sometimes bars get traded out to get the customer what they want. That certainly is worth your investigation. The good news is that you like the way they work. Good luck - travel safe. Pat
aye yai yai - um, did i mention i feel dumb, well now i feel dumber than dumb

so, couple things - it would have been beneficial if i went to the blue oxy web site proper VS blueoxtowbars.com

after going to the correct site, i realzed (don't laugh too hard), i actually have to take the bars out of the coupler to see dots - sheesh, 1000s i have

at least i'm learning and i'm eager, that must count for something - right?

thanks again...

and finally, is it just being new, or do all the moving parts and what seem to be rather simple attachments (cotter pin, nuts/bolts/chains), even with the redundancy, scare folks...i'm sure experience knows better here...is there a common point of failure among these items...what do you to ensure your survival in this regard...
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:18 PM   #107
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[QUOTE=aap;1843961]
Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post

i did some searching and the dealer said the bars are 1000s, but when i look at the dimples on the bar, based on your description and calling blue ox, they would appear to be 550s...at anyrate, i'll know exactly what they are before too long, and will work to better understand tradeoffs
Good news is with the Blue Ox system you can simple buy just new bars if what you have are incorrect. No need to buy a whole new system.

I have 750lb bars on my 04 Safari 22' at the recommendation of Blue Ox and the the A/S dealer. They do the job.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:35 AM   #108
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This may be a combination of issues. Lift kit and tires not properly balanced, aligned, as well as too much tension on the WD bars, travel at higher speed than the rig can handle on the type of road. Also, many interior components are shipped in the manufacturer's packaging inside the trailer, and installed by the dealer before delivery. The dealer may be avoiding a warranty charged back from Airstream.


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Old 09-06-2016, 10:30 AM   #109
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Interesting thread. I was not even aware that there was a lift for an AS. I can see a 1" lift plus 15" tires really helping the 23'. I'll be headed to Alaska in three years, so I've got time. The low hanging pipes for emptying the black and grey tanks have always bothered me. We drove a few miles of wet gravel coming out of Pearl Lake SP in Colo on Sat. Those outlets were caked in gravel slush. Fortunately we drove through some rain later that night on I 80, and everything was washed clean. I con only imagine what Alaskan roads will do to it.
Could this 1" lift be done by an individual? Or are special tools, like a full lift for the trailer required? (Sorry for the thread drift.)
Glad to hear your dealer is stepping up. Hopefully,,
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:48 PM   #110
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We talked to a fellow with Alaska tags on the rig and he cautioned that lots of RVs lose tanks when the road salts, minerals, stuff cakes on and adds weight to the tank until it falls off. After some reading, I am convinced part of the problem is corrosion that kills the attachment hardware and other big chunks of stuff on the road surface that knocks the low slung tanks off the trailer.

Very surprised there is not a retrofit guard for the waste dump valves. Actually surprised AS does not install a guard as part of the OEM design. And then there is the option world. Why would any company not embrace the opportunity to driv up profits with factory and dealer installed options. Going to Alaska, you need one of these beauties.

Travel safe and don't hit stuff. Pat
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:57 PM   #111
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Interesting thread. I was not even aware that there was a lift for an AS. I can see a 1" lift plus 15" tires really helping the 23'. I'll be headed to Alaska in three years, so I've got time. The low hanging pipes for emptying the black and grey tanks have always bothered me. We drove a few miles of wet gravel coming out of Pearl Lake SP in Colo on Sat. Those outlets were caked in gravel slush. Fortunately we drove through some rain later that night on I 80, and everything was washed clean. I con only imagine what Alaskan roads will do to it.
Could this 1" lift be done by an individual? Or are special tools, like a full lift for the trailer required? (Sorry for the thread drift.)
Glad to hear your dealer is stepping up. Hopefully,,
Yes, I'm glad the dealer is doing the right thing as well, and looking forward to getting the trailer back, its amazing how "it" grows on a person (people).

When I purchased my AS, the goal was to have it "off road-ish" ready upon leaving the dealer - so I had them install the lift kit.

I did a quick search using the "google custom search" feature on the forum, and there is a fair amount of info on lift kits, and NoResults on page 1 of this thread, says "I did a lift on mine for less than $400.00 and I changed out the tires and wheels for 15 Michelin and sendel wheels for about $600 after I sold the original tires and wheels"


Click on the link below for search results related to "lift kits"

https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=011403...kit&gsc.page=1

I'm currently looking for a way to protect my external facing sewer lines as well, its just too creepy where they are, even with the lift kit - I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks,
-anthony
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:14 AM   #112
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Thanks Anthony. I'll check out that thread. Good news, if I can do it myself. I'm already on the sendel wheels.
Hopefully your trailer will be better than new when you get it back.
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