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Old 07-11-2019, 03:57 PM   #1
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2014 22' FB Sport
Atlanta , Georgia
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How do you keep your battery fresh when the trailer's in storage?

We opted to store our trailer in storage to get some protection from weather. Typically, we tow it from storage to home the week before we depart, and charge the battery at home. But sometimes we get to storage--either because we're going to leave from there or because we're going to pick the trailer up to bring it home and get ready--the battery's dead and the power jack doesn't work. The storage place doesn't have power outlets available, so a trickle charger can't be used.

How do I avoid the dead battery? Surely other people must have this issue. Do you leave the battery at home where you can charge it and then install it in the trailer before you head out? Is there some other arrangement I should think about?

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Old 07-11-2019, 04:05 PM   #2
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2019 30' International
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I'd remove the battery, take it home, and put it on a battery tender in the garage. That way it'll be ready to go, and when you go to leave on your next trip you'll just have to take it with you and install it before you go.

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Old 07-11-2019, 04:15 PM   #3
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2018 25' International
Columbia , Missouri
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My solar does a good job on ambient light even when under cover. I was surprised because I didnít think it would.
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Old 07-11-2019, 06:01 PM   #4
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Portland , Oregon
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Physically disconnect your battery terminals and your batteries should last months without over discharging. Alternatively you can install a battery disconnect switch.

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Old 07-11-2019, 06:05 PM   #5
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2017 22' Sport
NCR , Ontario
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we remove the LION battery, take it home, and put it on a battery tender in the basement for winter

i then put the old lead acid inside. it runs off the mains , thus i can work on and keep status of the US during the cold snowy months

we use mostly victron parts. they all talk to each other thus i can monitor them from the iNet
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:21 PM   #6
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2016 26' Flying Cloud
Southlake , Texas
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Pulse Tech makes a solar charger that will maintain your battery (ies) and its pulsing charge will prevent sulfating of the battery(ies). Don’t know if it will work on lithium ion batteries.
2016 Flying Cloud 26u
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:35 PM   #7
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2015 23' FB Flying Cloud
Walnut Creek , California
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Our coach has a battery disconnect switch that completely removes loads from the battery bank. Batteries went into storage at 12.7 and came out at 12.5 seven months later. You can do similar if you disconnect the battery cables which has same effect as a disconnect switch. The use/store switch does not remove parasitic loads.

If your batteries are in poor condition, they will not hold a charge. You can limp them along by removing them and charging at home. At some point, replacement is required.

Hope that helps. Pat
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:21 PM   #8
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2018 30' Classic
Jacksonville , Florida
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When I had a trailer in the storage lot I'd load the generator in the truck and put a quick charge on before moving the trailer.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:13 AM   #9
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Fenton , Missouri
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The master disconnect switch when turned to the off position on my model year removes all parasitic power draws except for the propane detector. I find that I can hold power in the batteries for up to 3 months when turning the switch in the off position. With the switch in the on position I can only hold power for about 30 days.

When I complete my last campout of the year, I remove the batteries and place them on a trickle charge.

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Old 07-12-2019, 09:19 AM   #10
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Caledonia , Michigan
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Add a physical disconnect switch. The Store button still allows too much parasitic loss.

I recently changed to this one:
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:29 AM   #11
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Atlanta , Georgia
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Get a $10 kill switch.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:30 AM   #12
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2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Ok, assuming your trailer is still set up with the stock gear, it's got lead acid batteries in it. It may have one or two batteries. Keeping track of what AS decided to do each year is a bit

If what you have has been run dead on a regular basis, they likely are shot and should be replaced. Lead acid does not like to be run to zero and left there. What you replace them with its up to you. Cost wise, deep cycle batteries from Costco seem to get a lot of attention here on the forum.

Once you get the batteries back to reasonable shape, check that the converter / charger is still ok. They don't much like running into dead batteries. You may or may not have a working one at this point.

There are a number of "parasitic loads" on your trailer that will drain even a good battery dead in under a month. You either need to supply power to the trailer or fully disconnect the battery(s). If you are in covered storage with no power, disconnect is the only answer. If you store outside, solar will do the trick.

For most of us, pulling batteries is a bit of a pain. Putting in a switch or solenoid of some sort usually is the route of choice. Switches can range from things with a big knob on them to a gizmo that mounts on a battery post. Solenoids are a bit more money, but they let you do the trick with a remote pushbutton.

One of an almost infinite number of "big knob" switches:

A very good (and not exactly cheap) solenoid:

The battery post gizmo:

There are lots of choices in each category so this is by no means a list of everything or anything you could use.

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Old 07-12-2019, 09:38 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Belbein View Post
How do I avoid the dead battery?
1. Remove the batteries and take them home.
2. Install a battery disconnect. (not the "use/store" switch.)

A real disconnect removes all the things that drain your battery except it's own internal resistance.
Here's my blog on how I did my switch. It may be overkill, but it's worked great.

Yesterday I made sure the batteries had water. I use only distilled water and each cell needed about 1/2 cup. The plates were covered but I brought them up to the marks.
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:50 AM   #14
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2019 22' Sport
Malibu , California
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Better to disconnect or leave on solar charge while parked at home? Two 6 volt golf cart.

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