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Old 08-30-2016, 10:01 AM   #85
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Thank you for adding the lifting does improve the rear bumper drag... Getting the plumbing up a bit for those installed behind the rear axle is also a benefit.

A bit is also added when the front of the trailer sits down onto the hitch, although with weight distribution hitches it may not be that much.

With experience, bumper dragging can be avoided. When departing a gas station with grooves in the pavement... it may be a good time for the passenger to follow your bumper out of the danger zone.

Discussed mud flaps for the tow vehicle last night. Slung a lot of mud and gravel onto the gravel guards in Wyoming. Everyone should consider what works for you and your style of travel. This is what makes these Forums so wonderful!
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Old 08-30-2016, 10:14 AM   #86
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Rock Tamers- big mud flaps that protect the front of the trailer-
About $200 on Amazon-
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:31 PM   #87
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Rear bumper dragging or frame main under bumper could canning of corner skins above rub rail.
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:37 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snaken49 View Post
AAP,

As we all know an AS is a house on wheels and in some respects an aircraft due to the design and construction of the shell. Both are subject to considerable vibration. On an aircraft critical bolt heads have holes drill for safety wire to prevent them from backing off.

Unfortunately the AS has nothing of the sort leading to screws vibrating loose over time, depending on the frequency of the vibration. I recommend as a preventive measure the following:

- Remove all metal to metal cabinet hinge screws and treat them with red LOCTITE Threadlocker http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/...er-Red-271.htm This will save doors from coming off the hinges. Use the same application for metal drawer handles.

- Periodically check and tighten all exposed drain lines under sinks and lavatories for loose connections. Do the same for your water filter if one is installed under the sink.


- Use wood glue for wood screws to reinstall those that back out of cabinet fixtures.

- Once a year check the fresh water, grey and black water tank cradle retaining bolts for obvious signs of backing off and rust. Some folks have experienced tanks falling off while traveling due to rust and corrosion.

- I highly recommend the (nearly) Complete Guide to Airstream Maintenance by Rich Luhr. It will provide you with many other useful tips on keeping your rig in top shape.

http://store.airstreamlife.com/produ...am-maintenance

Rich also offers the Newbies Guide to Airstreaming

http://store.airstreamlife.com/colle...o-airstreaming

In regards to your dealer not wanting to warranty the work instead suggesting that you file an insurance claim. This is often the case where a dealer is not satisfied with the labor rate that Airstream will pay for warranty repairs vice what an insurance company will allow. Airstream dealers are not all equal in the care and treatment of their AS customers. Some dealers refuse to do warranty repairs on Airstreams that they did not sell. Other dealers will say that they are too booked up with big motor home repair work and will direct you to other authorized Airstream warranty repair facilities in the area. It should not be this way, but it is.

Finally, you can send a PM to me for information on corrosion issues.

All the best! joe
Red locktite is permanent very very hard to remove some thing unless heated. IMO green lock tite is self wicking holds same as red easy to take apart. When still racing used both types, stuff did not fail. Bill
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Old 08-30-2016, 02:56 PM   #89
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RE: Rear bumper dragging
Currently have a 34' and a 25 foot. Also have had a 31'.

First/ I have never seen the rear bumper actually drag. The main frame members will drag.

Second/ would not attempt a road with my 34, even though the overhang is probably not much more than my 31, where there is a risk of dragging my tail. (On a road like that it would be a real problem to turn that big sucker around anyway). Saying that the 31 would drag frequently.

Third/ It is pretty hard to drag my rear on my 25 which has the standard axle/wheel set up. Not that a lift kit, 16" wheels and 32 degree axles is not a good idea. If I had the $ I would do it.
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:06 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
RE: Rear bumper dragging
Currently have a 34' and a 25 foot. Also have had a 31'.

First/ I have never seen the rear bumper actually drag. The main frame members will drag.

Second/ would not attempt a road with my 34, even though the overhang is probably not much more than my 31, where there is a risk of dragging my tail. (On a road like that it would be a real problem to turn that big sucker around anyway). Saying that the 31 would drag frequently.

Third/ It is pretty hard to drag my rear on my 25 which has the standard axle/wheel set up. Not that a lift kit, 16" wheels and 32 degree axles is not a good idea. If I had the $ I would do it.
Correct main frame will drag as bumper is above I just copied what was posted as far as dragging I did it pulling into gas station that was higher than road, even angled entrance, canned rt. rear corner not enough to repair, no damage to frame. My 1967 30 ft. had rollers both sides drug few times but not enough to damage also not as steep as when drug 31ft. 1976
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Old 08-30-2016, 03:25 PM   #91
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There are a couple of pieces of vertical steel under the back of the trailer frame on my trailer.
I have bottomed them out once in a gas station dip.
I assume they are there to protect other parts?
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:08 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by Lumatic View Post
Keep in mind the difference in suspension between 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks. Heavier trucks have stiffer suspension and will transmit more road shock to the trailer. There are several remedies to this: air bag rear axle suspension, Air Safe hitches, lower tow vehicle tire pressure.
hmmm - thought i stronger frame on the 250 would do me better - interesting points for sure...i'm glad my learning curve is happening steep and fast...
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:10 PM   #93
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It sounds like the lift and the tires raise the dump valves approximately 2" and that has significant value. On the 23 those valves are quite low. The fact that the axle remains at stock level is of less concern, but interesting to note.

The wheels at the rear skid pads, are likely a mistake. They reduce clearance. If they were mounted on the side of the skids with only about a 1/2 in of wheel below the pad, that might be a help. However, usually they are mounted to the bottom of the pad and will bottom several inches before where the original configuration would clear. When I investigated this modification it was generally presented that the frame of an AS is not intended to be strong enough to support all of the trailer mass from the rear, which would be the worst case grounding configuration where the trailer was suspended by the ball and those caster wheels.

The key point here is that severe transitions are problematic. Folks who get through them often carry planks and blocks to bridge holes and drop offs. They are also constantly stopping to assess and adjust the rig position to compensate/resolve road surface irregularity. Does not sound like a good way to disconnect, but folks do it.

The other issue you bring up is replacing the 1/2 with a 3/4. Note the 3/4 will be stiffer and transfer more road induced force to the trailer. That means you need to get a handle on your WDH setup and understand how to best tune the hitch to limit the force transfer while retaining sway control. It is a journey. Hang in there. Pat

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Old 08-30-2016, 05:18 PM   #94
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We towed with a Range Rover HSE the first year and though she could handle our AS, we could feel the AS especially downhill into a curve. Also, the long uphill grades were at 45 MPH and we felt we were shortening the life of the Rover. The point is, the Rover is very close to a 3/4 ton with a six speed, oil cooled tyranny so when we did our research for a new TV we decided on the F350 with the 6.7 Power Stroke diesel. The only difference between the F250 and F350 is an extra leaf spring on the rear axle that doesn't come into play until the load requires it so the ride is the same as an F250 and you don't have the rear end sag that others have had to cure with added air bag suspension. Great truck so far, we only have 4K miles towing and running from the valley to Crater Lake, across the Coastal Range to run up and down the coast we have averaged 12.6 MPG. I am in Tow/Haul mode all the time and lock out 6th gear most of the time. Love the exhaust brake, just returned from Astoria and did not apply the brakes manually at all over the Coastal Range.


Glad you were able to resolve the warranty issue, safe travels and happy camping!
Thanks for the additional information - i'll be looking into an upgrade as i worry about the tranny as well - the F150 with the V8 works well, just seem a little under powered...others make good points about the rigidity factor of a larger vehicle...i need to do more research
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Old 08-30-2016, 05:26 PM   #95
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AAP - you might find this thread helpful in adjusting your BOSP hitch. There are several others that are worth finding and reading.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-123666-9.html

Did you establish which bars you are using - the 750s or the 1000s?

Pat

Unfortunately I cant tell by looking at them, even though there seems to be a part number - I went up to the blue ox site and searched, but nothing came up and when I look at their different models, one can not tell the difference online...all my paper work is in the trailer and I don't want to call them again until they call me

I did purchase this from the dealer and they set it up specifically for my truck and everything i read about these systems, based on looke and feel, would suggest i have the right ones -

What's the significance Should i have the 750s or the 1000s?

Thanks you!
-anthony
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Old 08-30-2016, 07:43 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by Ray Eklund View Post
aap... your 23 foot Airstream with, now, 15" wheels and D Rated tires is ready to experience highway and Forest Service roads. The lift kit does not give you any additional clearance. The axle is your maximum clearance. The lower center of gravity is better than the lift kit advantages, if any... but this is my opinion.

Tires are Number ONE and you did that right.

I owned a 2006 23 foot Safari and like yourself, discovered what I believed and what I actually purchased were not even similar. I felt betrayed by the advertising of Airstreams for going anywhere reasonable, and even on highways there is an expectation that something is going to come loose. I am now finding out... WHY, and helping others FIX these issues before damage to cabinets is beyond repair.

I could not wait any longer to Boondock Upgrade our 2014 25 foot International. If you examine the wood screws and hardware holding the interior cabinets... together, you will really be disappointed. I do not even keep them for reuse, they are that poor in my opinion.

- The shell exterior and interior are very solid. (best reason for an Airstream)
- The Dexter Axles should serve you well.
- The windows and the gaskets may be an issue in the future.
- The appliances are pretty much in every brand of trailers today.

The cabinets, drawers, doors and hardware ARE where you will discover they need to be improved and upgraded. Most of the problems are the 'kinds' of screws used to attach everything in the interior. Myself, if you saw the screws that hold the interior together... I would not buy an Airstream. You will see them on the floor on any kind of trip.

I have a Thread under the 'Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings' concerning Door Hinges... etc. When in the process of going through the problem areas of the cabinet hinges, I encountered interesting problems everywhere else. If you have the ability to put something together that needs assembly... you have a head start.

The 23 foot double axle is an excellent Boondocking Airstream! You will manage to tighten up the interior, but you have to be a hands on person. At $100 to $150 an hour these dealers charge for what they should do for free on a new sale... you should be disgusted. Not ALL dealers are like yours.

Add about 50% more hardware to attach cabinets together and to the floor. Your shower door hinge at the bottom will break off 1/4" of plastic and it will hang up and has to be lifted to clear the bottom drip edge. The microwave frame will split in the lower right corner and the four wood screws have already, no doubt, backed out. Pop rivets in the interior will break on the curved areas... unless your trailer is parked all year.

I do not want you to be overwhelmed all at once, but what the dealer says is your fault... study why and add some structure to firm everything up.

Our oven door fell off in our 23 footer. The list is long, but after two years you will have a 90% perfect trailer. Getting to 100% will never happen, but do not lose hope... this Forum has people from all spectrums of Airstream use. I am just a bit Off the Grid and am upgrading our new trailer... today.

Most responding are more main stream... and normal.
Just reviewing this again now that some dust as settled - doesn't seem to overwhelming (yet)...so, 2 years to get it ready - really?

Have you shared yet exactly what you did, how much time & $$ you have into it yet? ...i'll be searching the boondocking and other forums for specific related to same as well.

Thanks again,
-anthony
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:48 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aap View Post
Thanks for the additional information - i'll be looking into an upgrade as i worry about the tranny as well - the F150 with the V8 works well, just seem a little under powered...others make good points about the rigidity factor of a larger vehicle...i need to do more research
Our Range Rover has air suspension and I don't notice the AS riding any rougher with my F350 as evidenced by what ends up on the floor. We have not experienced any cupboards or drawers opening with either TV. I believe the correct tension on the Blue Ox weight distribution bars has a lot to do with that. When I increased by one link I definitely noticed a rougher ride for the AS so knew that it was too much.
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Old 08-31-2016, 12:02 AM   #98
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[QUOTE=aap;1843664] -- snip -- cant tell by looking at them, -- snip -- I did purchase this from the dealer and they set it up specifically for my truck -- snip --
What's the significance Should i have the 750s or the 1000s? -- snip --/QUOTE]

Anthony

Yes, you can. Bars are marked with dimples or dots on the round end, close to the pin hole.

1 dot - 550 lbs
2 dots - 750 lbs
3 dots - 1000 lbs
...... more dots, more weight - see the BO web site - parts

Not to make too big a point of it, but .... if you know more than the dealer, your life will be much smoother. The old lawyer saying "don't ask a question you do not know the answer to before you ask it" applies here as well.

Difference - lower weight bar = less shock to trailer. The agenda here depends on your approach. IMHO, using more bar than is necessary to transfer the required weight to the front axle to optimize stability is a mistake. It requires a minimum of 2" of bar deflection to get enough sway control. If you need little to no weight transfer, the 550s may work. I think the 750s will transfer all the tongue weight of a 23. Therefore the 1000s would transfer more weight with less deflection and pass more shock to the trailer.

There is a concept that More is better. The bigger the tow vehicle, the stronger the hitch, the bigger the trailer, the safer and better the experience. However, with that experience, folks are finding that enough is better. The problem is that the new vehicles are considerably better than older ones and more is a lot of fun with bigger being more comfortable.

There is a thread about Reese hitches that applies and is worth a read. Andy at Inland RV seems to be one expert on the concept of lighter bars for stiffer TVs.

Blue Ox would likely spec the 750s to match the tongue weight. Should you change, if that is not what you have? Maybe not until you understand a bit more about the trade offs and have developed your own strong opinion based on your experience.

Travel safe. Pat
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