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Old 03-31-2008, 07:26 AM   #1
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Exclamation Problems on the road...need advice

Alright...we finally made it to Texas. And now it's time to fix a few problems:
1) Our generator wont start from any of the inside buttons, only from the external one(the switch on the generator itself...) What is weird is that we can still shut it off from inside...any ideas?? Is there a fuse or something that might need to be reset ?
2) Our black and grey tank levels don't work...
they constantlty read "empty"... any idea how we can fix that? reset them? or clean them or something?
3) We are in the area between San Antonio and Austin, anyone know of a good RV/Mechanic we can go to and feel safe about them doing the Oil change and other things? I have heard so many horror stories about bad mechanics..a good referal would be nice...
4) Now that we are in "hot" weather...any tips on how to keep the inside of our moho cool, esp. when driving? Seems like the front AC might need some freon or something...any ideas how to do that?

OK..so I hope these questions keep some of you guys busy and not working for a while!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

THANK YOU for your tips and advice.

Chris
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:11 AM   #2
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There is a forum member that lives near where you are. I think his username here is "barkingspider" you might try to send him an email or PM and ask for a local RV repair source.
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:30 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
Alright...we finally made it to Texas. And now it's time to fix a few problems:
1) Our generator wont start from any of the inside buttons, only from the external one(the switch on the generator itself...) What is weird is that we can still shut it off from inside...any ideas?? Is there a fuse or something that might need to be reset ?
This sort of problem sounds like a broken wire, most likely near where the wiring harness from the coach enters the generator compartment. I'm guessing here but I bet you have a 3 wire start/stop circuit and the start wire is broke. Does your 345 have a generator start switch on the instrument cluster above the fridge? Ours does. Something like this can be difficult to find unfortunately. About all you can do is go point to point looking for the broken wire (assuming thats what the problem is)

Quote:
2) Our black and grey tank levels don't work... r
they constantlty read "empty"... any idea how we can fix that? reset them? or clean them or something?
The only thing I can think of might be the fuse that goes from your DC converter to the instrument cluster. Not sure how well the fuses are labeled in your moho but ours had been rewired by the PO and the job was not done very well and it was hard to identify what fuse went where. Bottom line, look for a bad fuse.

Quote:
3) We are in the area between San Antonio and Austin, anyone know of a good RV/Mechanic we can go to and feel safe about them doing the Oil change and other things? I have heard so many horror stories about bad mechanics..a good referal would be nice...
4) Now that we are in "hot" weather...any tips on how to keep the inside of our moho cool, esp. when driving? Seems like the front AC might need some freon or something...any ideas how to do that?
I hope your dash air works! On the front AC can you here the compressor kicking in when you switch it to cool mode? If not then its possible there is no freon or the compressor is busted. If you can hear the compressor kick in then it is a good bed that its low on freon. I'm not sure if its possible to add freon to these units. Hopefully someone else can answer that quesetion.

Quote:
OK..so I hope these questions keep some of you guys busy and not working for a while!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL
Beats going to work this morning...........

Brad
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:34 AM   #4
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There is an authorized Airstream dealer in Buda, Texas. I just had routine service done when I was passing through. Someone who lives in Texas may be able to give you better resources.

Camper Clinic II: 15855 S. Ih-35, Buda, TX, 78610 | Telephone 512-312-1478 | Email Us | Camper Clinic - Texas RV Sales, RV Service, RV Parts, RV Rentals


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Old 03-31-2008, 10:14 AM   #5
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More electrical woes

Seems something somewhere "tripped..." or a fuse is broken:

Monitor system (where all the gages are located -tanks etc...) when I switch to the 'auto battery'... I get NO READING of its level at all.,... and also, when I try to disconnect and/or switch on the chassis battery via the battery disconnect switches...I see no light come on or off.... but I know there is juice in that battery...since I was able to start our engine,.... I feel that maybe all the issues are related... I have checked all the fuses and they are all good.... There is something called an automatic shoreline switch? under my dinnete seat...but have no idea how to reset that or check it...

HELP!
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Old 03-31-2008, 12:08 PM   #6
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Forum member JAXON lives in Austin. He may be able to let you know where a good RV shop is in the area.

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Old 03-31-2008, 01:16 PM   #7
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some fixes...

Well...ok..just fixed the Generator remote start operations....

Finally ... Also, when the gen is runing, all power is good (ie things run on 110) but the Ac power light does not come on .. however, that same light does come on when hooked to shore power... any ideas? Auto/chassis Battery level does not seem to work

I also fixed the battery disconect wire...seems some guys had done the re-wiring of the batteries etc...and was HORRIBLE>.....

now, while I wait for some of you guys to help me with the issues above I will try and see If I can fix the fluid levels issues....
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
Well...ok..just fixed the Generator remote start operations....
What did you find wrong with the remote start system?

Quote:
Finally ... Also, when the gen is runing, all power is good (ie things run on 110) but the Ac power light does not come on .. however, that same light does come on when hooked to shore power... any ideas?
Thats an interesting one. I had thought that light was powered from the Univolt such that if the Univolt was powered up (meaning getting AC from somewhere) then the light was supposed to be on.

There will be an issue if you replace the original Univolt with an aftermarket model that doesn't have the special feed wire to power the light. However I didn't think it was an issue if you had the original Univolt and were running on generator. Hopefully someone else will chime in with info. I'll look through the wiring diagrams I have and see if I can see anything of interest.

Quote:
Auto/chassis Battery level does not seem to work
Battery level? Do you mean voltage level gauge thats in your dash instrument cluster? If its the voltage meter in the dash its possible their is a loose connection on the back of the gauge. Also could be a poor ground wire. Or hopefully not, but it could be a bad gauge.
The instrument cluster on our 310 has been giving me nothing but fits. I think I have a bad ground somewhere but haven't had time to find it.

Just a suggestion here but you might want to disconnect all your batteries if you start poking around under the dash. Easy easy to short stuff out under there. Don't ask how I know this

Quote:
I also fixed the battery disconect wire...seems some guys had done the re-wiring of the batteries etc...and was HORRIBLE>.....
Poor wiring by PO seems to be a common problem on these motorhomes! The good news is once you fix a problem you know its right and if something like that happens again you know where to look.

Quote:
now, while I wait for some of you guys to help me with the issues above I will try and see If I can fix the fluid levels issues....
Fluid level issues? As in low on fluids?!

Brad
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:23 PM   #9
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What did you find wrong with the remote start system?
Two things: A wire got cut off near the battery compartment
and at the Generator itself, two wires were badly corroded at their connections.

Thats an interesting one. I had thought that light was powered from the Univolt such that if the Univolt was powered up (meaning getting AC from somewhere) then the light was supposed to be on.

There will be an issue if you replace the original Univolt with an aftermarket model that doesn't have the special feed wire to power the light. However I didn't think it was an issue if you had the original Univolt and were running on generator. Hopefully someone else will chime in with info. I'll look through the wiring diagrams I have and see if I can see anything of interest.


Battery level?

It's the battery level at the Monitor System (where I have all levels, tanks, batteries , etc..)

Poor wiring by PO seems to be a common problem on these motorhomes! The good news is once you fix a problem you know its right and if something like that happens again you know where to look.

AGREED!!

Fluid level issues? As in low on fluids?!

No, as in Tank levels (ie the fresh water tank level works, but not for Grey and not for Black...)
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:35 PM   #10
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alright...seems that the battery level on the panel is now working... am not sure why..maybe cos the battery was "sooo" low before...

In anycase, one less glitch for now,...
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Old 03-31-2008, 02:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
What did you find wrong with the remote start system?
Two things: A wire got cut off near the battery compartment
and at the Generator itself, two wires were badly corroded at their connections.

You did good tracking that kind of problem down. Cut wires can be the worst sometimes to try and resolve.

Quote:
It's the battery level at the Monitor System (where I have all levels, tanks, batteries , etc..)

Sounds like a fuse problem to me. Considering the other issues you're having you might use a test meter or light and make sure you have +12vdc on the downstream side of each fuse coming off of your DC converter. The original fuse block in our motorhome was a piece of crap. I would get varying voltage readings depending on how long a light or some other device was powered on. Sometimes the connection just gave out until it cooled down. I ended up buying a more modern style of fuse block and replaced it. Works great now!

Quote:
No, as in Tank levels (ie the fresh water tank level works, but not for Grey and not for Black...)
OH yeah I remember you mentioned that in a prior post. Not sure if your 89 will be the same as our 84. I'll poke around the diagrams and if I seem something I'll let you know.

Brad
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Old 03-31-2008, 03:38 PM   #12
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the auto battery level is not working again....arghh.....
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Old 03-31-2008, 04:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
the auto battery level is not working again....arghh.....
Sure sounds like connections or problems with that DC fuse block. Start wiggling connections down there and see if anything changes.

If I had any money to bet I'd bet on that being our problem!

Brad
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:12 PM   #14
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sorry....am not into "wiggling connections"..... can and most likely will, create more probs.... and if it did fix it...would only be temporary...
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