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Old 11-09-2015, 03:37 PM   #15
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Homosassa , Florida
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We have drug our 30' once when exiting a gas station. Entrance was fine but opposite side exit looked ok but just steep enough to scrape. We fuel at Flying J RV pumps whenever possible just to avoid problems.
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Old 11-09-2015, 03:52 PM   #16
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If you have a steep driveway or some other obstacle you'll have to deal with on a fairly regular basis you CAN bring the back end of the trailer up high deliberately. Dump 10 lbs of pressure from your rear tires of your tow vehicle (have a pump to refill them promptly to prevent damage). If you have a weight distribution hitch removing the weight bars should let the front sag down a couple of inches - it may be all you need to cross over the transition.

Carry a couple of 5 to 6 ft long planks (2 x 10's are best) to bridge OVER a big dip in a driveway entrance/exit.

Recently I had to do a back in parking job with a deep pothole I couldn't help but run over. Orange "lego" blocks to the rescue, but I think I left one in the bottom of the hole never to be seen again. The campground has since filled it in after a fellow camper pulled an old car antenna and stuck it in the pothole than claimed that a sinkhole had gotten his Jetta. (Almost had the camp host going for a minute or two!)

Paula
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Old 11-09-2015, 04:00 PM   #17
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Vancouver , Washington
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It does happen. I am always careful when entering or leaving a driveway with any sort of transition curb. Most are ok but look for the telltale signs of other trailers that have already bottomed out and left gouges in the pavement. Worst outcome would be ripping out your holding tank drain valves. Would not be fun to have an unplanned dump of your holding tanks right there in the street for all to enjoy. If it looks like a troublesome transition, go slow and watch closely. Position a spotter outside to watch and report if you can. Avoid if it really looks like trouble, and look for a better spot.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:30 PM   #18
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Don't want to add casters because that will limit your clearance and push up on the stern. Too much can "bend" the shell of your Airstream.. Pop rivets.. Or crease!!
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:36 PM   #19
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Oh, here are the boards laminated to span 6 feet of our 9500# BABY!!!
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:47 PM   #20
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The newer trailers I've gotten under have vertical 1/4" steel plates/strips welded to the aft frame that will contact the pavement first, so main part of the frame and the bumper won't drag.

I don't understand why this factory set-up would be better than casters, but what do I know? (Answer: nothing.)
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:42 PM   #21
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Trust me, even with the drag bars it's still possible to wrinkle the shell if you miss a narrow driveway edge and drop the rear corner hard. Don't ask me how I found this out.

Bent two segments in one corner (sigh). At least it's not leaking.


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Old 11-14-2015, 03:08 PM   #22
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sequim , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Here in the PNW we worry about ferries.

watch the tides, enter at an angle, no problem doing that, and you will be fine.
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:23 AM   #23
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Thank you all for your comments. All valuable to a newbie!
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:41 AM   #24
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Bridges

Here is how we negotiate our driveway...
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Old 12-30-2015, 08:02 AM   #25
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Oh.. Our little baby snaps 2x12's like small branches. Your "span" should be less than less than 4" before ther is another support at least the width of the top board.

Our "bridge consists of multiple 2x4's which are thru drilled, glued together with the strongest construction adhesive I could buy, then then clamped With "all thread" and fender washers and cured 3 days before use

They are 3 years old and need replacement now.

They also weigh over 80# each... And are 8' long. So a challenge with my injured back,,, just move one end at a time using my arms..

I considered steel, but the weight would be more... Also, wood will usually make noise before it reaches its break point... Sometimes. Steel just bends and is permanently deformed. I am considering a set of casters near the center to help position...

One other thing.. Boards can "kick up" on the light ent and hit your underside... Take care.
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Old 12-30-2015, 04:59 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocinante View Post
Here in the PNW we worry about ferries. We haven't taken Rocinante (27FB) on one yet because we fear the potential to drag her butt when entering or leaving the ferry, on the assumption that the potentially sharp angle between deck and ramp might be problematic, and by the time we realize there's a problem it would be too late to back out.

To be fair, we've no actual experience with this to date - just a concern that makes us avoid them though we'd love to go for it one day. So, this is officially a mostly fact-free opinion that led us to make an uniformed decision.
watch the tides, simple enough to avoid the sharp entry/exit angles. no issues for us on the WA ferries, at least to this point.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:27 AM   #27
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Irrigon , Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Once in a BluMoon we will scrape our rear end....



Do NOT add casters....the frame has provisions for the occasional butt drag.





Bob


Bob what are you showing me here?
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:48 AM   #28
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This is my first post and I don't own an airstream yet with any luck I'll find the perfect air stream this fall. This has been one of my main concerns hitting bottom or worse the hitch assembly hitting bottom when backing into a tight spot. I have been researching and looking at different setups mostly online and a few at RV parks and I like the Pro Pride and Hensley setups. I'm just really concerned that they hang too low and will contact the ground when pulling into or backing into on level areas. Anybody have any experience with this or am I just over thinking the situation too much.
I've been reading this form for the last year and a half learning as much as I can thank you again for being a great resource.
Rich
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