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Old 09-07-2017, 12:32 PM   #1
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Leveling Airstream

We just purchased our 2018 Classic 30. Comes with auto jacks.

We recently had great difficulty leveling. The undulation of the pad was down in front and sideways. I tried lego blocks, no help. I finally had to reconnoiter a new spot and move there. Any other solutions out there?
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:42 PM   #2
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The jacks are only for stabilizing the rig. What you want to do is use those lego blocks to drive the trailer tires on to level the trailer side-to-side. Then your trailer jack is used to level front-to-back after you unhitch.

After getting level, then the stabilizer jacks are put down to keep things a little more stable as you guys walk around and move inside the trailer. The stabilizer jacks are only meant to be a "snug fit" in contact with the ground. I'm probably a little OCD, but I typically adjust the jacks after a day or two in a site to account for waste tanks filling, everyone in a bunk and being still at the time, etc.

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Old 09-07-2017, 01:25 PM   #3
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If the site slopes diagonally so that you've got to elevate three wheels to get them up to the level of the highest wheel, the "Lego Blocks" are the best way to do that.

There are leveling apps for iPhones and Android smartphones that will allow you to lay the phone down on the floor of the trailer and determine how high each low side needs to be raised using the phone's own sensors.. You can set the phone right next to the door so you can see the screen from outside.

DaveMC is right about the jacks. I've seen folks destroy their stabilizer jacks trying to use them as levelers. They're not designed to lift the weight of the trailer, only to prevent teeter-tottering and/or bouncing on the suspension as people move from front to back or from side to side in the trailer. The suspension and the tongue jack are still the load-bearing devices.
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:52 PM   #4
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I moved from the lynx lego blocks to Anderson levelers. I like them better - just stick them under the wheel and roll onto the levelers until level. Fast and easy.

I use my iPhone (built-in compass app) to confirm when we are level.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products...r-leveler.aspx
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:58 PM   #5
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Hi

If the site is whacked enough to give you leveling problems, it probably also is one that needs good chocking on the wheels. It's really easy to get caught up in leveling and forget about the safety side of things. A quick walk around just about any campsite will show you *lots* of examples.

How many lego blocks are "to many" probably varies from area to area in the country. To me, if you are over three or four blocks under the wheels, that's getting a bit exciting.

Part of this can also be how you are parked on the site. In some cases it's a constant slope. In a lot of cases there are lumps and dips. Doing a quick check of what's what while still hooked up is a good idea. With the TV (and WD) still hooked up it will never be a perfect test. It will give you some idea though.

Lots of fun !!

Bob
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:24 PM   #6
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I too put in a vote for the Anderson Levelers, you just drive up on them and stop when level side to side. Only had them slip once on wet fine loose gravel, on 2nd attempt they didn't.
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Old 09-07-2017, 09:30 PM   #7
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TY both
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Old 09-11-2017, 06:53 PM   #8
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Anderson Leveler & Chock Kit

We chucked the Lego blocks except for using them under the stabilizing pads.

We now use the Anderson Levels & chocks which you back up onto and level off in mere seconds! You simply MUST check these out! They sell them in one or two packs. We use two.

As the trailer is backed on to the levelers, I have a level on the counter inside the door and as soon as the bubble is dead on I yell "Stop!" Chock it and you're done!

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...derson+leveler
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:32 PM   #9
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I too use Anderson. Quick and easy.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:07 PM   #10
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When I first started trailering I used scrap wood blocks to level side to side, 3/4" and 1 1/2" thick.

I have a set of those stackable lego blocks that I use now. They have an expire date due to plastic degradation from UV light and rough use. I suppose the other plastic chocks and blocks have this same issue.

I'm going back to wood.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:42 PM   #11
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The skeptic in me says if I need to pull up to the 4in level, or even 3 inch area, there really isn't much of a "chock" in front of the tire if youre parking on a site that also slopes back to front.

Started using the lego chock that fits onto the lego below it and it holds very tight. Actually works great when not using the levelers as it gives it a good starting angle to get under the tire.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:51 PM   #12
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Leveling Airstream

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred L View Post
The skeptic in me says if I need to pull up to the 4in level, or even 3 inch area, there really isn't much of a "chock" in front of the tire if youre parking on a site that also slopes back to front.

Started using the lego chock that fits onto the lego below it and it holds very tight. Actually works great when not using the levelers as it gives it a good starting angle to get under the tire.


I chock the opposite side as well with a $10 pair of yellow plastic chocks....... I had to do the same thing when I used lynx logo blocks because even with the matching orange wheel chicks that are part of the system I could never get them to wedge in well enough....
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:12 PM   #13
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I use andersons, they are awesome. Paired it with the Levelmate Pro and leveling is cake. It's an app that tells you when you are good and level while backing up on the andersons.

We then chock opposite sid like wulfraat, but we also then use x-chicks as well on both sides of the dual axel tires. I be
Dive these help with the "bounce" movement issues.
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Old 09-12-2017, 12:47 AM   #14
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Since we're often boondocking, we take 2 x 6 and 4 x 6 wood sections with the ends cut at a 45 degree slant. This makes it easy to deploy substantial amounts of leveling if needed. Note that if a 2 x 6 is too much, just placing it under one wheel on one side is perfect.

We use X chocks to help keep the trailer from moving, and place traditional chocks on the low side if we're fighting a fore-aft hill too.

When jacking the trailer off the hitch ball, we leave the safety chains connected in case the trailer decides to go for a ride.

Wood is strong and relatively cheap. You can paint it silver if you like, or stain it to match your favorite campground dirt .

- Bart
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