Need some winter advice

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by philipsinewe

Sorry for possible confusion. We are heading to the Carolinas where it is supposed to possibly be mid 20 at night, 40s on up day.

Please update us when you get back, about the actual weather conditions incl. wind, the measures you took to prevent freeze-ups, and your (hopefully) success in warding off the cold. As I mentioned earlier, any pipes located in the extremities of your rear/side storage areas may be most vulnerable. In the back of our FC20 those pipes would probably freeze overnight in 25 F conditions.

YMMV -- "Your Model May Vary!"

Have fun! We spent a couple of weeks in Hatteras one Spring many years ago -- a beautiful corner of the world (although you may not be heading that far east).

Peter

[Vitaver]

Can you please tell us the make and model of your space heaters? Thanks!

[tevake]

I'm going into my third winter of full timing in my 345 Moho.
Most is covered above, but for this winter I desided to address the leaky Windows, they make it a constant struggle to maintain any warmth inside.

I bought a window film kit at the local hardware store. It has sheets of pretty durable yet clear plastic film, and a roll of double sided tape. Putting the tape on the inner flange of the window sill surround, the stretch the film over the entire window opening. And you have significantly improved the weather tightness of the interior. The heaters seem to be working much less of the time and the interior temps stay more constant.

I've so far installed it on both opening windows in the bedroom and a couple of Windows in the living area. May cover more as the colder part of winter is still in front of us. Have just dealt with temps to the low 20 at night so far.
Seeing big improvement, I'm even thinking of covering the pano Windows in the
Bedroom. You can feel the cold sliding from under the curtains in the back.

One question yet to be answered I'd how well will this clear tape will come off after the winter is over. But at this point Im happy.

Cheers Richard

[m.hony]

You will be fine, but a trailer in winter is a cold place.
The best seat in a Classic 30 when it's cold outside is on the couch in front of the 2 furnace vents in the bottom of the side of the cabinet under the sink and magazine rack.

[MelGoddard]

I have a question about winter storage.
Will a dehumidifier withstand the cold if left in an FC for the winter?
Amazon has some nice ones, but will they stand up to variable temperatures, from 0 Deg.C to " Heart Attack Blue??

Trailer Trash. ....."

[HowieE]

The limitation of the cheap dehumidifiers in colder weather is the fact that the evaporator has a tendency to ice over. Once iced over they do nothing except use electricity.

If I had to use one in cold weather I would put a tap valve on the suction line and add refrigerant to raise the suction pressure above the point of potential freezing. Dehumidifiers are factory set assuming there will be a high enough ambient temperature to prevent a frozen coil.

[Wolf Alaska]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

What about the dump pipes and valves for grey and black tanks.

You raise a good point. Most RV's, any water in the holding tanks will have these pipes full of water & against the valves. A freeze can break the pipes & ruin the valves. Replacing the drain pipes can be easy or difficult.

My Winnebago ONE trailer has remote valves within the heated area. No water is in the drain pipes except when dumping.

Each owner must carefully examine the RV & see how much of the water system is exposed to cold. Some RV's can be used in cold weather, if the owner is wise & willing to do what's necessary, time & again. Like dumping tanks every night before sun goes down & putting a gallon of blue A/F down drains to each tank.
What's necessary is all dependent on how RV is built. Above tips are not req'd
on W1.

Using an RV in cold wx is risky. It can be done. If the bad thing happens, it can be costly & even ruin the RV.

Let's Roll !
Wolf

[HowieE]

No

If you have drained the tanks, and you will not get all the water out, there is no problem with that amount of water in the pipe or against the valve.

You are tilting at windmills.

Ice is only a problem when it is confined in all directions. 1/2 of water lying in a 4 in diameter pipe is not w problem.

[gsmithii]

Our typical experience winter camping has been in overnight temperatures at or below freezing to in the teens. A few thoughts in addition to above:
1) Always take a freeze seriously and at minimum disconnect and drain the campground FW hose. After draining I leave the hose where it can be readily reattached;
2) If you disconnect campground FW be sure your onboard FW tank is full - daily. If the campground spigot freezes having ample onboard water is important;
3) For those freezes in the teens it will help to dump and flush the black tank and put a bit of RV antifreeze at the knife valve. Same for gray tank.
4) Using the house furnace is our preferred heat source for really cold nights although I will set the thermostat comfortably low and use an electric space heater for partial heat.

There may be more but that would be a good first start. Boon docking in winter takes more prep since the house furnace eats battery and propane. We use Mr Heater Buddy until bedtime - well ventilated -, turn it off and use the house furnace set low for overnight. No other heat beside the house furnace when sleeping or you could wake up dead.

[m.hony]

Good advice/good plan^

[Wolf Alaska]

Howie you are maybe right if it is a winterized RV.

The subject being discussed is an RV in use during freezing wx & having exposed drain pipes with water stacked down to the valves.

After some use of the sinks, shower, & toilet; the exposed pipes will be full ! BUT, they started the night full of blue Anti-Freeze rated to -20 or -25. Good chance the plumbing will survive if water usage is only 5 to 10 gallons per tank during the night. It's OK to continue to use the tanks the next day until full if OAT is above freezing. Then, dump the tanks before sundown & again add a gallon of blue A/F to each tank if the night is below freezing.

That's what I do if I'm using my 32'Featherlite SURV in cold wx.
Anyone can do what they want to do with their own RV. As far as I'm concerned.

Howie, I think you were providing a disservice to the fellow who's asking about protecting the drain pipes & valves. My advice is excellent, technically sound, prudent and field tested and proven. What you said is only your opinion. You are entitled to it. I recommend you keep none helpful comments like that to yourself & not confuse people who are asking for helpful info. Which I provided.

Let's Roll !
Wolf

[HowieE]

It is not my intent to post misleading information but rather dis spell those all to often myths that permeate the Forum.

In you position did you consider Ford's early twenty century water jacket patent that revolutionized the hit and miss engine industry or the law of physics known as the latent heat of fusion. I offer those and my 40 years of industrial property supervision. The first will explain why a small amount of water in the dump valve piping will not cause a problem and the second coupled with the thermal mass of the trailer explains the time delay in freezing.

To date I have received some 332 thanks from members for my comments. I have to assume they found them accurate.

[Troutboy]

I think you are both correct. If the pipes are not full as Howlie mentions, then freeze won't be an issue. However, if you have been using the black and grey enough, say boon docking and the tanks are 1/4 to 3/4 full, I would assume the drain pipes would be full and against the valve. In this latter case, if the tanks couldn't be dumped, then I don't think the AS heat would keep the valves from freezing. I don't see any heat trace on the valves, and the forced air heat wouldn't seem to help.

So I guess if one were in the latter situation, you would have to use the blue or pick stuff to prevent the freeze.




Thx
Troutboy, aka Rich