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Old 12-21-2007, 11:10 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
Truckee , California
Posts: 58

How to place BICYCLE RACK ?

Have a new 2007 25" Safari SE Front Bedroom and would like to carry 2 bicycles on the rig.
My best idea is to place the bikes in some type of support on the rear flat bumper/ storage compartment. Was wondering if anyone has bikes mounted in this location and if so how ?
Thanks Fred
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:24 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishfred
Have a new 2007 25" Safari SE Front Bedroom and would like to carry 2 bicycles on the rig.
My best idea is to place the bikes in some type of support on the rear flat bumper/ storage compartment. Was wondering if anyone has bikes mounted in this location and if so how ?
Thanks Fred
NEVER NEVER

Installing "anything" on the rear end does two things.

1. Depending on how much weight, it will reduce the tongue weight.

2. It will guarantee you that rear end separation "WILL" take place, which can cost thousands to repair.

Bikes belong in the trailer or in the tow vehicle, only

Andy
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:37 AM   #3
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Profile:  2007 23' Safari SE
Viera , Florida
Posts: 838

Fred,

You can see my bicycle solution here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/457796-post3.html

This is a Pace-Edwards bed cover with http://www.yakima.com/Default.aspxa landing pads, towers, rails, and bike racks. Worked very well for out last 4K mile trip.

Randy
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:51 AM   #4
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Viera , Florida
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Andy,

I agree with your recommendation, but I have a "body-man" (auto and truck body shop) in my Unit that insists that welding a rack to the frame will not cause separation. In fact he has a rack for a small motorcycle welded to the rear of his 27' Safari. It frightens me just to look at it.

He jumped up and down on it and asked me to see if I could see any frame flex, which I couldn't, but then maybe it's too slight for me to detect, and will have some effect over time. He pointed out a 34' in our Unit that has a buckle in front of the triple axel that he says was caused by stress over time on the long frame, but for shorter trailers 27' or less, that won't be a problem. His reasoning is that Airstream's frame builder use the same gauge steel in all trailer frames, so shorter units are stiffer.

Frankly, I like your reason #1 above as justification for not putting anything on the rear. After tuning-up my Equal-i-zer before my last trip, I realize how important proper tongue weight is to anti-sway and handling performance.

Just wondering if you would care to comment from your experience on what my body-man said?

Thanks as always,

Randy
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Old 12-21-2007, 11:56 AM   #5
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Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
Truckee , California
Posts: 58

Comeon Andy lets be realistic.
Integral in the bumper is a storage compartment approx 8" X 8" X 6' long that i could load with over 100 pounds of Axes, Mauls, etc. Bicycles are extremely light, certainly lighter than all the "HEAVY" stuff i could through in the storage compartment. Realistically its a perfect place to place bicycles !
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:13 PM   #6
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hi 'fred

as is the case for every common topic/issue related to 'streamin...

there are easily 50 threads here on this topic...

most of them start with the same basic question...

there are 100s of replies on this issue, photos, how-to'z and warnings...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...-go-38296.html

i think it's a crummy place for bikes...

too much dirt, too easily stolen, reduced access to the truck storage (on rear queen bed units) and another 2 feet of stuff to damage when backing up.

but it's your trailer so have at it!

or learn to use the advanced search tool, and read what's been posted already.

no doubt someone has already tried a location and rack style you'll like.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-21-2007, 12:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishfred
Comeon Andy lets be realistic.
Integral in the bumper is a storage compartment approx 8" X 8" X 6' long that i could load with over 100 pounds of Axes, Mauls, etc. Bicycles are extremely light, certainly lighter than all the "HEAVY" stuff i could through in the storage compartment. Realistically its a perfect place to place bicycles !
Nope.

Don't ask me, ask those that have been there and done that.

We love to have trailers come into our shop to have the rear end separation repaired, especially when they were told by their peers to not put bikes on the rear, or generators or motorcycles, or even light weight scooters. The repairs get "real" expensive quick, and it is "NOT" covered by insurance, since that damage would be considered "long term."

Laws of Physics apply.

Moment arm is the problem.

Lets see how many others chime in and agree to the "nothing on the rear" statement.

Plus, the Airstream factory also says the same.

But since each individual owns their trailer, they are free to make any choice they wish.

It's always better to not say "I told you so," than to say it.

Good luck with your choices.

Andy
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Old 12-21-2007, 01:24 PM   #8
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Profile:  1978 24' Argosy 24
Woodinville , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Laws of Physics apply.
Moment arm is the problem.
Moment arm or not if one or two bicycles cause frame separation then it's a design flaw. I'm not saying it won't happen. In fact I'm quite sure there are a lot of trailers that have suffered this even without having a bike rack. Not being able to drive anywhere with the black water tank full, now that's a pain

2Airs points are equally good reasons to avoid the rear mount. I'll add to that absent mindedness (maybe it's just me ) but it's way to easy to hang a bike or stick something else on the rack and forget to strap it down. "I'll be right back..." Famous last words
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Old 12-21-2007, 02:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhayden
Not being able to drive anywhere with the black water tank full, now that's a pain
Full holding tanks, both gray and black, are not the cause of rear end separation.

The primary cause is lack of proper running gear balance.

That's why Airstream now places the batteries in front of the trailer, so that they don't get beat to death at the rear end of the trailer, like they use to.

The second cause is excessive tow vehicle stiffness and/or excessive hitch ratings.

The third cause is bad axles.

A fourth reason, is adding weight to the rear end, even bicycles.

A soft ride for the trailer is a "must."

If for any reason, the ride becomes harsh, then in time, an owner will experience many types of damage to the trailer, along with possible rear end separation.

This is not an opinion, but facts learned from running an Airstream Service department for over 40 years.

Andy
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Old 12-21-2007, 03:13 PM   #10
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
Truckee , California
Posts: 58

Thanks guys,
Geeze i couldn't find my post topic until i googled it. Still don't know where it is ?
I liked 2airs points. So i won't mount it back there.
Actually had a mount on my old Ford truck - in front of radiator that i used to use when my camper was on my truck. Guess i could do the same thing or put them inside the camper. Can't do anything on top as my boat is generally there.
Fred
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Old 12-21-2007, 03:06 PM   #11
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Profile:  2005 25' Safari
Lakewood , California
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Andy, as I've mentioned before, I really like reading your responses. You have struck my curiosity though. Can you explain what "excessive tow vehicle stiffness and/or excessive hitch rating" is?

Thanks.

Safari-Rick
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Old 12-21-2007, 04:56 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari-Rick
Andy, as I've mentioned before, I really like reading your responses. You have struck my curiosity though. Can you explain what "excessive tow vehicle stiffness and/or excessive hitch rating" is?

Thanks.

Safari-Rick
We don't need a Peter-Bilt to tow and Airstream.

We also don't need 1 ton trucks, dually's and the like.

To me anything over a 1/2 ton spring rate, is excessive tow vehicle stiffness.

The simply test, for any rig is hook it up to your trailer, with the load equalizing bars that you have.

Then get up on the A-frame, and try to bounce up and down.

There should be 2 to 3 inches of bounce.

If not, your over rigged. That over rigging can be the tow vehicle, the load equalizing hitch bars, or both.

I have seen some rigs that wouldn't bounce if you had a 400 pound person jump up and down.

Anything over a soft ride for an Airstream or Argosy trailer, will eventually "GOTCHA" and you will needlessly spend good money for repairs, that could have been 100 percent avoided.

RV service departments love customers who have excessive rigging. Keeps their service department very busy, correcting everything that was torn up.
It's also good for the dealers bank account.

How to avoid the problem, is easy.

Want to improve how a Suburban handles and how it reacts with your trailer??? Soften the springs. You will be amazed.

"Don't over rig." It's a waste of money and gives you and your Airstream, nothing but grief.

Guaranteed.

Andy
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:23 PM   #13
2 Rivet Member
Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
Truckee , California
Posts: 58

Hi Andy,
As I haven't picked up my new Airstream yet (will in about 2 weeks) i would greatly appreciate you commenting on what type of hitch (weight distribution/sway) setup I should deploy on my rig.
So I have a F350 Diesel 4x4Crew cab 8' bed ,single axle with about a 1700 lb pop-up camper on it and I will tow my 2007 25' Safari airstream that weighs around 7800 lb and has a hitch weight of 720lbs. So i am maxing out my truck GVWR ( around 9,700lb) . I will quite often be travelling on gravel roads (throughout BC) so thats also a consideration. Would greatly appreciate your comments as i really don't want to leave my decision totally up to the service department when i go to pick up my trailer.
Fred
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishfred
Hi Andy,
As I haven't picked up my new Airstream yet (will in about 2 weeks) i would greatly appreciate you commenting on what type of hitch (weight distribution/sway) setup I should deploy on my rig.
So I have a F350 Diesel 4x4Crew cab 8' bed ,single axle with about a 1700 lb pop-up camper on it and I will tow my 2007 25' Safari airstream that weighs around 7800 lb and has a hitch weight of 720lbs. So i am maxing out my truck GVWR ( around 9,700lb) . I will quite often be travelling on gravel roads (throughout BC) so thats also a consideration. Would greatly appreciate your comments as i really don't want to leave my decision totally up to the service department when i go to pick up my trailer.
Fred
I would suggest a Reese full sway control (dual cam) 550 pound rated hitch.

Using a heavier rated hitch, with your super heavy duty tow vehicle, will send excessive road shock to the trailer, that will more than likely cause front end damage, sooner than you think.

Also, installing "segment protectors' will for most part contain the damage from the rocks.

Andy
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