Let's talk Boundary Waters

[cooperhawk]

Fall lake is beautiful! Did you know there are mountains in Minnesooooota? Take Hwy 61 northeast out of Duluth to northeast of Silver Bay and then Hwy 1 to Ely. It is a great drive. Look out for moose.

In Duluth don't miss the railroad museum right down town. Really one of the best in the nation.

We go to Duluth every summer and stay at Indian Point Campground on the south edge of the city. Nice place and close enough in to drive into the city and see the sights. Lots of bike and hiking trails.

Love Fall Lake! There is a very nice island half a mile from the campground that is a great place to spend a day.

Like ribs. Take the south bridge to Superior and at the end of the bridge watch for the sign a couple blocks over for the "Shack". Good food!!

[Nuvite-F]

Caryl,

Since you indicated this is your first trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA), I thought that a general introduction to the “lay of the land” in the Minnesota Arrowhead might be helpful in your trip planning.

I guess my first observation is that there are not very many people in it! (One of its major attractions.) To name one benchmark, there’s not a single Wal-Mart northeast of Duluth.

You can think of the Arrowhead as really two separate vacation areas, the rocky north coast of Lake Superior and the wooded wilderness consisting of everything more than a few miles from the coast.

The twin ports of Superior, WI and Duluth, MN are the gateway to the Arrowhead. From Duluth there are two routes to Ely, the “end of the road” and jumping-off place to the BWCA. You can take MN 61 northeast up the coast to Two Harbors then County Road 2 north out of Two Harbors to Minnesota 1 to Ely. Or you can take US 53 north out of Duluth to Virginia, then Minnesota 169 northeast out of Virginia to Ely.

The coastal route is shorter (about 100 versus 115 miles) but the US 53 route is faster. By the time you reach Ely from Two Harbors you will know why they call it “wilderness”. I have driven that route—about 75 miles—without seeing another car. (Although not at the peak of the vacation season when you’ll be there.) And it takes two hours or more—MN 1 from County 2 to Ely is the twisty-turney-est “highway” I believe I’ve ever driven. You’ll do well to make 25 miles per hour towing the trailer.

There’s a lot of stuff to see along the coast, and several places to camp. If you have time you might want to spend a few days along the coast on the way to or from the BWCA.

Starting in Duluth and Superior, if you like ships, by all means tour the SS Meteor in Superior Wisconsin (right alongside US 53), the last of the Great Lakes whalebacks (a. k. a. pig boats) Tour the last whaleback ship in the world and the ore boat William A Irvin in Duluth DECC - Duluth Entertainment Convention Center . If you like museums there are several museums and historical buildings in Duluth and Superior within a few blocks of US 53.

Nowadays MN 61 is four lane to Two Harbors but you can still take the old two-lane scenic coast road for breathtaking views of the rocky coast. While in Two Harbors be sure to stop at the Depot Museum, right on the harbor, where you can see one of the last of the Duluth, Mesabi, and Iron Range articulated 2-8-8-4 Yellowstone steam locomotives. The DM&IR Class M-3 and M-4 Yellowstones were among the largest steam locomotives ever built. (Disclaimer for purists: the Northern Pacific Class Z-5 Yellowstones were a skosh bigger.) My other favorite museum in Two Harbors is the Dwan House Museum, more commonly known as the Sandpaper Museum, on the site of the Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing’s first and only mine. (After it turned out to be a failure 3M stuck to manufacturing.)


If you are going to “do” the coast, by all means follow 61 up to Castle Danger (love the name of that town!) and tour the Split Rock Light House. From there your best bet would be to go on up 61 to Silver Bay and take Minnesota 1 to Ely. (The southern end of 1, though two lane, is a lot faster highway than the northern end up near Ely.)

A word about shopping: From Fall Lake your nearest source of supplies is Ely. Winton is a small town at the head of Fall Lake, but the only retail stores are the municipal liquor store and the Fat Chicken Feed Store, which also serves as the post office. You can get just about anything you need in Ely, although groceries tend to be on the expensive side on account of shipping cost to “the end of the road”. We generally stock up on groceries in Two Harbors or Virginia on the way up. Gas prices, oddly enough, tend to be the same in Ely as in Duluth.

That’s all I can think of for now. Hope you will enjoy your trip to northern Minnesota. Who knows, maybe you’ll come back. My Swedish ancestors called it “God’s Country”. I still do.



See you up the road,
Nuvi

[Gene]

We'll be in The Arrowhead next week, Nuvi. Thanks for sharing all the information. I hope winter is over.

Gene

[Nuvite-F]

Gene,

Well, still some snow in the forecast but you should be OK. Ice is breaking up on the lakes. Forecast looks mostly cool and rainy--less than ideal, unfortunately.

Plan ahead--many of the attractions and some of the campgrounds don't open till mid-May.

A neat feature of this time of year is that the animals tend to be nearer human habitation than in summer, where they head into the deeper woods. Be especially vigilant when driving--the deer are still in their winter coats and they're hard to see.

Best,
Nuvi

[maxandgeorgia]

Reading about the Minnesota Arrowhead is not as good as being there, but almost Enjoy for all of us still stuck at home and summer dreaming! ~G

[Caryl]

Nuvite,

This is tremendous information. You mentioned Taking the old two-lane scenic coast road to Two Harbors. How would that work towing the Airstream?

I know my husband would love touring the ship and any and all old industrial sites as well. Once we went to Niagara Falls. He wasn't interested so much in the falls, but thought it would be great to get in to see the Love Canal site. I am sure we will be doing the mine tour.

I am getting out the map and using it to follow your posted ideas. Except for the mosquitoes, this trip is looking better all the time.

Caryl

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by Caryl

Nuvite,

This is tremendous information. You mentioned Taking the old two-lane scenic coast road to Two Harbors. How would that work towing the Airstream?

It's nicely paved and works great. The far north edge of Duluth is marked by the bridge over the Lester River. The turnoff to the old highway is about 1/2 a mile further on the right. Stay on it all the way to Two Harbors. Stop and get some smoked lake trout at Knife River. The Scenic Cafe between French River & Knife River is yummy if there aren't too many cars in the pull-through loop in front -- but it can be popular Fri-Sun at mealtime.

[maxandgeorgia]

Caryl, you might enjoy spending a few hours in Two Harbors, a charming Lake Superior town. As you enter town from the scenic drive, mosey your way down to the water where you'll see directions to the lighthouse/museum and the beginning of a good walking trail that circles the harbor. You'll have adequate parking for your tv and AS at the museum. Just as you leave Two Harbors, heading on up the North Shore, on your left across the highway, you'll see the little fish shop called Lou's. This is our favorite for smoked salmon and smoked jerky, so good we've been known to order it midyear for Christmas gifts. If we hit Lou's in early to mid am, we know we have the makings for the greatest beach lunch on up the road, so be sure to have crackers and wine/beer beverage of preference on board! Our lunch always ends up along the harbor of Grand Marais, a couple hours on up the North Shore. Ah...take me away! And, you're visiting the Gunflint too...lucky you. ~G

[CanoeStream]

The smoked fish place in Knife River is Kendall's.

Ignore the ever-popular Betty's Pies (aside from the fact you won't be able to park there). Save your calories for a piece of pie and local Finnish memorabilia at the nondescript Satellite Inn motel & restaurant near Schroeder.

If you make it to Grand Marais Municipal campground, hookup sites 156-162 are our favorites. From there you can walk into town. Angry Trout is the first restaurant you get to and if you try it once you'll go back! The Gunflint Tavern in town has good food -- their menu never varies but you won't know that. Avoid Sven & Ole's pizza IMO... The North Shore Pie Place above the hill just south of town is very good for breakfasts and the pie is good.

State parks along the north shore ... Tettegouche & Cascade have no hookups. Plus Tettegouche campground water is behind a building and you'll need a jerry can to fill your trailer. Temperance has hookups and is reservable but it might be too late for that. C.R. Magney SP north of Grand Marais has no hookups but a wonderful set of falls - 1 to 2 mile hike on well developed trails upstream. My favorite rivers are Temperance, Cascade & C.R. Magney. I don't mention the over-used Gooseberry Falls SP on purpose.

You could easily spend more time along the north shore than you will at Fall Lake. Worth another trip! Susie always challenges me to get her to say "I wanna go home" when we're up there. Hasn't worked so far.

[Nuvite-F]

Originally Posted by Caryl

I know my husband would love touring the ship and any and all old industrial sites as well. Once we went to Niagara Falls. He wasn't interested so much in the falls, but thought it would be great to get in to see the Love Canal site. I am sure we will be doing the mine tour.
Caryl

It has been years since we've gone over the old coast road between Duluth and Two Harbors but I don't recall any particular problems for an Airstream. CanoeStream has more current information and I second his recommendations. The only campground we've 'streamed at was the Grand Marais municipal marina and RV park, which is very nice. You can be right on the lake.

You sound like my wife and me. She knows I never pass up an engine room or a lighthouse. We toured the Meteor when it was first opened to the public, only a couple of years after it was sailing. The engine room (triple-expansion recip) still smelled of cylinder oil.

CanoeStream is right--you could easily spend a couple of weeks in Duluth/Superior and the north shore. Just gonna have to come back. . .

[maxandgeorgia]

and back and back and back until it becomes the very fabric of the stories of your family ~G

[Nuvite-F]

Originally Posted by maxandgeorgia

and back and back and back until it becomes the very fabric of the stories of your family ~G

A very nice insight. In my family, Minnesooota stories go back four generations. (Before that they come from the Old Country.)

Here's a sample: When my grandmother attended grade school in Duluth (in the first decade of the 20th century) she skied to school in the winter, and carried a Smith & Wesson .38. The wolves didn't usually bother people, but if they were really hungry they might go for a small kid. So the kids stuck together, and those old enough to shoot commonly carried guns. Nobody thought a thing about it. Grandma never had to shoot a wolf, but said she was a crack shot with that S&W. (My uncle still has the gun.)

[Davydd]

I just posted a 90 photo road food odyssey and oven-crafting course at the North House Folk School in Grand Marais, MN on the North Shore of Lake Superior. If you are interested in restaurants I guarantee this will be helpful. I also cover the Gunflint Trail up to the Trail's End Campground on Gull Lake. In my first message of this trip report I mention two previous trips with link references to them that also include, Ely, Fall Lake, Bear Head Lake State Park near Ely and most of the Lake Superior North Shore.

It is all at this link and way too much to repeat again here on Airforums. Building the Brick Bread Oven in Grand Marais and the Gunflint Trail - A Culinary Odyssey

If it remains fairly dry, late July will not be a misquito problem. This time of year is usually the worst and I experienced no bug problems whatsover last week.

[TomR]

Hello All...just read the earlier posts and it reminds me of why we enjoy living between Duluth and Two Harbors...on 80 acres about five miles "inland" from Lake Superior.

As "wanabees" we would truly enjoy any chance to buy a cup of coffee for any AS visitors to our area...maybe in return for a bit of AS "talk"

My e-mail is tmrootness@msn.com please feel free to e-mail your schedule in advance and let's see if we might find each other somewhere in the Duluth/Two Harbors area...we might even ride our Harleys to Ely or Grand Marais...since those are our favorite rides.

Again...would be glad to host a coffee break diring your Northland travels...Tom R in Two Harbors, MN

P.S. Canoe Stream is correct...skip Betty's Pies (unless you just HAVE to experience it) and try the Satellite (sp?) for better pie...also don't miss "world's greatest donut shop in Grand Marais...TMR

[Minno]

We do BWCAW every summer for our anniversary, and love it. The further in you go (read: portages), the more peaceful it gets. We would suggest Bear Head Lake State Park about 12 miles south of Ely as a great place to camp. It also has a dump station you can use and is a beautiful lake. We also camp there in the RV every summer. On the north shore, be sure to stop at Temperence River State Park and do some hiking up the river. Many beautiful waterfals and rapids areas, and the hiking is not very strenuous.
There's this little hole -in-the-wall place north of the Chocolate Moose on the street - I think it says shoe repair on the outside. This guy has the most fantastic stuff in his little shop: moose hide belts and stuff like that! Worth finding. It's on Main street coming in to town from the south on the left side of the street.... Enjoy!

[Gene]

Caryl,

We got back from that area several weeks ago and my impressions are detailed in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f42/...ips-47817.html

Sven & Ole's pizza is serviceable, certainly not the best we've ever had, but when you've got pizza-itis, what can you do? Canoestream may have higher standards than us. Donot shop in Grand Marais was still closed when we were there, so I don't know about it. It was too early for mosquitos, but not too late for snow.

If you have occasion to go to the Goodyear dealer near the Ely Chamber of Commerce, tell Bob he did a good job, the leaks stopped on our trailer.

Gene

[TomR]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

Sven & Ole's pizza is serviceable, certainly not the best we've ever had...Gene

Gene...you probably did not have the "pickle herring" pizza...that is Sven & Ole's "signature" pizza

Actually, it is more of a cultural statement than a premium pizza stop...in Minneapolis area you frequently see "Sven and Ole" bumper stickers...as well as "Betty's Pie Shop" bumper stickers. I am not sure what you do to achieve "cultural" status...or like the World's Greatest Donuts"...never have investigated the support for that claim!

Just gotta do it...Tom R in Two Harbors

[Gene]

Originally Posted by TomR

Gene...you probably did not have the "pickle herring" pizza...that is Sven & Ole's "signature" pizza

And, Tom, I am really, really, really glad I didn't!

Maybe I'm just a traditionalist. Never could understand putting pineapple on a pizza either.

Gene

[Lily&Me]

We can vouch for the donut shop in Grand Marais. Scrumptious, warm from the fryer morsels. Heading North late next month, TomR, will email some schedule once we have made one. We don't know much, do know some!

[crazylev]

Davydd.

Great blog/post thing. We went to the donut place and I ate 12 donuts while walking around town.

When I felt a little better about an hour later, we went to the Angry trout for chowder and sandwiches. Also got fish from Russ. Really tasty.

I ate a stick of dynamite for some roughage after this trip. I owe our black tank some kind of favor. The tank sensors will never function properly again!

Jonathan