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BoldAdventure · 10-19-2015, 08:07 PM

Campgrounds sound complicated.

'55 Airlight · 10-19-2015, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FollySteve

Love it !! Ask them, "What, you didn't get full hook ups?!"

"There're a bunch of utility full hook up poles around; just gotta look for 'em..."

IanPoulin · 10-20-2015, 01:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

We use a short stringer hose to a "Y". Then we use curly spring hoses from the "Y" to the trailers connections (city water and Sewer Solution). All of our hoses are rated for drinking water. All of our water hose connections are via quick-connects.

Brian

I guess my question is that if your sewer solution backflow preventer fails, and you discover it only later, how do you tell which hose went into that system? This is the unlikely and "unforeseen" circumstance I envisioned when I went with green hoses for flush and sewer solution and kept the white only for fresh water and mister.

The Ice Man · 10-20-2015, 09:29 AM

WestieHouse - I use two as AStreamNerds suggests. With the Anderson's it's simple and there's no stress on the frame which leads to "door slam" problems.

WestieHouse · 10-20-2015, 11:29 AM

Thanks, Ice Man. Makes good sense to use two Andersons.

IanPoulin · 10-20-2015, 01:17 PM

I know I am tangential slightly, but the jury is out on my Anderson levelers so far. I've had a few situations already where on soft ground, the "set" block re-adjusts during the week allowing a 1-2" drop and loss of adjustment. still playing with it though.

**moosetags** · 10-20-2015, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IanPoulin

I guess my question is that if your sewer solution backflow preventer fails, and you discover it only later, how do you tell which hose went into that system? This is the unlikely and "unforeseen" circumstance I envisioned when I went with green hoses for flush and sewer solution and kept the white only for fresh water and mister.

I've got about 1,700 nights on the Sewer Solution. The back flow preventer has never failed. I'm just not going to worry about that.

Brian

rodsterinfl · 10-24-2015, 03:15 PM

Some fantastic ideas. I am getting the hose. My Never Kink always kinks and is a mess.

Quote:

Re: WiFi/HDTV AIR:
Those that still have the crank Winegard have some options to add WiFi and even a new frequency HDTV antenna to the batwing mount. Crank it up and you have your antenna array ready to go. Turning it is nearly a mute point with the new antenna so I rarely have to mess with it once lifted. Saves time.

Please tell me more, link, etc., on how to update the crank winegard with WiFI and the new HDTV antenna.

Yes, the antenna update "kit" I got from Winegard. It basically uses the crank up system already in place for the batwing but you remove one rod. The kit for those that have a batwing is:

Winegard Rayzar Air - RV HDTV Antenna, RV Antenna

they also have the fully automatic disc model but I do not know how well it performs.

IanPoulin · 10-24-2015, 04:16 PM

The disc model doesn't work as well as the crank and rotate aerial

2011 Airstream International Serenity 28' - 30a/taupe
2013 Ford F150 v6-ecoboost with max tow and HD payload packages

rodsterinfl · 10-25-2015, 06:11 AM

Quote:

The disc model doesn't work as well as the crank and rotate aerial

good to know. I CAN testify that the new "paddle" razor works better than the batwing with HD nose as I upgraded and it got more channels. It is bi-directional so there is that much less turning. I have the power signal indicator sensor pro which was very useful with the batwing now, not so much.

Winegard SensarPro TV Signal Strength Meter