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Old 10-19-2015, 04:40 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by '55 Airlight View Post

Also, when dealing with difficult to locate utility pole services while boon docking, I have found it handy to carry one of these. Especially at music festivals or rallies on big grassy fields, this'll make your neighbors go absolutely apoplectic. (Wish I could say I built it m'self, but that'd be far from true.). Michael
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Or out in the middle of nowhere... That's hillarious, Michael! 👍
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:05 PM   #16
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Over the years, we have found several little tricks that help with making and breaking camp.

When it come to water hook-ups, we have found that garden hose brass quick-connects really speed up the process. If you decide to use these, get the solid brass ones that they sell at Tractor Supply Company (best price). Don't get the aluminum ones. They are junk.

We use a short stringer hose to a "Y". Then we use curly spring hoses from the "Y" to the trailers connections (city water and Sewer Solution). All of our hoses are rated for drinking water. All of our water hose connections are via quick-connects.

We also use the "push on" coax cable connectors.

Brian
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:13 PM   #17
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Nice photo, saved it to my someday trailer file.
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
Greetings

I did not see a specific thread on such a topic but I thought it pertinent as I want to know and others may also have an interest. So many have learned short cuts and products that may help. Usually as a solo camper, I am interested in not taking an hour setting camp. One of the caveats to RV trailer ownership besides backing that I have heard is the extra work of de-hitching and extra connections.I do not find the de-hitching that difficult but let's discuss connections and/or de-hitching time savers. My contributions and questions below.
Looking at it more broadly, I don't find that the connection of hookups contributes much to the time required to set or break camp. Takes more time to get out and put away hoses, cables, etc., set stabilizers and pads, fuss with hitch, awning, windows, camp chairs, grill.

We typically don't use any hookups except electricity if we're only staying one night.

Quote:
LP generator line:
One solution, I recently got a quick connect for my LP generator line which saves me about 5 minutes in a boon docking situation. Ironically all but one evening when I hooked up the generator this summer it was pouring rain. I could have been so much faster with a quick connect line. Now, is there a type of connector that better holds the weight of the trailer AC cord to the side of a generator if using a standard 2 prong/30AMP adapter?
You could retrofit both the generator and the cord with a twist-lock connector with a suitable rating. If you do that and have a dedicated generator cord you may be able to use smaller and lighter cable that is sized to match the output of the generator.

Quote:
Water line:
This one is IMO the messiest. Often the spigot threadings are thin and for some reason difficult to get the hose connected. Any fast options here?
It's the last thing we hook up. We just use the water from the tank until a more opportune time, if we're in a hurry.

Quote:
Leveling:
I got a two-way level for the trailer tongue and the legos for use under the jack and on a side if needed but it takes more time than I would like as it is a small level and also requires guessing how many legos and more moving before done. Ideas? Any place to mount a large balance viewable from the truck? Is it worth it?
I have a large level mounted near the top of the propane compartment. I have 40# tanks so it's up fairly high. If I raise the liftgate on my Suburban, I can see it from the driver's seat.

Quote:
Stabilizers:
I use a cordless drill for these and the PP3 hitch weight jacks and add legos to shorten distance.
I used a cordless drill for a while and went back to the crank. The drill doesn't save as much time as you might think, and it's one more thing that has to be carried along, charged, and accounted for. I don't worry about people stealing the crank so I just set it behind the propane box when I'm at the campsite.

You might be interested in the "elephant feet" product. They are oversized feet for the standard stabilizer jacks, that are supposed to eliminate the need for placing a block of wood under the jack to distribute the weight. They stay on the jack in place of the factory foot, so it's one less thing to have to handle.
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:33 PM   #19
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I second Jammer's comment about the electric connection. My wife built a second power cord for our trailer, with standard household-type plug on one end and a 30 amp trailer fitting on the other. The pieces came from Lowe's. They had normal and waterproof versions of the fittings. The cord itself is smaller and lighter than the normal cord because it doesn't have to handle as much current.

The other thing would be a "dogbone" type adapter to go from the generator to the regular trailer power cord. This type of adapter is less likely to pull out of the socket. For example: Amazon.com: Camco 55165 15M/30F 12" PowerGrip Dogbone Electrical Adapter with Handle: Automotive
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Old 10-19-2015, 08:48 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by '55 Airlight View Post
(Just making sure you're not actually suggesting "the normal garden hose type" for a potable drinking water hose.)

Also, when dealing with difficult to locate utility pole services while boon docking, I have found it handy to carry one of these. Especially at music festivals or rallies on big grassy fields, this'll make your neighbors go absolutely apoplectic. (Wish I could say I built it m'self, but that'd be far from true.)

Michael
This is awesome!
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:07 PM   #21
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Campgrounds sound complicated.
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:32 PM   #22
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Love it !! Ask them, "What, you didn't get full hook ups?!"
"There're a bunch of utility full hook up poles around; just gotta look for 'em..."
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post

We use a short stringer hose to a "Y". Then we use curly spring hoses from the "Y" to the trailers connections (city water and Sewer Solution). All of our hoses are rated for drinking water. All of our water hose connections are via quick-connects.

Brian
I guess my question is that if your sewer solution backflow preventer fails, and you discover it only later, how do you tell which hose went into that system? This is the unlikely and "unforeseen" circumstance I envisioned when I went with green hoses for flush and sewer solution and kept the white only for fresh water and mister.
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:29 AM   #24
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WestieHouse - I use two as AStreamNerds suggests. With the Anderson's it's simple and there's no stress on the frame which leads to "door slam" problems.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:29 PM   #25
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Thanks, Ice Man. Makes good sense to use two Andersons.
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Old 10-20-2015, 02:17 PM   #26
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I know I am tangential slightly, but the jury is out on my Anderson levelers so far. I've had a few situations already where on soft ground, the "set" block re-adjusts during the week allowing a 1-2" drop and loss of adjustment. still playing with it though.
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Old 10-20-2015, 08:34 PM   #27
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I guess my question is that if your sewer solution backflow preventer fails, and you discover it only later, how do you tell which hose went into that system? This is the unlikely and "unforeseen" circumstance I envisioned when I went with green hoses for flush and sewer solution and kept the white only for fresh water and mister.
I've got about 1,700 nights on the Sewer Solution. The back flow preventer has never failed. I'm just not going to worry about that.

Brian
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:15 PM   #28
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Some fantastic ideas. I am getting the hose. My Never Kink always kinks and is a mess.

Quote:
Re: WiFi/HDTV AIR:
Those that still have the crank Winegard have some options to add WiFi and even a new frequency HDTV antenna to the batwing mount. Crank it up and you have your antenna array ready to go. Turning it is nearly a mute point with the new antenna so I rarely have to mess with it once lifted. Saves time.

Please tell me more, link, etc., on how to update the crank winegard with WiFI and the new HDTV antenna.
Yes, the antenna update "kit" I got from Winegard. It basically uses the crank up system already in place for the batwing but you remove one rod. The kit for those that have a batwing is:

Winegard Rayzar Air - RV HDTV Antenna, RV Antenna

they also have the fully automatic disc model but I do not know how well it performs.
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