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Old 10-06-2013, 02:20 PM   #15
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Always check the drain and vent lines for space between the pipe and the plywood floor. That is a major entry point in many Airstreams. On my new 2014, I found that the kitchen sink drain pipe going into the floor had a gap of 1/4 to 3/4 inch around it where it goes through the floor to the tank. They just cut a big hole in the floor, run the pipe and leave it as a mouse highway from outside to inside. I stuffed brass wool in the gap and hope it is the only one, but there probably are more under the shower where I cannot get to them. It is something which AS should have addressed years ago, but has not, as the exact same issue has been in all of the 14 or 15 Airstream products I have owned, from a 1954 to my 2014. I had somehow hoped that they would have done something different by now, but noooooo... same old flooring holes, too large and gaps not filled after the pipes are run.
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:46 AM   #16
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Marshall , Virginia
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Some other campers told us to use Dryer Sheets. I stuck them in every drawer any everywhere imaginable. We had no problems with the mice last year. Just for what it's worth.
This absolutely works! Even in our home we put them at all pipe entries etc. Really works!
We put them at every pipe entry, cabinets, and closets in our trailer. Absolutely hands down- one of the best suggestions we discovered
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:07 AM   #17
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
seattle , Washington
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"Mouse moat"

I thought I may offer something we discovered by accident and then built to keep the critters out of our Argosy during winter storage, at least.
We have a building with a concrete floor to store our coach in. The mice come in droves when the weather turns. While moving a role of leftover metal flashing during fall cleaning we discovered a dead mouse in the center of the 18" high roll. Poor guy couldn't jump that high?! We decided it was worth the experiment, and unrolled the flashing roll around the perimeter of the Argosy. We then took scrap 2x4's and laid them along the inside of the metal, flat on the floor, then screwed sheet metal screws through the metal from the outside to give the thin wall some rigidity. Worked great! It stands on its own, and we simply wound the two ends around each other at the trailer tongue then duck taped the top and bottoms to complete the circuit. It's an 18" galvanized wall they haven't been able to get over. I baited with good portions of peanut butter inside and out and the perimeter outside the "wall" was eaten clean overnight. Inside was untouched. Hence, the "Mouse Moat"! No mice last year! This year we will add dryer sheets for good measure. Give it a try. good luck!-Erin
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:48 PM   #18
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Do you have a picture???

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Originally Posted by beewranglers View Post
I thought I may offer something we discovered by accident and then built to keep the critters out of our Argosy during winter storage, at least.
We have a building with a concrete floor to store our coach in. The mice come in droves when the weather turns. While moving a role of leftover metal flashing during fall cleaning we discovered a dead mouse in the center of the 18" high roll. Poor guy couldn't jump that high?! We decided it was worth the experiment, and unrolled the flashing roll around the perimeter of the Argosy. We then took scrap 2x4's and laid them along the inside of the metal, flat on the floor, then screwed sheet metal screws through the metal from the outside to give the thin wall some rigidity. Worked great! It stands on its own, and we simply wound the two ends around each other at the trailer tongue then duck taped the top and bottoms to complete the circuit. It's an 18" galvanized wall they haven't been able to get over. I baited with good portions of peanut butter inside and out and the perimeter outside the "wall" was eaten clean overnight. Inside was untouched. Hence, the "Mouse Moat"! No mice last year! This year we will add dryer sheets for good measure. Give it a try. good luck!-Erin
I followed everything until you said you "duck taped the top and bottoms to complete the circuit"....not sure what that means....sounds like a great idea though. paula
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #19
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1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
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Sorry, didn't get back to this site til' now. I just meant that we took the two roll ends and wound one around the tongue to stand it up, then let the rest of the roll stand right up against it, alomost creating a "v" where they meet. Then to hold them tight up against each other I took small pieces of duct tape and taped at the top and bottom at the point the rolls come together. I didn't want to cut the metal and tape an overlap as I was afraid it may create the one point of solid traction from top to bottom for some little feet to scale. This way it's all metal, top to bottom, and the junction mimicks a couple of spools standing together. I didn't photograph it, but will.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:51 PM   #20
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I had trouble with mice getting under the hood of my PU and chewing the wires. Always seemed to be the wires that controlled the 4wd function. I finally wrapped aluminum foil around the wires and tied dryer sheets at different spots. So far so good.
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