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Old 09-27-2011, 12:39 AM   #15
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Thanks for the help guys. I'm did check the Suburban on a newly asphalted section of freeway recently and it seemed as though it pulled a little. Also, the pulling I noticed while pulling was on Interstate 5.

Do you guys think that there's anything to the fact that the Airstream tires are different distances apart?
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:03 AM   #16
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Might be the hitch

Congrats on the new rig--you'll have a lot of fun.
From your pictures it seems like you have an Equal-i-zer hitch.
It's hard to tell, but it looks like the brackets are not installed far enough away from the hitch head. They are supposed to be 32" from the center of the ball to the center of the bracket. The steering pull could be from too much pressure on the brackets, causing the bars to take a "set" after a turn. This can transfer to the steering making it pull. Try loosening the amount of weight transfer a little to see if it makes a difference.

Good luck!

Terry
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:24 PM   #17
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I called the dealer's service center today and they insisted that I bring it in so that they can fix the pulling issue. I'm impressed with Sutton RV's customer service.
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:48 PM   #18
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Update: There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the trailer. Sutton RV towed it about 30 miles today on various kinds of roads and couldn't find a problem.

I had the alignment on the Suburban checked and they discovered that it was off, and off in such a way that it would pull right. They've fixed the alignment. I'm picking the trailer up tomorrow and will report back as to whether or not the problem's still there.

Thanks for all of the help/suggestions!
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Old 10-12-2011, 06:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phbarnhart View Post
Update: There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the trailer. Sutton RV towed it about 30 miles today on various kinds of roads and couldn't find a problem.

I had the alignment on the Suburban checked and they discovered that it was off, and off in such a way that it would pull right. They've fixed the alignment. I'm picking the trailer up tomorrow and will report back as to whether or not the problem's still there.

Thanks for all of the help/suggestions!
Hope all is right with the Burb, did they suggest a tire rotation?

Insider tip when having an alignment done for pulling, mark the front tires/wheels for position. Some have been charged for alignment,(big box auto service), when all that was done was swap the front tires.

Bob
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:14 PM   #20
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NO WAY Bob, they would never do that
If they do rotate your tires, make sure they adjust tires pressure sensors. You can verify that using the DIC in your instrument panel. scrol through the menu and find tire pressure side to side and front to back. Don't forget to pump the backs more for towing.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:57 PM   #21
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@Bob: I'm not worried about this shop: I've used them for years. Also, they tried swapping the front tires over the weekend to see if that was the problem (no charge) and then they did the alignment yesterday. Also, my 19m/o and I watched them do it through a window so I'm pretty sure that they weren't just pulling my leg. Thanks for the advice though; that's precisely one of the reasons that I try to avoid the big chain places when possible. Sure, I may save 10 bucks but I think I'm getting at least that amount in peace-of-mind-value by going to a local place.

@subfan1: I'll look into the TPMS thing. They did swap the front tires for diagnostic purposes over the weekend (to see if it was still pulling the same direction) and I don't think that they did anything with the TMPS system. Then again, I have no error lights so...
I do pump up the rears more when towing. I'm running Nokian Vatiivas, which are XL rated, so I pump them up to 45-50psi when towing.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:07 AM   #22
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I do pump up the rears more when towing. I'm running Nokian Vatiivas, which are XL rated, so I pump them up to 45-50psi when towing.

Can't remember . . did you get scale numbers? Tire pressures have a direct relation to load to be correct (within a small range). As with setting WDH with scale-derived values, one works from a baseline from then on. Slight changes here and there are important to reference to known values. There will be a setting that you find ideal, and more pressure may not be it (reference manufacturer guidelines).

Trip-to-trip changes (TT and/or TV weight/balance) when recorded via weight scale tickets show a trend that will usually cover most possible or potential WD changes.

Starting with "true" empty weights of both vehicles (and once WDH and tire pressure initially dialled in) progressing to heavier or stranger loadings (full holding tanks is a "weirdo", strange; not-to-be-done, but interesting to know) seen across a handful of scale tickets the changes to adjust the hitch rigging and/or tire pressures is fairly complete.

Make some notes. Some rigs may need no WD/tire adjustments at all, some a fair amount.

Knowing what those WD changes are -- because they've been worked out and verified -- according to your logbook means peace of mind. Adjust this, then that. Complete pre-trip inspection. Turn key, go.

The trend, the possible continuum, is key.

.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:47 AM   #23
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@ Rednax: I haven't gotten to the scales yet. Unfortunately the nearest one is, well, not near. I've now winterized and am hoping to have time to get the the scales in the spring. Unfortunately, with two small kids, my time is not my own.
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