Road Trips 2010

[sempi2]

totally enjoying your trip and pictures.Thanks

[Gene]

Thursday. Maestro, play “Unchained Melody” and follow with “Chain of Fools”. This morning one truck tire was flat. I filled it to see what would happen and saw a suspicious object—was it a staple (the largest one I’ve ever seen if so—1/4” in diameter) or a piece of sharp stone? Stone would be really bad because it can cut a long slit and be hard to repair and impossible with my tire plug kit. A staple would mean 2 holes, but repairable.

We had breakfast. After, the tire was holding air, but leaking a little. That meant I could drive it a 1/2 mile to get it fixed, but at breakfast I had found out the tire guy there had retired.

So I pulled the tire and manipulating the suspicious object proved it was the culprit. Now to get it out. A screwdriver to lever it out could hardly move it, but 2 screwdrivers got it moved enough to get a vise grip on it. This took about an hour. I could not pull it out. with the vise grip. It was wedged in and the steel cords tend to hold objects in a tire. Finally I decided to try some sort of lever—wedging the claw end of a hammer into the side of a visegrip finally pulled it out.

It was a chain link, or actually half of it, probably broken off tire chains. Road grading pulls up things that have been buried in the dirt and some lucky driver gets to take one home. I had hit it just right, but the tire had held air 'til we got back to Chicken, so that was good. After that, it was easy to put the plug in, but the compressor wasn’t compressing right—the end that fits on the valve stem was leaking. Another thing to fix and that took some time. But it got done, and we left at 11:30 for a 350 mile drive to Haines Junction. The plug held. Our record of driving on Arctic and subArctic roads without a flat has been broken.

Another bumpy ride down the Taylor Hwy, then the smoother Alaska Hwy until a 20 minute wait before the border for construction. A quick ride through Canadian Customs, then a bumpy ride to Destruction Bay, Yukon, and a smooth ride to Haines Jct. We arrived here at Kluane RV Park 8 hours after we left. Wifi works well here; it didn’t last year. No place for trash and they say they have nowhere to dispose of it. Where do they put their own?

We kept on schedule and feel ok after a difficult start to the day and a long ride. It got up to 77˚—so hot to us we had to run the A/C for a while. It rained on and off, so that felt kind of normal. Tomorrow we got back to Haines in SE Alaska, rain and cool temps. Lousy weather is beginning to feel normal. We fear when we get back to Colorado where the temps are in the mid 80’s, we will die.

Gene

[Lily&Me]

You've had a grand trip, Gene, and thanks for sharing.

Have a safe and uneventful drive home.

Maggie

[Gene]

Friday. The sun was shining again as we left Haines Jct. and a smooth ride to Haines. These smooth roads could spoil us. Many mountains, fewer rivers and pretty meadows. As we got closer to the coast range, the clouds got thicker, the mountains got higher and there was more snow on them. After the Haines Hwy Summit, more than 3,000’, we began a long descent to the wet side of the mountains, the Chilkat River and Haines.

But first we had to deal with the Fruit Police. Obviously we are now on a US Customs list as fruit criminals. We expect to be pulled over and inspected every time we come back to the US. Last time we went through this they let us keep fruit we brought in the US, but not this time. Barb and I both got out of the truck at the same time to open the trailer door, but we were sternly told “only one needs to get out”. What was she going to do to them in front of the inspection station with two Fruit Police standing there? They won’t let you go in your trailer with them to make sure they don’t break anything either. They seem to be afraid of citizens. They stole nectarines we bought in Palmer, Alaska. One agreed with me it was a dumb rule, but she doesn’t make the laws.

They never asked about what we bought in Canada. Customs used to be concerned with that, but now it’s fruit that is America’s enemy. Next time we go to re-enter the US I’m sure we’ll be inspected for fruit as we are probably on the computer as fruit eaters.

Thousands of bald eagles congregate along the Chilkat River in the Fall when the salmon are running there. Despite having to come to Haines 3 times now, we’ve never been here at the right time.

The Hammer Museum was open and was interesting to me, less so to Barb. They have a bicycle made of hammers outside and they claim 1,400 hammers on display, though I am not so sure about that. The woman there told me where the good restaurants were and we went to the Mexican one, Mosey’s Cantina. Last time we were here it was a natural foods place and we were seated and then ignored; we left. This was different. The new owners are from New Mexico and the food was very good. They got too busy for the one waitress though. There’s a good natural foods store, Mountain Market, and an IGA, so we stocked up with American fruit and other supplies.

We are at Port Chilkoot Camper Park behind the Hotel Halsingland. The hotel is part of a fort that was here long ago and is a funky, but well kept old building. We stayed there in 2006. The RV park is in the trees, has full hookups, and looks kind of seedy, but has lots of trees. We like trees rather than gravel parking lot campgrounds. It is better for us than other campgrounds here, though hard to park in. Not everyone would like it, but is was cheaper than others. The old fort buildings are being slowly restored and turned into businesses. The Chamber of Commerce very actively promotes the town. The setting is marvelous on the Lynn Canal, not a canal, but a very long estuary stretching upstream to Skagway. It is a real town, though spread out and with a confusing street system.

Gene

Photos:

#1 Just west of the Haines Highway Summit.
#2 The Hammer Museum.
#3 The hammer bicycle.
#4 The Museum is in an old house and hammers, mallets, nail guns, axes and such are all considered hammers. People mail them hammers or leave them on the steps when they aren't open.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, the hammer museum looks interesting. Are you going to be able to go back to the toaster museum or have you already passed it or on different route?

[Gene]

Alas, we are going back by a different route. The toaster museum is in Stewart, BC, and off the Cassiar Hwy. We are going back via the Alaska all the way to the beginning (or end) at Dawson Creek, BC. But, someday, we must return. We have been told there's another toaster museum somewhere in the midwest US, so maybe we have to do both. I will certainly keep toaster fans alerted to our search. Those old toasters would last decades, now the new ones last a few years.

Gene

[dstalzer]

Hi Gene
I am really enjoying your travel log and hope to someday make the trip to Alaska.

Well today we blew out one of the Goodyear Marithons on our Airstream. How are your Michelens holding up. I am planning to replace all four tires with new ones and know that the Michelen brand is extremely reliable since I had 88,000 miles on my Ford F150 before replacing them.

Thanks in advance and keep the travel log coming.

Dennis

[Gene]

Dennis, the Michelins are fine. They don't lose air like Marathons and are wearing well. We are happy with them.

Gene

[Gene]

Sunday. Saturday in Haines was buying more food for the next week, looking around the former Fort William Seward, spending time at a jewelry store talking to the town’s several times former mayor and taking it a bit easy for the long drive home. Former mayor Fred Shields is an iconoclast which meant I got along fine with him. We went to the place up the Chilcoot River where bears congregate when the salmon are running, but it was a bit too early in the year. We did see a cool rainbow over the Lynn Canal on the way.

The Fort was built early in the 1900’s after the gold rush was over, but it was felt Alaska needed an army presence. They imported wood and carpenters from the the lower 48 and built some really nice buildings—and a lot of them—in an area that is still somewhat rustic today. After WW II they decommissioned the Fort and it was bought by a group of vets who wanted to make a community out of it. They started some businesses as a co-op. The co-op didn’t work out but 5 of the 6 original families stuck it out and some still live there.

More people are moving to Haines because it’s still mellow, has a community interested in thre arts, there are lots of recreational opportunities, the setting is beautiful and the weather isn‘t as bad as further south in SE Alaska. But you still have to go pretty far for some things. So far as driving goes, the border is 40 miles away and sometimes crossing can be a hassle.

We crossed the border withoiut incident, but the young Canadian border guy was distracted by repeated mosquito attacks. He looked like he’d had a rough night or was hungover. And, despite his troubles, he was a lot nicer than the US people.

The road is mostly smooth from here on. We stopped in Whitehorse for more food and made it to Dawson Peaks Resort well before they close. We’re in the same site we were 6+ weeks ago and the wifi is better. We’ve had a good meal and are parked next to another Airstream. Suddenly we are seeing a lot more of them. Carolyn and Dave are getting tired of running a restaurant—it’s been since the ‘90’s—and this is the last year for the restaurant. That’s sad because the food’s good, but running a restaurant is a tough business.

Tomorrow we go to Liard Hot Springs, a perfect break in a long drive. If we keep driving a lot each day, we get home a week from tomorrow, just as planned. If we slow down a little, a day late, which is ok. Now I have to get the screen door open—as we left the trailer, the latch broke in half and I’ll have to pry it open with a screwdriver. Another example of what happens when a company starts to cheapen it’s product and starts damaging it’s reputation.

Gene

Photos:

#1 The officer's houses at the Fort.
#2 The present day hotel which was the captains quarters and the CO's quarters.
#3 In the parade ground there has been built a replica Klingit lodge. It was closed when we were there. The building in the background is place where people learn and do wood carving and there is a shop with some very nice prints. It was also closed. Four years ago we bought 2 prints there.
#4 The rainbow over the Lynn Canal.

[Julie B]

Hi Gene,

Just noticed your posting on Alaska trip. Great photos. My brother-in-law is the harbor master in Homer and nephew is a captain of a halibut charter boat. It's a pretty nice town I think with many things to see and do. They love Alaska and would never move back to the lower 48. Certainly a different lifestyle, slow paced and much natural beauty. Looks like you had a great road trip.
Julie B

[Gene]

Monday. Since we want to get home in a week, we got off to an early start at 11 am. Since we are still on Alaska time instead of Pacific time, it was a really 10 to us though to no one else. We had our last meal at Dawson Peaks. I asked Dave whether they would still sell pies once they close the restaurant since they are well known for rhubarb pie, but he said “Pies die!”. Carolyn gets worn to a frazzle by the restaurant, so this is the best thing for them.

The forecast was for temps dropping during the day to 9˚C. (“C” for Canadian; even when it’s warm they like to feel cold)) which in US terms is 48˚ (sounds warmer doesn’t it?) and rain. We were looking forward to the hot springs, and cool temps are ok, but rain is not. After a couple of hours on the road, the rains came as we were stopped for one of those “20” minute construction stops that stretch out longer somehow. The temp has stayed in the lower 50’s.

By this time we realized we would have to can the hot springs and travel on to Muncho Lake. This makes tomorrow’s drive a little shorter. About this time in a trip, Barb is itching to get home and I’m not. I think, “why not take it a little slower, enjoy the wilderness, not beat ourselves to death and who cares if we get home a day late? We’re retired, aren’t we?” This seems quite reasonable to me and I express my feelings and logic clearly and convincingly to my very smart spouse knowing she will see the wisdom. Then she tells me what to do and we drive farther trying to get home faster. The honeymoon never ends.

We’ve seen a few black bears in the past week, but by now they are nothing to us. But today we saw wood buffalo. I know they are supposed to be called bison now, but I don’t care (and Pluto is still a planet too!). Wood buffalo are different than plains buffalo, but they look pretty much the same to me. I think they have darker fur.

We stopped at Muncho Lake Lodge & RV Park, a work in progress. It had been called J&H and before that Muncho Lake Lodge, but closed down 4 years ago. The Lodge is still closed, but the RV park is now reopened. The new owners are fixing it up and there’s a long way to go, but you can see the lake from here. It has full hookups and costs $45 for 30 amp. This is expensive, but the fancy place a mile down the road is $58. It's muddy, people don't clean up after their dogs and the sewer adapter doesn't fit. Next time I'll keep driving.

Muncho Lake seems to have copper oxide leaching into the water and is a deep green and blue. So is the river that comes from it. I don’t know whether it is also glacier fed, but this water is not so grey as glacial lakes. It’s a strange looking lake, especially when the sun is shining. The sun, of course, has been mostly absent from our lives for quite a while. But it could be worse—I checked the weather forecast for home and it says temps will be around 100˚ later this week. I think that is far higher than normal—most we’ve seen there is around 90-92˚.

We are having night again. It does get dark. We liike that. I also experiencing no-see-ums. These are little guys that (obviously, are hard to see) and they bite or sting or something. The welts are smaller than mosquitos, but itch ar least as much and seem to last longer. At least you have chance with mosquitos—you can usually see or hear them and they are pretty easy to kill. It’s best to not be in the north country in July or August unless you like this, or are like Barb (who insisted we travel well into July) who has not gotten any mosquito or no-see-ums bites. None. I repeat, None. While I am supposed to be happy for her, I am not. I confess to bad thoughts about her not sharing this Alaska/Yukon experience.

We have been in Indian territory a lot of the time. You would hardly know it as a tourist except for the Indian crafts sold everywhere. Sometimes you see them working in stores. They appear to own some of them. Mostly what you see is white culture and whites running lodging and restaurants and tourist attractions. Yet, in many small towns, the majority is Indian, or, in Canada, First Nations. In Canada the highways are constantly rebuilt and straightened, and are routed around the Indian towns. This reduces opportunities for them to make money off highway traffic. Perhaps this is just insensitivity, or maybe the Indians want to keep their villages off the tourist routes. It does act to keep them invisible to us.

Tomorrow we travel 386 miles to Ft. St. John, just 45 miles short of the end of the Alaska Hwy. Most of this stretch, and many miles before, is barely populated and at times becomes a blur of trees and more trees. It’s 414 miles to Edmonton from there and it becomes more like a job to get home.

Gene

Photos: I'm having trouble sending them. I'll try to send them separately.

[Lily&Me]

No-see-ums are the WORST! Evil little critters. There may be something in the soap you use that they particularly like. Herbaria anti-bug products do keep them away.

Travel safe,

Maggie

[Gene]

#1 Wood buffalo.
#2 Herd of same.
#3 Baby wood buffalo.

[Aage]

Thanks again for your documentary, Gene, always an interesting read. The baby Buffalo reminded me that baby anythings are cute.

As for "Indians", here's what they are called, according to an article on the City of Toront website:

Aboriginal Peoples

Aboriginal Identity refers to those persons who reported identifying with at least one Aboriginal group (North American Indian, Métis or Inuit), or those who reported being a Treaty Indian or a Registered Indian as defined by the Indian Act of Canada, or those who reported they were members of an Indian band or First Nation.

In the US and Canada, they are only called "Indians" because Chris Columbus called them that, mistakenly thinking that he had found India, when it was just Florida.

[Gene]

Native Americans is a term that has some currency in the US, but usually only by gov't officials and others who want to be politically correct. As with most names of 2 words (see African American) most people don't use them, including in my experience, the people being described. One word is easier to say than two. People still say "janitor" rather than "sanitary engineer", perhaps not the best analogy.

Columbus landed on the island of Hispanola if my memory is correct, now the Dominican Rep. and Haiti. He did explore other places, but I'm unsure whether he ever got to Florida. Historians have long disputed whether he actually knew there was a continent between "India" and Europe. Basque and Viking sailors most likely had visited North America long before Columbus sailed west and Columbus may have heard about their voyages. To sell his voyages, Columbus had to emphasize the India connection because of the imagined riches available to those who found an easier route to there. Thus calling the Hispanolans "Indians" had some favorable consequences for further support from Spain.

Gene

[Aage]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Native Americans is a term that has some currency in the US, but usually only by gov't officials and others who want to be politically correct. As with most names of 2 words (see African American) most people don't use them, including in my experience, the people being described. One word is easier to say than two. People still say "janitor" rather than "sanitary engineer", perhaps not the best analogy.

When I hear the term "Native American", I think the next phrase I will hear from the individual is going to be "born and bred in the US of A", and (s)he is person is Occidental.

OTOH, and IMHO, indigenous peoples find that the word "native" smacks of colonialism, and is demeaning.

I like Aboriginal. It sounds older'n dirt, and strong! People with tenure. Indigenous is cool too, but sounds too close to "ingenuous" to be polite.

Of course, these expressions tend to change with time, as we slowly grow more politically correct.

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Columbus landed on the island of Hispanola if my memory is correct, now the Dominican Rep. and Haiti. He did explore other places, but I'm unsure whether he ever got to Florida. Historians have long disputed whether he actually knew there was a continent between "India" and Europe. Basque and Viking sailors most likely had visited North America long before Columbus sailed west and Columbus may have heard about their voyages. To sell his voyages, Columbus had to emphasize the India connection because of the imagined riches available to those who found an easier route to there. Thus calling the Hispanolans "Indians" had some favorable consequences for further support from Spain.

Gene

Yes, and while Chris was hanging about the Spanish West Indies, setting things up so there could be a Spanish-American war four hundred years later, there was purported to be a group of traders waiting on the shore in India, looking at their watches and saying, "Where in hell is Chris?"

And meanwhile, or about 500 years before, in or around say 1003, back at the ranch in L'Anse aux Meadows, Newfoundland, Leif Ericson and certain of my foreflushers were playing poker, using codfish for chips.

Oh, history... Uh, why isn't it "herstory"? didn't wimmin count fer nuthin' back then?

[dstalzer]

We were traveling in Oklahoma a couple years ago an stumbled across Runstone State Park where we saw an amazing Runestone which was said to be created by the Scandinavians a thousand years ago. I did a search on the internet and found this article:

The Heavener Runestone was first discovered, according to local oral history, by a Choctaw hunting party in the 1830's. Poteau Mountain, on which it located, was named by French trappers. It was part of the Indian Territory ceded to the Chactaw Nation when they were removed from Mississippi to present Oklahoma. The Choctaw were probably astonished when they saw the eight mysterious symbols punched in the mossy face of the huge slab of stone which stood in a lovely ravine, protected by overhanging cliffs. Records tell us that there was no underbrush on the mountains then; a deer could be seen for a distance under the virgin timber.

The most recent research on the runic inscription of the Heavener Runestone which stands in the State Park on Poteau Mountain near Heavener, Oklahoma, indicates that it may be four hundred years older than first thought. A former translation stated that it could be the date of November 11, 1012. It now appears that it is not a date, but a boundary marker made as early as 600 A.D. and not later than 900 A.D. It says GLOME VALLEY.

I find this real interesting because it really questions when the Americas were discovered by the explorers from Europe.

Dennis

[Gene]

As the side debate goes on about what to call people, we might also remember that measles may have decimated the populations of the Americas and syphillis was given to Europe in return.

But I digress.

Made it to southern Alberta, need to get it together with more stuff…

Gene

[Gene]

Tuesday. We continued south through the northern Rockies. The Rocky Mountains end in northern BC and other mountains take over the job of being beautiful. The road is not as wide as in Yukon, the brush along the road isn’t cut as often, there aren’t as many pit toilets and rest stops, and road isn’t quite as good in NE BC.

We checked out the gas prices in Muncho Lake and they were $1.79 and $1.82/liter—around $7/gallon. We continued down the road to Toad River where it was a cheap $1.35. After Toad River, we paid a different price—the rig got mud splattered. They had put some gravel on the road, but it was moxed with dirt. Since it was raining as usual, it was at least 15 miles of mud. I had hoped we were past the dirt, dust and mud of an Alaska trip, but no.

We decided to stop at Tetsa River Lodge for our first Alaska Hwy cinnamon bun. Years ago, all along the highway, “lodges” advertised the biggest cinnamon buns, but most of that is gone now. But at Tetsa River, they claim to be the cinnamon bun “centre” of the “galactic cluster”. Who could resist? We were served by an extremely obese woman who went on to tell us they weren’t very sweet. We split one and I felt my teeth were under attack by an army of sugar molecules, but it was good. That served for lunch. Gas was $1.58/liter there.

Along the highway, “lodge” means a store with gas pumps and maybe a few rooms or a motel or campground. A “resort” is one step up. All are rustic which may mean rundown. During the summer season there is always enough gas available, but it is advisable to fill up when you can. A lot of older places are closed and checking the Milepost can tell you where gas is. The Milepost always features places that have advertised and barely mentions those who have not, so you have to read it carefully.

After Ft. Nelson we saw more and more evidence of oil and gas development including a lot of trucks associated with the industry. There were roads off the highway everywhere and lots of cuts through the forest for pipelines. The road got a lot better and the mountains were more in the distance. Rolling hills and fewer rivers and creeks combined with a different forest. There was still some black spruce, but mostly taller and healthier looking trees. It is still a place of small villages.

As we approached Ft. St. John, there were some farms, something hardly seen in the north. There are supposed to be more than 50,000 people in the area, so we have reached something like civilization though there’s only one TV channel here. We are camped in an RV park without trees and that feels exposed after we left several gazillion trees behind us. It took half an hour to clean the mud off the windows, taillights and headlights.

Tomorrow we hope to get close to Edmonton. The Alaska Hwy ends at Dawson Creek, 47 miles away. There are 2 “Mile 0” markers there, a couple of blocks apart, one of the curiosities of the highway.

Gene

[Gene]

Wednesday. The last 47 miles of the Alaska Hwy has more and more traffic as we approach Dawson Creek. There’s a lot of business in town that appears to be oriented to oil and gas development. We made the obligatory stop downtown to see “Mile 0” and drove on. Despite having left the Alaska Hwy, it’s long way to Edmonton, about 350 miles.

We are approaching the prairie, but despite the rolling hills and flat areas, they are mostly forested rather than grassland. When we do see farms, mostly they are growing canola plants out of which is produced canola oil. This means the fields are covered with yellow flowers. It’s quite a sight to see acres and acres of yellow. Besides canola, the products here are oil, gas and timber.

Soon we are in Alberta and lose another hour to Mountain Time. Traffic is heavy, but the road is better. As we approach Grande Prairie, another town of around 50,000, we decide to look for a Boston Pizza. This is a Canadian chain not to be confused with Boston Market. Unllike most restaurant chains, the food is good. We found out they are finally expanding into the US and Boston Gourmet Pizza. I have never heard of a town in Canada named Boston and don’t understand why they choose the name unless they used to sell baked beans when they started 45 years ago. The pizza was very good.

We also had 4 lane highway most of the way from before Grande Prairie, although a lot wasn’t very good pavement and quite bumpy. We’ve been in Canada about 7 times in the last 8 years, visited every province and 2 of 3 territories. There was very little 4 lane except in Ontario and from Quebec to Montreal, but it’s coming, more and more. These are mostly not US interstates—not much limited access—but it’s a change.

Although we hoped to get to Edmonton, that was unrealistic and we are in Whitecourt, 100 miles from there. The good news is that I can’t add and we are 100 miles closer to home that I thought. So the goal of reaching Ft. McLeod tomorrow stands, 97 miles from the border and the fruit police.

Thursday. Drove 400 miles to Ft. McLeod area and the Buffalo Plains RV Park, 7 miles from the highway. This is near Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump. There are a number of places where prairie Indians drove Buffalo over ledges and when the Buffalo hit the botom they were killed. There was buffalo for meat, hides and such for a long time. This name comes from a legend that an Indian boy got too close wanting to see the buffalo crash down. He was killed with his head smashed in. So, it’s not about Buffalo landing on their heads, but landing on a person. This is a well kept campground, cheaper than the ones along the highway and the only one with free wifi in the area. There’s a nice breeze though it’s been as high as the 80’s today. There are scores of wind generators to the south.

We made it through Edmonton in midday and fairly quickly. Calgary, which always seems to have it’s highways under construction, was different. Rush hour, made worse by Calgary Stampede traffic, made for a long slog through the city. Otherwise travel was fast.

From Edmonton to just south of Calgary is more of the expressway, interstate travelors are used to. But there are differences. Speed limits are a bit lower, but unlike years past, Canadians are ignoring speed limits these days, just like us. There are fewer road signs in Canada. If you miss the one sign for a road, you may not see another one. In the US, because we are so busy texting, eating, talking and sleeping, we need lots of signs. Route numbers are rare. At least in western Canada, roads have names and numbers are an afterthought. Speed limit signs are also infrequent though no one is paying attention anyway. Alberta spends little money on rest stops, about the same as Colorado. They contract out road maintenance to private contractors, but the roads aren’t much different than other places and maybe a bit worse.

The announcement by an American group suggesting no tourists visit Alberta because of environmental concerns about tar sands development in NE Alberta is big news here. From what I have read, that development has created lots of pollution and is a mess. But, I doubt the provincial government is going to change its ways since this is very big money here. Their first response is to say they will promote tourism more.

Four days to home.

Gene

Photos:

#1 Mile 0 in Dawson Creek, BC.
#2 Giant beaver at Beaver Lodge, Alberta. Yeh, it kind of looks like a bear.