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Old 06-01-2013, 08:30 AM   #15
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... any other thoughts on the dripping near the city water? I'm thinking it must be the ac condensate...
The A/C has a drain tube that typically exits in the street side wheel well. It normally drips any time the A/C is running and may release a burst of water when the A/C cycles off. The fridge also has a drain tube that most often exits at the bottom of the fridge outside access/vent door. The condensation will drip down the side of the trailer from the bottom of the door. This only happens if the fridge cycles off long enough for the frost buildup on the cooling fins to melt (not often) and when the fridge is switched off and defrosts.

Any other drips need to be investigated. Many times it is a water line connection that needs to be tightened. Access on yours may be through the closet floor. Look at the clamps on the water inlet tube and the hand tightened fittings around the water pump.

If this is where the city water connects below the floor, there are fittings behind the metal panel that can be accessed by removing a few screws.
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:39 AM   #16
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I imagine a lot of RVers go through that shock the first time they start the fridge. I either start our fridge the day before, where it's stored or park it in the driveway overnight with the fridge going before we leave, and then put a lot of cold food in it.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:52 PM   #17
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Great to hear the good news! One of my "favorite mods under $100" was a $10 remote thermometer from Walmart. It has a large display that shows indoor temp and outdoor temp via a remote sensor. I put the remote sensor inside the refrigerator rather than outside the trailer. This helps me monitor the temperature inside the refrigerator and I don't have to open the door. I also replaced the incandescent festoon bulb in the refrigerator light fixture with an LED bulb from LEDs 4, Recreational Vehicles to help keep the temperature from increasing inside. This little thermometer has been a real education by seeing what the effects are of having the door open or putting warm leftovers back inside.
But how can you tell if the light's off when you shut the door? Maybe a remote camera!!:
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Old 06-02-2013, 06:30 AM   #18
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Well, funny you ask. . .

My refrigerator is one of the small ones that has two vents on the exterior sidewall and no roof vent. Which means it also does not come with an interior light. I bought the parts online and installed it myself. To test the placement of the switch to make sure the light turned off with the door closed, I put my iPhone in movie mode, set it on the shelf inside, closed the door, then watched the movie! ;-) Darkness in the middle of the short video confirmed I had the switch in the right place.

But methinks you were just kidding with the question. . .
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:07 AM   #19
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a related thread talks about a second function of the fridge interior light. i would have quoted lewster himself but i found this thread first :-)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ved-79785.html
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:28 AM   #20
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a related thread talks about a second function of the fridge interior light. i would have quoted lewster himself but i found this thread first :-)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...ved-79785.html
Not all Dometic fridges have them, but many have what is called a 'low ambient temperature switch' located on the frame right above the top of the fridge door. This switch is designed to keep the interior light on in very low ambient temps, causing the interior of the fridge to heat up and force the cooling unit to operate. This is done to keep the food in the freezer section well below 32F.

If you intend to travel anywhere the ambient temperatures are expected to be below 40F, this function will do nothing to keep your fridge running IF you have removed the OEM incandescent bulb, as LEDs produce almost no heat. OTOH, if you never plan on being in any type of cold weather, or do not have the low ambient temp. switch, them LEDs will work fine.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:53 AM   #21
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iPhone in the fridge. Genius!!
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:12 AM   #22
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So one other question then about starting the fridge the night before. I assume that first, I'll have to engage the battery (not plugged in to shore power where the trailer is parked), second, I'll have to have the propane tanks open and third I would run just on propane (not auto) to not drain the batteries. I'm also assuming it would not be a good idea to have the umbilical cord plugged in to the TV as that might drain my TV starter battery. Does that all sound about right?
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:34 AM   #23
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that sounds good. auto will work too because with no shore power it will default to gas. some folks make blocks of ice using zip lock bags, plastic food storage containers or gallon beverage containers (milk jugs etc.) and leave them in the fridge when firing it up. the freezer chills pretty quickly so i just put mine in the fridge. this reduces the time it takes to chill the fridge. since most of my stays are seasonal i do this when i need to defrost too. i make a few ice blocks and transfer everything to a cooler while the ice melts. reducing the temp setting one number the night before makes the frost melt sooner too.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:28 PM   #24
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Thanks richinny. Does "shore power" include being connected to the TV? It gets some charge while being towed and I'm more inclined to keep it running on elec rather than propane while traveling if possible....but won't connect them overnight so I don't drain my truck's battery...
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:36 PM   #25
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Thanks richinny. Does "shore power" include being connected to the TV? It gets some charge while being towed and I'm more inclined to keep it running on elec rather than propane while traveling if possible....but won't connect them overnight so I don't drain my truck's battery...
TV 12-volt power is not shore power. Unless you have a replacement fridge, it's just 2-way, not 3-way, so it never cools on 12v, it just requires 12v for the control board and display. 3-way fridges DO exist, but I don't think Airstream uses them in any trailer because they'll drain the batteries in a hurry.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:47 PM   #26
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Many thanks all!
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:14 PM   #27
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For the overnight start-up, I unplug the trailer from the tow vehicle for the night because our driveway isn't level and I can't level it front to back connected to the car. I think I just use gas to power the fridge, not 120v from the house- it kind of depends, if I'm vacuuming the trailer, the 120 is hooked up and.. stuff. Like I pay a lot of attention. It just takes awhile, but then it works great. Happy camping!
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:35 PM   #28
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Early in my camping days, my Dometic Refer just would not cool down at all, what I found the problem to be was that I was not pushing to door shut until I hear a click from the latch..........the click was the key for me........worked just as advertised since.

Just don't want to throw water on you "flux capacitor" adjusting guys.......just saying, as my kids say
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