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Old 04-25-2013, 10:00 PM   #1
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Normal to have issues with new Airstream

So we picked up our Airstream a couple months ago and it is out first camper ever. We took it out camping for the first time last weekend and found out a few more issues in addition to the original ones we found. I listed them below. Just reaching out to see if this a normal sort of break in period. Thanks so much!

Rivet separated on inside sink window.
Inside rivet fell out above door.
Black water indicator always says empty.
Subwoofer is dented.
One of the burners won't light unless I use a match.
Freezer door stainless steel popping out.
Both windows above sofa won't stay open on lowest level (they just pop closed).
Galley sink drips, especially when towing.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:10 PM   #2
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Actually not a terrible "punch list" for a rig that sat that long. All should be addressed under warranty. Ia am a little surprised at the galley drip while towing -- are you saying it drips with the pump "off"?

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Old 04-25-2013, 10:13 PM   #3
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Yes, you will go thru a period of fixing things under warranty.

Rivet Back to dealer or to Jackson Center.
Black Water, calibrate sensors. Read manual may have to go to dealer.
Subwoofer, ask for replacement from factory thru dealer.
Call the manufacture of the stove Customer Service.
Call the manufacture of the Refer unit Customer Service.
If you have the same windows I have you have to be sure to slide the rods into the lowest plastic stops.
Dripping sink sounds like a bad seat, call Customer Service of the faucet manufacture.

Or bring it back for warranty service.

I have had 2 new ones and had to go thru a few startup issues with both. It takes a while to get a unit dialed in they are hand built. I fix most issues myself the Appliance supplies will send you parts under warranty and youtube has many videos, just depends on how you feel about doing your own warranty work.

What are you towing with and which hitch, to rough of a ride will pop rivets.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:20 PM   #4
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If you are expecting an RV (or boat, for that matter) to have the quality you've come to expect in a car or truck, you'll be disappointed.

I wouldn't be worried about a rivet or two popping as the rig "settles". Pop in a new one and be done with it.

Sub should be repaired. Careless install.

Not sure I fully understand one burner not lighting.....gas tube alignment, maybe.

Freezer issue not AS, but unacceptable by Dometic.

Are you sure you are getting the window arms fully seated in the slot?

Faucet drip while traveling isn't unusual, even if you have the pump off. (which you should always do...for sure)
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
Actually not a terrible "punch list" for a rig that sat that long. All should be addressed under warranty. Ia am a little surprised at the galley drip while towing -- are you saying it drips with the pump "off"?

Mike
Yep it drips with pump off and I relieve the pressure as well by turning pump off and then opening faucet for a few seconds. It is a noticeable amount of water.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:30 PM   #6
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I am definitely getting the window arms seated. Then they just slowly shut while the arms are still locked in the lowest position.

The range is odd. I think perhaps it is not getting the spark to ignite. I tried pulling it apart and putting the burner back together but still doesn't work.

We are pulling with a 2013 Silverado 2500HD with a WD Reese hitch. No rough towing thus far.

The faucet is bothersome as the faucet can shift and then there is water all over counter when towing. Also will slowly drip when parked and pump is on. I will check into it being seated properly as suggested.

I will look through the manual again about calibrated black water sensor. I didn't see that anywhere when I read through it before.

Thanks all for your guidance and it is comforting to know that these issues are not too abnormal
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:38 PM   #7
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Faucet leaking while parked is not normal. Moen or Delta? Might be easiest to go to Ace or HD and get a kit...if you're handy.

I have had pretty good success with tank calibration. IMO, use the steps in the manual, but wait several hours between steps. Seem to need a constant pressure for awhile to get it right.

You should be able to see the spark at each burner.

The only other thing with the windows is slop at the window end of the rod?????
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:01 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Faucet leaking while parked is not normal. Moen or Delta? Might be easiest to go to Ace or HD and get a kit...if you're handy.

I have had pretty good success with tank calibration. IMO, use the steps in the manual, but wait several hours between steps. Seem to need a constant pressure for awhile to get it right.

You should be able to see the spark at each burner.

The only other thing with the windows is slop at the window end of the rod?????
It's a Moen. And I am not very handy but learning.

The windows didn't seem to have any more play than the other windows. So strange.

I didn't check for the spark. I should also mention that once the burner is lit I can turn it off and relight it with the spark knob for about ten minutes. After that I need match again. But I will check for spark when cold and also after being lit manually. Thanks!

I just read through the confusing Micropulse PDF. My main question is how do I know when the sensor is just covered for empty and when the tank is full? Reading that is making me think how accurate the grey one is also. Last thing I want is overfilled tanks!

As am aside. What happens if the black or gray tanks are overfilled? I assume the black one approaches the toilet. But do the drains back up if gray is overfilled?
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:22 PM   #9
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On the burner issue, lift the top of the stove up and make sure the spark wiring is connected to the burner in question. A wore runs to each burner. On ours, the wire on one burner in particular seems works loose from time to time and it won't light because there's no spark to it.

Popped rivets are not uncommon...can be caused by rough ride, unbalanced running gears stiff hitch set-up.

If youi faucet is dripping while traveling, your water pump must be on ... I'd recommend not leaving the water pump on while traveling or you might end up with a flood if something comes loose or a faucet accidentally gets turned on.

The tank sensors need to be calibrated as others have indicated.

The dented subwoofer needs to be replaced.

Everything you mention should be covered under warranty.

It's not bad stuff...get them fixed and enjoy yourself!
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:40 PM   #10
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We had a lot of stuff go wrong during our first year, like the entire cupboard above the bed falling out while driving through Wisconsin, and the batteries not recharging properly even after several replacements.

Unfortunately a bunch of stuff happened while we were far from home. Fortunately Bambi was under the dealership warranty for the first year, and they (Can-Am, London Ontario) were really good about fixing everything for free.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:07 AM   #11
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You are not alone....Welcome Aboard.

PDI's are extremely varied depending on the quality of the dealership.
QC has improved incrementally over the years...

A LITTLE HISTORY….. MY WIFE SANDRA AND I HAVE BEEN STREAMING SINCE 1989. OUR FIRST WAS A 1963 22 FT. SAFARI. (kind of wish now it was still sitting on the pad) WE PURCHASED OUR 2003 25' CLASSIC IN JUNE OF 2004. BUILD DATE FEB. O3. NOW FOR THE GOOD STUFF.....

ITEMS NOTED BEFORE TAKING DELIVERY THAT WERE FIXED BY THE DEALER.

1) BOTH FRONT SEGMENT PROTECTORS SCRATCHED AND DENTED.

2) REAR BUMPER COVERS CRACKED.

3) ACCESS DOOR UNDER BATHROOM SINK WOULD NOT OPEN, REPAIRED BUT SIEZED SOLID AGAIN BY THE TIME WE GOT HOME FROM THE DEALER.

4) PANTRY SLIDE OUT OFF TRACK, REPAIRED BUT FAILED AGAIN WHEN LOADED ON OUR FIRST TRIP. Took pantry out, removed slide tracks, removed all ball bearings and divided equally between tracks, AS sent replacement tracks, holding as spares until needed.

NOW FOR THE Q/C AND PDI STUFF... IT'S IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT ALL CONCERNS LISTED WERE REPAIRED BY MYSELF. THE SELLING DEALER HAD CLOSED.

1) THREE OF THE CLEARANCE LIGHT BULBS.

2) TWO STORAGE COMPARTMENT LIGHT BULBS.

3) TWO SCREEN DOOR PROTECTOR SCREWS MISSED THEIR MARK.

4) BAD VIBRATION IN LEFT FRONT SPEAKER, AGAIN MOUNTING SCREWS MISSED THEIR MARK. SCREWS REPLACED WITH VELCRO TAPE. CLOSE OUT PANEL NOW EASILY REMOVED.

5) WATER PUMP FAILURE CAUSED BY A SEPARATED WIRE INSIDE THE INSULATION WHERE WIRING ENTERS THE PUMP HOUSING….. FAILURE OCCURRED ON OUR FRIST CAMPING TRIP.

6) A MULTITUDE OF PINHOLES IN ACCORDION SHADE OVER SINK.

7) WATER LEAK AT SHOWER MANIFOLD CAUSED BY COLD WATER LINE BEING TOO SHORT.

8) THREE PLASTIC LATCHES FOR CLOSET DOORS AND TWO STORAGE COMPARTMENTS INSTALLED POORLY, MISALIGNMENT, CAUSING LATCH FAILURE.

9) STOVE IGNITER KNOB CRACKED/FAILURE.

10) BATHROOM MIRROR LATCH.

11) … HOLD DOWN SCREWS FOR CONVERTER MISSED THEIR MARK. SLOPPY/NOISEY WATER PUMP INSTALL & WIRING.

12) WATER HEATER<> THERMOSTAT NOT CALIBRATED<>SCALDING TEMP.

13) FRIDGE INTERIOR LIGHT INOP, SWITCH ARM CRACKED

14) KITCHEN SINK SPRAY HANDLE CRACKED,LEAKING WHEN USED.

15) CONSTRUCTION DEBRIS FOUND THRU-OUT TRAILER. BIC LIGHTER & CANDY WRAPPER UNDER RUG IN STREETSIDE REAR COMPARTMENT.

16) AC SHROUD, SKYLIGHT, FF VENT ALL CRACKED AT SCREW HOLES FROM IMPROPER INSTALL.

17) BLACK TANK VENT LEAKING, POOR INSTALL/CAULKING.

18) WATER LINE FITTING UNDER BATHROOM SINK CROSS-THREADED, LEAKING.

19) FILIFORM CORROSION

20) CLEARCOAT PEALING FROM ENTRY DOOR HINGES AND BATTERY DOOR SURROUNDS.

AIRSTREAM DID SEND US THE NECESSARY ITEMS TO MAKE THE REPAIRS ON SOME ITEMS:
WATER PUMP, SHADE, LATCHES FOR CLOSET AND STORAGE DOORS. NEW
DOOR FOR BATHROOM ACCESS, SLIDE FOR PANTRY.
OTHER NECESSARY ITEMS PURCHASED FROM CAMPING WORLD.
I NEVER RECEIVED A CSI REPORT FROM THE FACTORY, OR ANY FOLLOW-UP AT ALL.
THE FACTORY QC WAS LACKING, BUT THE DEALER MUST ASSUME SOME OF THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR A VERY POOR PDI. WELL I GUESS THAT JUST ABOUT COVERS IT, EXCEPT TO SAY I WAS MORE THAN A LITTLE DISAPPOINTED IN THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE!
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas_G View Post
It's a Moen. And I am not very handy but learning.

The windows didn't seem to have any more play than the other windows. So strange.

I didn't check for the spark. I should also mention that once the burner is lit I can turn it off and relight it with the spark knob for about ten minutes. After that I need match again. But I will check for spark when cold and also after being lit manually. Thanks!

I just read through the confusing Micropulse PDF. My main question is how do I know when the sensor is just covered for empty and when the tank is full? Reading that is making me think how accurate the grey one is also. Last thing I want is overfilled tanks



As am aside. What happens if the black or gray tanks are overfilled? I assume the black one approaches the toilet. But do the drains back up if gray is overfilled?
Yes, the drain will back up if the gray tank is overfilled. You can just look in the shower to check. The water will back up there first. My sensor for the black water works on and off. I can check the level by just looking in the tank---not always pleasant but handy---

KDS
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas_G View Post
It's a Moen. And I am not very handy but learning.

The windows didn't seem to have any more play than the other windows. So strange.

I didn't check for the spark. I should also mention that once the burner is lit I can turn it off and relight it with the spark knob for about ten minutes. After that I need match again. But I will check for spark when cold and also after being lit manually. Thanks!
This is all fairly typical stuff and you should plan on a trip to the dealer for warranty work on all of it. Expect several such trips before the warranty expires, mostly as you notice new things, but to a lesser extent as new things break.

Quote:
I just read through the confusing Micropulse PDF. My main question is how do I know when the sensor is just covered for empty and when the tank is full?
Just use empty for empty. For the black tank be sure you don't overfill it for full as this is a common cause of miscalibration. Just fill it until the water is within 1/2" or so of the top wall of the tank -- you can see by looking through the toilet. If you fill until there's water coming up through the toilet bowl then you'll end up with the indicator at 1/4 when the tank is nearly full.

Quote:
Reading that is making me think how accurate the grey one is also. Last thing I want is overfilled tanks!

As am aside. What happens if the black or gray tanks are overfilled? I assume the black one approaches the toilet. But do the drains back up if gray is overfilled?
Black tank full then the toilet won't drain, a rare problem unless you're parked somewhere where you can dump greywater on the ground.

Grey tank overflows into the shower when it's full. Not a huge problem since the mess is contained. The fresh water tank is sized so that in practice it's unusual to overflow the greywater tank unless you have city water connected but no sewer connection, or have refilled the freshwater tank but haven't dumped.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:36 AM   #14
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It is discouraging to have issues with anything bought brand new ... we have been through that as well. However, our experience with AS has been MUCH better than with two other brands. Hang in there it will get better.
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