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Old 01-17-2016, 01:23 PM   #15
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1993 34' Excella
Randolph , Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16
We traveled half of June, July and August in Canada ( getting there and back ) and Alaska. Our goal was to take the rig over the Arctic circle on the Solstice. We missed by three days ( on the Dempster Highway headed to Inuvik in the Northwest Terr ).

We took a generator ( the quiet Honda 2000 ) to power our small pancake air compressor for any tire that went down.
Rock guards are a must for the trailer.
Extra water tank drain valve and shield it before you go.
Protect the gas line with foam tubing.
Good tires to start and check them often.
A copy of the current years "Milepost" is a must for fuel stops, places to camp, points of interest and great information.
Extra belts for the truck.
Something to darken the windows if you have trouble sleeping when its light.

Everyone is correct. It is a great trip, a life time of memories. Enjoy.

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Old 01-17-2016, 01:42 PM   #16
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2014 25' Flying Cloud
Cuddebackville , New York
Join Date: May 2007
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I've driven from NY State to Alaska twice. First in 1971 and again in 2011. Now it's a cake walk compared to '71. With no additional protection I got a couple of small dings in my segment protectors. There was only one particularly bad 100 mile stretch, the rest was well paved.

In '71 we had 100% gravel, lots of tractor-trailers passing us (hauling supplies for the pipeline) and washouts that required camping along the road until it was repaired. I had a hardware cloth screen protecting my windshield and headlights.

When we got our new 2014 FC, I got a crack in a solar guard first time out- on a highway in NY!

2014 25' Flying Cloud Rear Twin
2012 Dodge Durango Hemi/AWD
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:08 PM   #17
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2016 28' International
Los Angeles , California
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 65
Never been to Alaska, and lots of good suggestions for exterior..but we have been on a lot of rough roads boo docking in our FC20 and we had issues with interior cabinets opening, medicine cabinet swinging open until it came off the hinges etc.

So we did the following:

Painters tape to seal off drawers and doors as extra protectant

Light things in overhead cabinets only

Replaced all drawer/cabinet locks with 20lb version

Larger and longer screws for Medicine cabinet

Hope that helps!
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:17 PM   #18
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2015 19' Flying Cloud
Rosemount , Minnesota
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 74
Here is a link to a blog by a couple that made up a fabric cover for the front windows of their airstream. I think something like it would be a worthwhile investment.

Tin Pickle Adventures: Rock Guard From Fabric and Foam
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:23 PM   #19
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1958 22' Caravanner
not shared , Nebraska
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 165
interstateflyer: Have heavily padded naugahyde "bras" made. Plywood in front of tanks.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:43 PM   #20
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2012 Interstate Coach
Metairie , Louisiana
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
I'd like to find a way to protect the Lexan window shields and still be able to see out. Has anyone had luck doing that?
You might try taping clear plastic bubble wrap over the outside of the windows. Carry some extra to replace bubble wrap that ends up with popped bubbles due to impacts. Available in rolls up to 48" wide.

Provides extra insulation as well…
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Engineering: Finding complex solutions to simple problems you didn't even know you had.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:58 PM   #21
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1958 22' Caravanner
not shared , Nebraska
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 165
interstateflyer: And.....for the sides use 1/4 " fanfold ( often put under vinyl house siding) Put self stick magnetic tape full length on top and bottom of sides. Fold out and use very strong magnetic strip ( no adhesive ) on top of fan fold on top and bottom. Select a few extra places in between and be sure to mark the the fanfold where the underneath short strips are. Be sure the "bra" covers the leading edges. Without a "spoiler" as part of the bra, you might get side foam flutter. If so...slow down. My 1958 Caravanner has a hard cover over the "a" frame mounted generator. I'd extend the metal upward to protect the window or use the padded bra approach. I'd not worry about the sides except for maybe the windows. Some dings are patina and are a "badge of courage' purporting to "I use my Airstream anywhere"
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:06 PM   #22
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2015 23' FB Flying Cloud
Redmond , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 146
Blog Entries: 2
I had multiple screws come loose ftom cabinet door hinges and drawers and doors come off. A woodworking furniture shop in Halifax suggested that instead of using larger screws I simply insert 1 or 2 ordinary toothpicks into the holes and reinstall the hinge using the original screw. This worked like a charm. Despite two thousand miles on very rough Newfoundland roads (broke an alloy wheel on TV hitting a pothole at slow speed in a rain storm) we never had another loose screw on any hinges. We also use large reusable twist ties (under $10 at Home Depot) to fasten all cabinet handles and drawers to prevent them from being shaken open.
"Having differences makes a difference"
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:32 PM   #23
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1974 31' Sovereign
Milton , ON
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Originally Posted by 50KIP View Post
I think you mean you are travelling from Dawson Creek, BC on the Alaska Hwy. Dawson City (Yukon) is usually a destination not on the Alaska Hwy. Great trip. Be sure to stop at Laird Hot Springs (a provincial park) for a quick dip ($4).
Dawson City isn't on the Alaska Highway, but you can travel to Alaska via Dawson Creek, BC and/or via Dawson City, Yukon. From Dawson City, Yukon you take a ferry across the Yukon River, and then the Top of the World Highway into Alaska.
Grant Davidson
Milton, ON

1946 Spartan Manor
1954 Va-Ka-Shun-Ette
1964 Overlander
1965 Avion C-10 Truck Camper
1974 Sovereign
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:45 PM   #24
2006 34' Classic
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 261
Fairbanks Alaska and back: 12,000 miles in 3 months.
An Inkay Rock Tamer was my only protection. No front end dings, but my truck also has GM mud flaps. After 10 seasons, I just now had a fresh water tank drain valve get sheared off. I think it was a blown truck's tire shred on the the U.S. Interstates that got me.
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:09 PM   #25
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2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
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Hi, I made mud flaps for my Lincoln and precut bubble insulation for the front of my trailer. I started with Stucco tape, but it came loose in the rain. I switched to Duct tape which is quite difficult to remove. Due to all of the gravel, My trailer still got dinged, but could have been worse without any protection. I also got a spider crack on my front window's rock guard. And a nice rock chip in my Lincoln's windshield. The bubble insulation also will leave marks in the clear coat. It's a must do trip and it was great, but expect to get dinged no matter what you do. If your tires are still good, don't buy new ones because they will get chewed up by the gravel anyway. I bought two trailer tires [started to separate] in Alaska, and on the way home, I bought four new tires for my Lincoln. No sense in tearing up new tires. This trip was over 10,000 miles and for 50 days.

Anyway, we loved the trip, and a few rock dings hasn't stopped us from enjoying our trailer. Last year we went across the country pulling our trailer over 13,000 miles and were gone for 3 1/2 months.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:30 AM   #26
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Los Osos , California
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I'm considering removing and plugging the drain petcock/valve temporarily for the trip. Is there a downside to doing that?
2017 Airstream International Serenity 25FB
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:33 PM   #27
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2012 28' International
Oshawa , Ontario
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 69
Originally Posted by wasafari View Post
Funny thing about that drain, mine got sheared off near Destruction Bay in 2003. Talked to an Airstream rep and showed him what happened, he said it was a poor design and it would be changed. He even took pictures. Apparently they have not gotten around to it yet. It is in an extremely vulnerable position and the little flange they put under it does nothing to protect it. Rocks don't fly straight up, they clobber it from the front side, where the guard should be. Good ideas on also protecting the gas lines too.
We had ours repaired by Fraserway RV in Prince George. Fraserway sold had the original Airstream petcock - it cost $2.95 for the part. They installed the premium version that cost double that - $5.95 and apparently much better.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:33 PM   #28
2006 34' Classic
Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 261
On my old '83 Silver Streak I gave up and replaced the plastic drain valve with a 3/8 inch brass ball valve. Never lost another valve.

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