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Old 07-26-2009, 08:55 AM   #43
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Wow....interesting thread. And to think, we'd know none of this info on this product if it weren't for the passive-aggressive diva CG owner! He really needs to read "How to win friends and influence people." Wolverine, keep us posted when you learn more about this regulation. Thanks for sharing.


Lisa and Paul

2008 23' Int. CCD "The Atomic Pod"
2002 Chinook Destiny | 1973 13' Boler (fiberglass egg) "The Boiler"
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:05 AM   #44
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I'm sure that's one CG owner that will never mess with anyone's sweet sewer fittings again! I'm sure it was the highlight of his day.

Personally, if I see someone that leaves their Hydroflush/Flushking/Tornado hooked up to the potable water supply I simply head in the opposite direction.

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Old 07-26-2009, 09:29 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by yakman View Post

20 to 25 minutes? Are you brushing and flossing the black tank?
I'd say we could dump and flush in no more than 15 minutes.

Another question to pose to Hydro-Flush users: if there is no threat of backflow, why use a different hose to do the flush?

I think the fact that it takes longer to get clear water with the Flush King shows to me it does a better job of getting all the waste out. There's always stuff that sticks to the sides as water sloshes around during driving. I sure get tired of flushing and flushing, but it takes a lot of water to clean the tank. I believe the flushing system that came on our trailer does not have as much water flow into the tank, so it takes longer to fill the tank, and therefore, the waste up higher in the tank may not get touched. I imagine if you fill the tank with it, and cover the outflow, and the potable system fails, there could also be a cross connection. Using a wand in the toilet may be a better system than all of them for cleaning because it should spray the sides of the tank from the top down, but stringing a dedicated hose all the way around to the toilet is more than most people want to do.

I use a dedicated hose for the Flush King as a backup because there's always a limited threat of cross connection. Someone mentioned the possibility of a potable water system failure causing a vacuum which sucks dirty water into the system from a cross connection. That is the real threat, not the remote possibility that the pressure of the black tank water will force water into a normally operating potable water supply. Some water companies permit a connection with a backflow preventer—just a one way valve—and some do not. That valve can fail just like anything can fail, but the chances of failure are very small. And when the waste water has a choice between flowing straight out a 4" flexible pipe, or going sideways through a 5/8" hose and probably uphill to a potable water faucet, which way is it going to go, even with some vacuum on the potable system?

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Old 07-26-2009, 05:13 PM   #46
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I misremembered

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
If there were no outlet from the black tank, the tank would expand and that can cause lots of trouble and that has been reported on another thread. If the soil stack is blocked—say from a bird's nest built while the trailer is stored—you could have a problem. Someone had the floor pop up and some supports bend.

Now it comes back to me, or did when I was filling my fresh water tank. Someone overfilled their fresh water tank, the floor popped up and I think tank supports were bent. If you jam a hose in the inlet so overflow can't get out, and the relief hole is blocked, that could happen.

That's a reason for the adapter that fits on the end of a hose and goes into the tank so you don't have to stand there holding the hose or jam it in.

With the black tank (and grey too) if their soil stack was blocked, the same thing could happen, but it might take a condor's nest to be heavy enough to hold back the water pressure.

Thought to ponder: if we have black and grey tanks, what color is the fresh water tank? The water that comes out of the grey tank is not grey, but kind of soapy colored, so shouldn't it be the cream tank?


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