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Old 07-20-2016, 09:26 AM   #29
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2012 25' FB Flying Cloud
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(2) You seem disagreed with me about usage of brakes. I advised to use brakes while in second gear to slow down intermittently when the vehicle speeds up (meaning to NOT use the brakes constantly so that they become overheated). You seemed to say to maintain a constant speed using the brakes to main that speed. (I take that as use the brakes constantly if necessary since you said to not do it the other way) I think using the brakes continuously on a long downhill will contribute to overheating and possibly brake failure. Maybe we agree but expressed ourselves differently. Your thoughts please.

(3) You said to use the trailer brakes manually instead of using both truck and trailer brakes. It seems to me that using only one vehicle's brakes to slow two vehicles would over stress them. Why would you not use both truck and trailer brakes?

(4) I'm wondering about your statement about brake controller setting at 7.0. Do you leave at 7.0 all the time, or turn it to a higher setting on the downhill? I keep mine the same once they are adjusted properly.


AW Warn, I think we are on the same page, so just a little clarification. On steeper hills I will still end up increasing speed and will need to use the brakes to back down. I agree that holding the speed exactly with the brakes even when in lower gear is not the way to go. Intermittent is best.

As far as when using the trailer brakes manually, I use both my truck and the brake controller at the same time. I'm just boosting the trailer a bit. Agree with leaving the brake controller setting the same, mine is at 7.0 all the time. I just think it needs a manual boost from time to time on grades 6% or more.
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Old 07-20-2016, 05:35 PM   #30
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Pearland , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo View Post
NO, NO, NO...you never want to use 4WD low on pavement unless you want to replace your drive train. 4WD low is only to be used on dirt, sand, snow or rock crawling on loose material.
AirForums Group
I recently made a statement about towing the high mountain passes of Colorado. MOJO advised against my advice.

I questioned my advice after making the statement and did some research. I also contacted my mechanic who is the head mechanic at a Chev dealership where I live.

My conclusion is, my advice was wrong.
It is best to be in 2WD in the "tow-haul" mode( if you have it) and manually down shift to control your speed. Start out slow at the top and control your speed in 2WD.
Thank you MOJO for bringing this to light.
My apologies for giving incorrect information.
Be safe.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:00 PM   #31
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2014 27' FB Classic
Vicksburg , Mississippi
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Ayup - there's a couple of good hills between Minerva and Pottersville! Downshift, take 'er slow (I like 40-45 on most grades, 30 when it gets steep). Unlike some of the western grades the above posters are talking about, Rts 28N and 28 are two laners, so bide your time, and hold your lane. Better that some flatland tourist gets their knickers in a knot than you dropping your right wheels off a steep shoulder on a hard downgrade. Pump and release brakes (use both TV and TT together, not separately), and DO NOT use 4x4 on a dry, paved road or you will be minus an axle and transfer case. You didn't notice any turned turtle Airstreams along the side of the road on your way up, did you? Don't leave any on the way down. You'll be fine. Treat yourself to a good lunch with pie and coffee at the Black Bear Cafe in Pottersville!
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:05 PM   #32
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Started my day with a 6% 13-mile descent in western Maryland.

Never want to lose brakes. Trans will be fine if used as manufacturer directs.

Slower than you first think is best.
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