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Glenn G · 05-05-2009, 10:43 AM

Equalizer is a great product. Ive had our 23' out in 50 mph cross winds with 60 to 70 MPH gusts with hardly a side movement at all. First DO NOT UNTORQUE (new word) THE TIGHTNESS AT ANYTIME EVER. If it's set let it be. If it needs increase in torque do it, but do not undo it. Second (and this is just my way of managing the noise) on a long trip or when I expect hard cross winds or rain etc. I leave the rods dry and let maximum friction do the job. When the trip is short, I don't see any rough road conditions and the campground entry is daytime (so I don't disturb the natives) I use the teflon pads. Incidently I've had the teflon pads on it in high cross wind and they did fine even with less friction.

OB Bambi · 05-05-2009, 10:20 PM

I mainly notice the noise (creaking and growning) mostly when I back-up. I believe what causes it is when the "L" brackets become slighly loose. Mine have a square head bolt that presses on the trailer frame. I just tighten them up and the noise goes away. I don't use grease except on the ball and the hinge points where the bars go into the hitch. I don't have any nylon or teflon glides that let the bar ride freely on the "L" brackets.

Randy

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-06-2009, 12:49 AM

Hi, I posted this before somewhere, but I don't know where it's at. So I will tell it again. I took my hitch head apart, cleaned everything, and re-assembled it with Anti-seize. Torqued the pivot bolts at 45 lbs and I use teflon grease for the ball. I do not lube the "L" brackets and I don't use the plastic pads. My creaking and groaning are at a minimum. [about 90% gone] Gene please post pictures of your Equal-i-zer aluminum parts. My hitch is all steel.

Mexray · 05-06-2009, 01:49 AM

Yeah, I've been scratching my head, reading about 'aluminum' L brackets, also!...

If you are referring to the square stock, L shaped 'pins' (with a hairpin clip) that you drop into the frame brackets after placing the torsion bars...well, mine are cadmium plated steel - they may look 'aluminum' but they're not on my hitch.... aluminum pins would wear out in a big hurry, with all that rubbing back and forth!

Touch em' with a magnet if you think I'm kidding...

Gene · 05-06-2009, 04:24 AM

Mexray, that explains why the aluminum-appearing L's haven't been destroyed. They don't act like aluminum, but they sure look like it. Calling them "pins" makes more sense since they function like "pins". Sorry if I'm confusing people, a reflection of my own confusion.

I couldn't find the instructions before we left on our trip and haven't bothered to print out new ones from the website because although we brought a printer along, it's a pain to set it up. The instructions that Equalizer sent me weren't the clearest I've ever seen and all the posts on this product seem to indicate a lot of us don't entirely understand it. Even so, it seems to work for everyone. I do recall something that the black L brackets move too—the bolt (Randy calls it the "head bolt") that goes through them to the tongue doesn't lock them in place and they pivot a bit on it. Is this the "pivot bolt" as Bob calls it? I believe I read the bolt doesn't get tightened so much to immobilize the black bracket.

Gene

ROBERTSUNRUS · 05-06-2009, 09:18 PM

Hi, what I call the pivot bolts are the two on the head unit where the female ends for the spring bars attach. The square headed bolts for the "L" brackets can be tightened enough so as the "L" brackets don't move.

Gene · 05-07-2009, 02:57 PM

Got it. I checked the bolts on the L brackets and one was loose, so this thread did help me think to check them.

Gene

Relentless · 05-10-2009, 07:03 PM

I find that I have to check those bolts every time I stop. Sometimes one or both are loose, sometimes not. I have yet to figure out what causes them to loosen.

John

Inland RV Center, In · 05-10-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Relentless

I find that I have to check those bolts every time I stop. Sometimes one or both are loose, sometimes not. I have yet to figure out what causes them to loosen.

John

Quite possibly, it's the design of the hitch.

Many owners report the same problems.

Reese doesn't have that problem, and offers a superior sway control with their "dual cam."

Also Reese's sway control is "torsion" not friction.

Rain lubes friction sway controls, but has zero effect on torsion sway controls.

Andy

Relentless · 05-11-2009, 07:24 AM

Andy;

Now you tell me. Where were you 2 years ago when I was buying a hitch?

Oh well. Maybe next time. I hope there are others who are reading this thread that haven't yet made the decision on which hitch to buy.

John

Inland RV Center, In · 05-11-2009, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Relentless

Andy;

Now you tell me. Where were you 2 years ago when I was buying a hitch?

Oh well. Maybe next time. I hope there are others who are reading this thread that haven't yet made the decision on which hitch to buy.

John

I was here.

Nobody asked the question.

Andy

cegardner · 06-02-2014, 09:21 AM

please see my issue I just posted about a bolt shearing off our equalizer hitch while towing our 22 fb sport. We had much noise these last tows. we will call equalizer for feedback. this occurred after the noise became very excessive

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-02-2014, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cegardner

please see my issue I just posted about a bolt shearing off our equalizer hitch while towing our 22 fb sport. We had much noise these last tows. we will call equalizer for feedback. this occurred after the noise became very excessive

Hi, which bolt? Do you have a picture of it? Have you maintained your hitch, cleaned, and lubed where necessary?

**jcanavera** · 06-03-2014, 06:00 AM

Typically the noise generated from an Equal-I-zer brand hitch is generated from the L bracket as the bars slide along in its mounting. I've checked the pivot bolts next to the head annually and have only had to torque them to specs once in the 10 years I've owned this hitch. That was when the hitch was fairly new and was still breaking in.

Prior to owning this hitch, I used a Reese dual cam hitch. The hitch bars that sit in the dual cam saddle also creak and moan in slow speed turns as they slide through the saddle. The Equal-i-zer is louder than the Reese but the friction is what you want. It is not unusual for these to make noise when backing or driving slowly through a campground and is not always an indicator of something being too loose. Just make sure you inspect the pivot bolts and torque them to specs. Check the brackets mounted to the a frame of the trailer and make sure they are tight.

Jack

Belbein · 06-08-2014, 12:20 PM

So, beyond mere NOISE, I have damage to the small hitch where the friction bar attaches to the trailer hitch. The cup on the forward end of the friction bar is compressed just enough that I can't get it off the ball, and the ball is pushed slightly forward. I might have done this when I was backing into my driveway, and perhaps because I really tightened down on the tension. But in any case: do I need to replace both that little ball and also the piece of the tension bar that's on the inside?

**jcanavera** · 06-08-2014, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Belbein

So, beyond mere NOISE, I have damage to the small hitch where the friction bar attaches to the trailer hitch. The cup on the forward end of the friction bar is compressed just enough that I can't get it off the ball, and the ball is pushed slightly forward. I might have done this when I was backing into my driveway, and perhaps because I really tightened down on the tension. But in any case: do I need to replace both that little ball and also the piece of the tension bar that's on the inside?

Unless things have changed it sounds like you do not have an Equal-i-zer branded hitch. This brand of hitch does not require any adjustments for tension. You might identify your brand of hitch so that someone knowledgeable can help you.

Jack