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10-18-2016, 04:26 PM
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#21
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Rivet Master
2021 27' Globetrotter
Fort Lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avionstream
That's it. Hook thr trailer to the front hitch and drive forward pushing the trailer.
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I had no idea one can put the receiver of the hitch on the front of the TV, never saw it done either. That looks a very interesting (even crazy) proposition, but... crazy surprised me before and was right! . Thank you, will try tomorrow morning.
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10-18-2016, 04:35 PM
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#22
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Rivet Master
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,996
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It's unusual but more common than we realize. It's very handy for moving things around while facing them.
Etrailer sells them and Carid had an interesting article on its possible uses.
__________________
Hittenstiehl
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10-18-2016, 04:36 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
2021 27' Globetrotter
Fort Lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 606
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Indeed, I just saw several models online, that seems to be a solution for my issue. Anyone with experience pushing (towing) a trailer up a curving driveway? How challenging is it?
Thanks for the idea, this can make it possible for me to get tomorrow the F350 ( I fly to Europe Friday, don't have much time to decide).
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10-18-2016, 05:24 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover
Most if not all front receivers are not capable of the TW of one of these trailers.
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I would think moving a trailer is different than towing a trailer. I'm not an engineer and don't know how to calc these things, but I know the speeds are way different, thus less the bouncing around and I would imagine that would have to be taken into account. Moving a trailer on a front hitch at slow speeds for a relatively short distance should be fine.
I know at our previous "city" lot, we had to use a measly garden tractor with a ball welded to the back to move our trailer from the alley into it's parking space....I'm certain it wasn't qualified to tow our trailer - but it worked to move it.
Shari
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10-18-2016, 05:30 PM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown
, California
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 424
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Hi Vitaver! Are you going to get 4 wheel drive? Can you run a wheel off the pavement while turning without tearing up some expensive landscaping? A front hitch is probably the way to go but if your driveway is real steep you might spin the rear tires without enough weight on the drive wheels. You could put a few barrels of water or some sand bags in the bed if you need more traction, or shift to 4 low if the truck has it. Be careful not to bind the 4WD drive train on a paved surface going frontwards or backwards. Also years ago a transmission guy told me the main reason for fried GM Turbo 400's was people backing heavy things up onto leveling blocks because most automatics were geared higher in reverse than in low. If your driveway is steep you might want to check TV specs. carefully. Years ago my neighbor had a really steep concrete driveway about 200 feet long and unusually steep; and owned a front wheel drive GMC motor-home. He could get almost to the top where it was flat by smoking the tires and leaving some long black streaks of rubber going forward. He made it to the flat area a few times by backing up but then he had to get the transmission rebuilt. After 2 transmissions and a couple of tires on the front he rented a storage spot. It took years for the tire marks to go away! Man, I wish I had video of the frontal assaults on that driveway but it was before You-Tube!
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10-18-2016, 05:49 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2015 28' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alluminati
Got my first taste of steep descent with a trailer two weeks ago on a drive to the west coast followed by a tour around Yellowstone. We crossed the Continental Divide several times in a matter of days. Dunraven Pass was our highest elevation at 8,859 ft. But the longest steepest descents were on the interstate. One hill in Montana had a 25 mph speed limit for trucks over 12,000 lbs. (I’m nearly 16,000 lbs.)
MrUKToad is correct. Select your speed BEFORE you begin the descent. What other drivers think of your speed is none of your business. Would you rather have them angry for getting stuck behind you, or think you are a fool for flying downhill too fast? If you’re going too fast, those who think you are a fool are correct.
I have a CDL with passenger endorsement, but was unable to be tested on steep hills since there are none in my area. Our recent trip put that technical knowledge to good use. The CORRECT way to descend is brake BEFORE the hill. Most major roadways will have a sign telling you 5, 6, or 7%. This will tell you what gear you need, and how much braking you will do. I learned that with my setup, 5% feels good at 50-60 mph, 6% 35-45 mph, and 7% 25-35 mph. At 6%, I brake to 35 before the hill, and put my 6 speed tranny in 3rd. DONT TOUCH THE BRAKE until the truck reaches 45. Then press the brake firmly (no jabbing) to slow the truck from 45 back to 35. Then take your foot OFF the brake while it slowly climbs back to 45.
If the truck races back to your top speed, you are in the wrong gear. Brake to the right speed, and downshift further. As long as you are not violating your redline, the scream of your racing engine is perfectly harmless, and using no more gas than you do at idle. (I had to reassure my alarmed wife repeatedly.)
Riding your brake lightly produces enormous heat with nearly zero benefit. The heat will cause brake failure without causing a fire. You won’t know you’ve lost your brakes until you really need them. Jabbing the brakes could jackknife your trailer.
When descending at reasonable speed, the load PUSHING on your trailer hitch is the same as the load PULLING on your hitch when you are accelerating normally. When braking normally on a steep hill (ex. from 45 down to 35) your trailer brakes are engaged normally, and your load will remain straight.
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Very good post, Alluminati!
I use the same techniques with our 5675 lb FC23FB behind our Jeep GC Diesel 8 sp. Developed through experience living here in CO and crossing many of the steep passes, at times in less than desirable conditions. Been caught descending in sudden hailstorms in July!
No embarrassment in going slow in the right lane with flashers on.
Safe Travels,
Joe
__________________
Safe Travels,
Joe & Joan Donnaway
Durango, CO
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10-18-2016, 07:40 PM
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#27
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Rivet Master
2021 27' Globetrotter
Fort Lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 606
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Thank you, makes sense. Indeed a search for those front hitches shows that the max tongue weight is 500 pounds.
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10-18-2016, 08:26 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
2021 27' Globetrotter
Fort Lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 606
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Hi iJustlee, it will be a 4X4. The 750 pounds of the tongue over the front hitch should give those tires enough traction I suppose. The rear tires will have more weight (and traction) dues to gravity (is not just a good idea, is the law! . There is no good landscaping but a retaining wall on one side, and a steep 'fall' on the other, so I need to do it right. Yes, if it proves too challenging, after trying my best, I may end up placing her with a good neighbor next door who volunteered space, he has a 2 acre lot. Thanks!
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