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Old 10-27-2012, 10:53 AM   #15
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you can also put a couple bags of ice inside the fridge to cut that cool down time way down. Just be sure to seal them up in garbage bags or something so they don't leak.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:31 PM   #16
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Rvers seem to be divided between the Fridge On and Fridge Off While Driving camps. Each group seems devoted to their system.

We are Fridge Off folks. We keep 3-4 pre-frozen blue gel pacs in the Dometic freezer while we are stationary at our campsite. When we leave , the fridge is off and a couple of the freezer pacs come out of the freezer and go into the fridge area, picnic cooler-style. We've traveled long distances with this self-perpetuating system without any problems of food spoilage. The fridge seems really well insulated.

Our biggest concern was that while boondocking, the fridge fan was on a lot, running off the battery. We had an on-off switch installed for the fan.

We turn off the water heater a lot of the time: just turn it on sufficiently in advance before it is wanted.

In cold weather with hook-ups, we use a small electric space heater. One advantage of a 16-footer is that it doesn't take much to keep the place toasty.

We have used the furnace under the bed a few times when boondocking, on a very low setting. Usually the dog sleeps under there, however.

The main thing is to keep the roof hatch just a bit ajar, as condensation inside seems to be more of a problem than staying warm.
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:49 PM   #17
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Isn't this a wonderful place to share opinions and feelings...

By now the leveling issues is pretty much resolved, and it doesn't "hurt" the fridge to be running when traveling.. It also doesn't matter how you heat the insides when temperatures are comfortably above freezing.. Heat Strip/Pump, Electric heater, propane, oil electric type...)

The answers that haven't been really emphasized are:

1. Running fridge while driving and crashing can be bad, and lead to fire damage on top of collision damage.. Owner risk management call.. Some tunnels and many ferry boats (like Washington State or BC Ferries on west coast) require propane valves off and tagged) before you pull on the boat.. Some will also demand gas cans for generators be emptied (into vehicle tank easiest..).
2. Turning off auto ignition doesn't affect fridge in trailer.. To turn it off, you must go in and turn it off, which is also good idea when fueling and fumes are present near fridge burner...
3. When temps below freezing, ONLY the propane furnace directs air under the floor to keep water lines and fresh water tank from freezing and being damaged.. All the other methods heat only above the floor.. Frozen pipes create a lot of interesting challenges and leaks in difficult places.
4. If you are boondocking and living off battery, running fridge does draw current for controller and fans in some models.. Most boondockers are adding solar panels of some sort to at least replace gentle daytime power losses..
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:39 PM   #18
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F450Harley,

Not to change the subject, how did get go about changing your fuel tanks to 110 Gallons. I just bought a new truck (2012 Ram 2500 Diesel) and want at least 100 gals. Was it a replacement or auxiliary? Will it void an original warranty?

Thanks

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Old 10-31-2012, 02:54 AM   #19
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F450Harley,

Not to change the subject, how did get go about changing your fuel tanks to 110 Gallons. I just bought a new truck (2012 Ram 2500 Diesel) and want at least 100 gals. Was it a replacement or auxiliary? Will it void an original warranty?

Thanks

FreedomRider
FreedomRider,
40 gall OEM tank plus 75 gall auxiliary aluminum under bed cover tank by ATA tanks. Total of 115 galls but you can only pull 110galls as you know . It fits perfect in my 2012 GMC Denali & F450 beds and under the rolling bed cover really out of site. See pics below.


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Old 10-31-2012, 09:17 AM   #20
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We are heading out on our 2nd trip this weekend, so excited.
Also, which is better to heat the AS. The heater on the floor, or the unit on the ceiling?

Thank you,
Karen
As a fellow 16 footer, I have found that the floor unit works well, but is very noisy. Of course it uses your propane. The a/c heat strip is a little quieter (I added some foam in between the plastic frame and ceiling to quiet down some of the vibrations, tho). But when I have electric hookups I use a small Vornado heater placed under the table. It works great and is very quiet. The built in thermostat turns the fan on and off, with the heat as needed. I haven't found anything better for such a small area. I used to use it on a sailboat I owned when in dock.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:24 AM   #21
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F450Harley,

Not to change the subject, how did get go about changing your fuel tanks to 110 Gallons. I just bought a new truck (2012 Ram 2500 Diesel) and want at least 100 gals. Was it a replacement or auxiliary? Will it void an original warranty?

Thanks

FreedomRider
Replacing the underbed tank with one from TITAN or TRANSFERFLOW (varying capacities) is popular. See info on Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum in one or more threads on 4th Gen trucks.

Note that you are reducing payload capacity once installed & filled.

.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:30 PM   #22
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Isn't this a wonderful place to share opinions and feelings...

.....3. When temps below freezing, ONLY the propane furnace directs air under the floor to keep water lines and fresh water tank from freezing and being damaged.. All the other methods heat only above the floor.. Frozen pipes create a lot of interesting challenges and leaks in difficult places.
4. If you are boondocking and living off battery, running fridge does draw current for controller and fans in some models.. Most boondockers are adding solar panels of some sort to at least replace gentle daytime power losses..
Interesting!

We have an external furnace heating vent on the side by the furnace, and then the cupboard space under the bed to the rear is sort of like the trunk of a car. So the propane furnace must have something out-of-view for heating under the rest of the floor?

We tend to be conservative in favour of early winterizing and late de-winterizing, for the reasons you mentioned.

We checked out solar roof panels at our "local" (Spokane) AS dealer, but unfortunately with a 16-footer, there doesn't seem to be enough roof space (deducting for the hatch, AC, &c) to make it worthwhile. We now have two batteries, which work better than the one single one did. We also have a Honda 2000 generator. We are also trying to keep the batteries charged more often, which was probably part of our problem in the past.

Are there better small solar panels out there? We don't like the idea of the portables very much.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:43 AM   #23
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F450Harley and REDNAX

Thanks for your info. I have also joined the Cummins Forum. Now, I will do my research to see how best to expand my fuel capacity.

Happy Trails
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:34 PM   #24
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My 2 cents

I have never turned off the frig. Naturally the big question lies at refueling. I think it comes down to common sense. Still air and gas fumes all over the place turn it off right away. A good cross wind...no problem. Gas is the problem, not diesel. BTW don't forget to turn it back on. It works great underway.

Randy Bowman
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:30 PM   #25
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Len & Jeanne-

The "external" vent I believe is just small round exhaust for CO to exit from burner..

Yes, there is another furnace duct to "basement" under floor to keep tanks and water piping from freezing.. Good news is that it must be colder than 32 degrees to freeze and damage piping or valves. Still laugh about sounds like rainbird sprinkler when toilet flush valve froze & cracked, and we turned on water pump...
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