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Old 04-06-2015, 12:47 PM   #1
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Leveling Tandem Tools

So, we have a tandem axel trailer and have had it now for 1.5 years or so...and now realize that there are situations where we need to raise up the low side of the trailer quite a bit to make things level...luckily over the weekend my AS neighbors had these little ramps:

Ramble RV Levelers, Set of 2 - Four Corners D10-171 - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World

So what I did was use the two ramps, pull up enough onto them, wife carefully inserted the 4 stacked high lynx leveler blocks in between the two tires on ground, then rode onto both stacks of level blocks for both tires...

Then I used ground chocks on the other size and pounded those in tight with a hammer...I did not have the x-chocks, or rotochocks, or whatever brand to use on the other side unfortunately, did not have a problem, but makes me worried to think much about it really.

Anyway, at first I thought for a moment:

"well Ill just level up using one of the tires/axels! I have 2 bags of these level blocks, should be able to do it."

...but my AS buddies said its a bad idea to leave it up like that over the weekend on a single axel...thus the route we took.

That got me to wondering...how many blocks high until I should do the same for both tires? Come to think of it, I suppose it should be for both tires all the time?

If it were a single axle, it would be easy enough, but getting both on the same level seems tricky when leveling in a relatively more extreme situation.

I feel the best option for me is to simply buy these leveling ramps and ride up on the blocks as I did last weekend, then get those tandem wheel chocks...

I searched the forums and found little on this subject surprisingly...which made me wonder if I flubbed the search parameters.

Anyway, wanted some input from the experienced folks on here before I spend more money on more leveling stuff.
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Old 04-06-2015, 01:26 PM   #2
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I am not sure if this is answering your question or not, but we use the Anderson Levelers for both tires on the side needing leveled. Merely put them in front or back of each tire and pull/back up on them. Get about 4 inches of adjustment equally on each tire and the put the wedge that comes with them in. The chock tires and you are good to go. If need more that four inches raised, a piece of wood or the logos can be built up and then put the Andersons on it. It's quick and easy. I level quickly by myself all of the time.
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:36 PM   #3
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Somehow I worry those Anderson's would not hold up...how long have you used them?


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Old 04-06-2015, 02:38 PM   #4
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Somehow I worry those Anderson's would not hold up...how long have you used them?
They hold up and they're great. These things are pretty solid. Best investment to date. No lego blocks for me. (Admittedly I haven't had mine that long, but I mean they're solid ABS plastic, going to last a long time)
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:39 PM   #5
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I use the Andersens also with our 10,500lb 34, and have been using them for about a year with good results. They seem to be holding up just fine.
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:46 PM   #6
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The Anderson's seem to be the only all in one solution for the tandem axels

Do you all think once they are chocked they are solid?

I guess if boondocking on softer ground you can still use them with something else to sit on like my lynx level blocks


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Old 04-06-2015, 02:52 PM   #7
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I have used them for about a year during which we traveled basically three to four months all together. Hold up very well. When you put the chock under Anderson when lifted, very solid. I still use tire chocks between tires too. On softer ground, use the linx blocks as base. Suggestion is to always pull your trailer connection from TV so your trailer brakes won't be engaging when backing, if backing on them so the tire rolls up on them freely.
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Old 04-06-2015, 02:54 PM   #8
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Among other jobs I ran a plastics company, ABS was one product we worked with the Mississippi EPA or whatever they were where we had two plants told us "plastics have a half life of 125,000 years; my engineers said "probably right", so the Andersons should work out ok.
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:07 PM   #9
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I try to live by the KISS rule ( where I'm the last "S"). I use a couple of pressure treated 2 x 6's cut 2' long and a couple of shorter ones. I drive up onto them and they solve about 80% of my leveling needs. For the times I need more I made some blocks out of 3/4" plywood and 2x3's. The plywood cut 5" wide and about 2.5' long with the 2x3's vertical and plywood top & bottom. 2 of them interlock and form a platform 5" wide and 5' long approx. ( length is custom made) to drive up on when I need more height. These store easily in the pullout bumper compartment on my AS. I use the short 2x6's to form a ramp to pull up onto. So far I have not run into any situation needing more adjustment than I can make with these.
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Old 04-06-2015, 03:59 PM   #10
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Another vote here for the Andersen's, Pharmgeek. Yes, you want to lift both tires on the low side and the Andersen's couldn't be simpler or more accurate with up to 4" of lift. There's a special chock that comes with them to slide under the other side of them and they are rock solid.

5 out of 5 stars from my perspective.
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:02 PM   #11
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I use either the Legos or wood, whichever I pull out of the truck bed first. Jim
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Old 04-06-2015, 04:17 PM   #12
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I use 2x8 painted blue [easy to wash dirt off], short pcs. under stabilizer jacks and aluminum stand for power jack, longer to support both wheels, heavy rubber chocks that semi trailers use, you will not be able to pull over them, & they are not exp. I tow with pickup so no hassle stowing them. Bill
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:34 PM   #13
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Here's a pic showing the other part of the chock. If I had needed to, I could have driven further forward to catch more of the curve and get up to 4" of lift - then those other parts on the left side sort of slide under and make a solid chock. Couldn't be easier!

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Old 04-06-2015, 07:06 PM   #14
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Would just need to find 90 bucks (2x 45 each) - ouch

We are broke for like the next year - after that funds free up significantly

I may for now find a way to fashion a couple of DIY wood ramps to get me onto my Lego blocks- ideas ?

Those Anderson's look like what I will want eventually!


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Old 04-06-2015, 07:12 PM   #15
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Hmmm - wonder if a pair of 4x4 hardwood blocks could be machined in similar fashion?

Just noodling....
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:23 PM   #16
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I use Lego blocks just because they don't care if I use them under the wheels, feet, or jack. You can make ramps out of them and will last my forever. They come in a nice carrying bag so you can store them away with clean stuff. And you can usually find some on sale for when you forget one or two somewhere. Jim


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Old 04-06-2015, 07:26 PM   #17
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Would just need to find 90 bucks (2x 45 each) - ouch

We are broke for like the next year - after that funds free up significantly

I may for now find a way to fashion a couple of DIY wood ramps to get me onto my Lego blocks- ideas ?

Those Anderson's look like what I will want eventually!
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:35 AM   #18
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Wood is cheap. Jim
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:14 AM   #19
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The Anderson's are around $40 per pair.

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Old 04-07-2015, 07:29 AM   #20
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for 40 bucks I believe you get only one leveler and one of the chocks....you kneed two for tandem axles so 80 bucks is the price tag.

Jim Flower - I have legos, but when you need to prop up 3-5 inches on the low side, the legos seem difficult (or impossible?) by themselves to effectively prop both wheels up? as such, one needs some form of ramps to get onto the legos...OR just use the Anderson type...or use a wood crafted wedge type of ramp....

Assuming I am thinking about all this correctly.

I have nothing I want to sale right now (which I am kinda proud of), so Ill figure out how to make due before figuring out what I want to do. I mean I could spend 80 bucks, but I am trying for the next 12 months or so to really stop any unnecessary spending (except for camping reservations )
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