Do folks reduce brake gain in rain?

[LyleRussell]

To set brake gain one must find an empty parking lot and start hard braking from 20 mph. If the brakes lock reduce gain. If the trailer pushes or the truck doesn't stop well add gain. My Ford owners manual says 6 is a good starting point. On an 2015 F150 with. 9000 gvw AS 27' Classic I have found that 7.5 works best in the dry. So far I have camped or parked before having to deal with strong rain.

Leaving the gain at what the dealer guesses is a disaster waiting to happen.

I'm reading that the consensus is don't change gain once set? This is contrary to what I've been told verbally by other drivers.

[LyleRussell]

To clarify, the other driver I referred to was the service technician at Colonial.

[ROBERT CROSS]

"I'm reading that the consensus is don't change gain once set? This is contrary to what I've been told verbally by other drivers."

LR,

Setting once might work if every outing was exactly the same....not so much in the real world.....

Better to set once for every outing.

My routine, start TV, after idle stabilizes, put in gear adjust gain to stop & hold, keep it at that threshold, ck again at 10-15mph to dial in. Setting to just before trailer lock-up has not worked well with our Classic & TruControl combination.

Major load change may require further adjustment.

In my experience, (Tekonsha & TruControl), more gain does not effect engagement timing. I have found that if your controller is wired into the brake light wiring, your trailer brakes will engage before the master cylinder applies pressure.

Bob

[TLBIJOU]

As the Duke stated above, I am a former owner operator and have driven several million miles accident free! tHE BIGGEST REASON--- I KNEW HOW TO CONTROL THE TRAIER BEHIND ME! Increase trailer braking on any pavement that is not dry. You'll always keep the two of them straight and under control. You never want to look out and see your trailer passing you!!!

[LyleRussell]

I agree that changes to loading require re-testing/setting the brake gain. But the only significant load change I do is to add or drain the fresh water tank depending if I am boonieing it or not. Brakes are set up for the greatest possible load.

My Ford manual says not to routinely use the brake controller knobs to stop. But In slippery conditions braking the trailer first seems a better idea. That will keep things in a straight line and avoid a jackknife. TLBIJOU I think we are saying the same thing with different words. I.e. Leave the gain alone and use the trailer brakes alone in slippery conditions. I'm not sure why Ford doesn't agree.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by LyleRussell

I agree that changes to loading require re-testing/setting the brake gain. But the only significant load change I do is to add or drain the fresh water tank depending if I am boonieing it or not. Brakes are set up for the greatest possible load.

My Ford manual says not to routinely use the brake controller knobs to stop. But In slippery conditions braking the trailer first seems a better idea. That will keep things in a straight line and avoid a jackknife. TLBIJOU I think we are saying the same thing with different words. I.e. Leave the gain alone and use the trailer brakes alone in slippery conditions. I'm not sure why Ford doesn't agree.

I believe routinely is the keyword. I am not going to do the research to be sure, but I'm guessing that trailer brakes are not designed to routinely brake for the trailer and the TV. It seems to me that the time between trailer brake overhaul would be reduced and the chance of failure wound be increased if the trailer brakes were routinely manually actuated.

Ken

[LyleRussell]

OK Thanx everybody.

[m.hony]

The reason for the hand control other than testing is to regain control if sway begins or the trailer is trying to pass you. Trailer brakes first to straighten the rig.


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[LyleRussell]

Got it. Thanx all.