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Old 03-31-2008, 07:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
sorry....am not into "wiggling connections"..... can and most likely will, create more probs.... and if it did fix it...would only be temporary...
Lots of times thats the only way to find a problem. If wiggling causes something to happen at least you know what needs to be fixed. It provides the same basic result as heating and cooling an electical connection.

After reading your question about the Auto battery I dug into my service manual and found that we probably have the same indicator on our 310. The problem on our 310 is all of the labeling has disappeared so its hard to tell what some of the indicators mean. Now that I understand what Auto battery means I'm going to have look at ours this weekend to see if its working or not.

I don't think you're having a grounding problem because if it was then more of your instruments should have been affected.

Good luck!

Brad
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:18 PM   #16
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Chis,

Sounds like you have some corrosion isues at your electrical connections that need to be addressed. I would wager that removing, cleaning corrosion and replacing these DC connections at your fuse panel, one-by-one, would go a long way as a remedy for many of your electrical 'Gremlins'.

Your front roof air has a couple of possibilities: if you are getting fan but no cooling, you could have a fried start capacitor/motor starter or if the compressor is indeed running, you have leaked all or most of your refrigerant charge.

The only roof air units that Airstream used that are re-chargeable were the Bay Breeze models by Armstrong. If you have any other roof unit, like Dometic, Coleman or Carrier, they are hermetically sealed and have no process valves to allow re-charging...and they SHOULD NOT be re-charged! In a case like this, the unit should be replaced.

A simple way to tell if your compressor is working even if the unit is not blowing cold air requires you to get on the roof and remove the A/C shroud. The simple test is to see if the compressor is vibrating and getting warm
(hot).

The more reliable method is to take and amp draw reading from the common wire leading to the compressor with an AC amp clamp. A reading that is significantly lower than the amp draw specification on the unit's data plate for FLA (full load amps, whch should also be compensated for the ambient temperature and humidity) will tell you that the compressor is not working as hard as it should (like it would if it had a full refrigerant charge). Any competant RV tech should be able to perform a test like this.

Let me know if you need some additional help on this one.

Hope this clears things up a little.
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Old 04-01-2008, 07:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler
Lots of times thats the only way to find a problem. If wiggling causes something to happen at least you know what needs to be fixed. It provides the same basic result as heating and cooling an electical connection.
Hey Brad, I know you are right on this one... I just dont want to make things worst...

As for the AC, I am more concerned with the Dash AC not sending out a lot of air... is it normal? Any remedy? Shoudl we be driving with the generator on, and have the Roof AC running ?

THANKS!
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:37 PM   #18
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Hey Lewster...

I have dabbled in a/c repair as an electrician I am around ac installers. Could you not use a saddle valve or sweat on a puncture schrader valve on a ac unit that just needed a re-charge? Most are just R22 as far as I know, and you can use gages to determine the proper charge.

Obviously if a evaporator or condensing coil is leaking one should not re-charge. Say, how is your sprinter a/c holding up? I have a 03 140" High Roof w/106k on it, put the gages on it and it seems to be spot on. The compressor is starting to slightly rattle though, I think I am going to give her a ounce of oil or so.
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:55 PM   #19
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Rivet AC and Other Problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
Hey Brad, I know you are right on this one... I just dont want to make things worst...

As for the AC, I am more concerned with the Dash AC not sending out a lot of air... is it normal? Any remedy? Shoudl we be driving with the generator on, and have the Roof AC running ?

THANKS!
Hi Chris,

Years ago I had a GMC ˝ ton pickup that the blower fan wouldn’t work on high but worked just fine on low, 2, and 3. Is this what you are getting? It turned out that there is a separate feed with and inline fuse from the battery to the blower on a ’73 GMC to supply the blower at high speed. Replacing the fuse made the truck much more comfortable. I don’t know if they did this in the larger chassis, but if they did and you have the same symptoms it is something to investigate.

Saw the photos of the Little Rock stop on your blog. Glad we had a chance to come up. I’m just sorry Susan’s husband Brad was out of town. You would like him, too. He has sent you several good suggestions. I agree with the shake the connection advice. Just don’t do it vigorously, all you are doing is seeing if some corrosion has interfered with the connection. If the wiggle works, then take it loose and do a proper cleaning.
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:19 PM   #20
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gypsychris
Hey Brad, I know you are right on this one... I just dont want to make things worst...

As for the AC, I am more concerned with the Dash AC not sending out a lot of air... is it normal? Any remedy? Shoudl we be driving with the generator on, and have the Roof AC running ?

THANKS!
Chris, I can definitely sympathize with you .

Check out the attached picture:

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The day we picked up our 310 we started having problems with the interior lights. I had to troubleshoot the fuse panel right after we got to the campground that night. I narrowed it down to the fuse block and did what I could to restore power for the night. I had to fiddle with it several times on our trip home from Savannah, GA to Little Rock. If you have to work on your fuse block get used to being in that position

After I finally got the coach lights to work Susan took this picture while I was trying to figure out the connections for the toad lights (we used magnetic lights for that trip).

As for your dash A/C problems join the club. I spent a bunch of evenings over several weeks trying to figure out what was wrong with ours. First thing you want to look for is a vacuum leak. The dampers for your air distribution under the dash is controlled by vacuum. If you get a chance take a picture of your dash vent control and post it. I'd like to see if its the same as ours.

I found several issues with our ducting. The first was one of the repairs the PO had done was to fix a vacuum leak under the dash by cutting the vacuum line that feed all dash instruments and plugging the line. This effectively kept the dash controls from working.

If your dampers are like ours the default position is to NOT blow air out the dash louvers. If you have little or no air coming out of the louvers then there are several different potential problems. Either your engine vacuum system is messed up, one of the vacuum servos is broke or your vacuum control on the dash is not functioning.

On ours I had to replace the vacuum control module because it was busted and also wouldn't turn on the fan.

I'm hoping you just have a vacuum leak. That would be the easiest to fix. There is (or should be) a vacuum reservoir in your engine compartment more or less in the center of the opening up front. I don't think I have a photo handy showing what it looks like but its a round ball about the size of a softball and should have 2 or 3 rubber hoses plugged into it.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

Brad
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Old 04-01-2008, 09:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vswingfield
Hi Chris,

Years ago I had a GMC ˝ ton pickup that the blower fan wouldn’t work on high but worked just fine on low, 2, and 3. Is this what you are getting? It turned out that there is a separate feed with and inline fuse from the battery to the blower on a ’73 GMC to supply the blower at high speed. Replacing the fuse made the truck much more comfortable. I don’t know if they did this in the larger chassis, but if they did and you have the same symptoms it is something to investigate.
At least on the 84 motorhomes this is not how the system is laid out. The dash control is actually a Chrysler part from mid to late 80's vehicles. It has vacuum controls and electric switching built into it. I bought a replacement off of ebay. On ours the fan is I believe 4 speed. Its possible the switch itself is bad. It definitely appears to be cheaply made. The A/C system is a hybrid of parts, some from Chrysler, some from I think Acme and who knows what else.

Quote:
Saw the photos of the Little Rock stop on your blog. Glad we had a chance to come up. I’m just sorry Susan’s husband Brad was out of town. You would like him, too. He has sent you several good suggestions. I agree with the shake the connection advice. Just don’t do it vigorously, all you are doing is seeing if some corrosion has interfered with the connection. If the wiggle works, then take it loose and do a proper cleaning.
Yeah, sorry I wasn't in town to come meet you two. However, if you're traveling around the country and if your plans include passing through Southern California let me know. I'm staying in Pasadena right now and get plenty bored on weekends . Always looking for something to do.

Brad
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariSS
I have dabbled in a/c repair as an electrician I am around ac installers. Could you not use a saddle valve or sweat on a puncture schrader valve on a ac unit that just needed a re-charge? Most are just R22 as far as I know, and you can use gages to determine the proper charge.

Obviously if a evaporator or condensing coil is leaking one should not re-charge. Say, how is your sprinter a/c holding up? I have a 03 140" High Roof w/106k on it, put the gages on it and it seems to be spot on. The compressor is starting to slightly rattle though, I think I am going to give her a ounce of oil or so.
Any piercing valve WILL eventually leak! You could use one to evacuate the R-22, then replace it with a braze-on Shrader valve (one on the suction side and one on the discharge side), then purge the system with dry nitrogen TWICE, then re-charge with the correct amount of R-22 and hope that you haven't create any internal scale from the soldering that will block a capillary tube....................

A scenario lke this is precisely why the roof-top manufacturers no longer support actions like this and the reason that we don't change compressors any more. It's more cost effective to replace the unit with a new one (from a warranty stand-point) with a new one with a 3 year warranty.

Of course, YMMV and you are free to do with your unit what you wish!
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler
At least on the 84 motorhomes this is not how the system is laid out. The dash control is actually a Chrysler part from mid to late 80's vehicles. It has vacuum controls and electric switching built into it. I bought a replacement off of ebay. On ours the fan is I believe 4 speed. Its possible the switch itself is bad. It definitely appears to be cheaply made. The A/C system is a hybrid of parts, some from Chrysler, some from I think Acme and who knows what else.

Brad
Good. I figured that was the case, with Acme being the primary source. I always thought that the GMC setup was “unusual.” Other words come to mind, but I can say “unusual” on the forum.
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