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Old 10-29-2014, 12:11 PM   #29
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I do not have a Tundra. I have an older Ford 150 so I know a bit about brake shimmy. I read a post a while back by Gene who said that at some point Tundra went to thinner rotors and his new Tundra developed this shimmy whereas his old Tundra did not. I think the ultimate solution is to install a better set of rotors if that is possible.
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:45 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post

Roror warping due to heat is really pretty uncommon, unless you REALLY abuse the brakes, as evidenced by blueing of the rotor.
And yet- many experienced and knowledgeable technicians suggest seating / burnishing high performance brakes / rotors to get best braking results. The process is repetitive hard braking from 60+ down to zero ...repeated multiple times. The check for that burnishing is to see the bluing on the rotors after burnishing. So, then the key is to not overheat to cause rotor warping ... not simply the bluing of the rotor.
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:50 PM   #31
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It's definitely your rotors I had the same issue on my 2007 limited double cab towing our 25ft excella replaced the rear rotors and pads and had the fronts turned, problem solved
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:57 PM   #32
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I believe driving with the four ways on is illegal in Florida. Don't get a ticket. Jim
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:05 PM   #33
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I believe driving with the four ways on is illegal in Florida. Don't get a ticket. Jim

Well in that I probably won't encounter any 6% grades in Florida, I don't think it will be an issue.....
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:26 AM   #34
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I think you my be right on with this. Thanks!
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:28 AM   #35
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Rotor heating makes most sense. Toyota checked mine and are OK. But they may warp went hot and then reset when cooling. I found out we can get a heavy duty / high performance rotor when they wear out.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:30 AM   #36
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Thanks for the input. Am easy on brakes and speed when going down hill.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:31 AM   #37
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I agree, a more heavy duty rotor needed.
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:42 AM   #38
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Infrared thermometer, been mentioned many times by many folks as a great tool for evaluating brakes. That vehicles energy gets turned into heat at the brakes.

Highest temp I ever personally shot on AS rotor was over 800 deg F due to caliper piston sticking. It was smoking. Not any more , I fixed it.

Service manuals have rotor inspection procedures. Anybody ever challenge the service mgr for the readings from for example using a dial indicator or caliper for actual data? As opposed to, naw the tech said they were OK.

Hey Rich, ever get involved with Martensite hot spots on rotors or drums?
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Old 10-30-2014, 11:39 AM   #39
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There are aftermarket rotors out there with lots of whistles and bells, some of which maybe snake oil and some not. Stainless steel rotors would be best if they make them. Also something that is a billet and not cast would be good. Rotors warp because the structure of the metal is not uniform which is common for castings.

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Old 10-30-2014, 03:21 PM   #40
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Infrared thermometer, been mentioned many times by many folks as a great tool for evaluating brakes. That vehicles energy gets turned into heat at the brakes.

Highest temp I ever personally shot on AS rotor was over 800 deg F due to caliper piston sticking. It was smoking. Not any more , I fixed it.

Service manuals have rotor inspection procedures. Anybody ever challenge the service mgr for the readings from for example using a dial indicator or caliper for actual data? As opposed to, naw the tech said they were OK.

Hey Rich, ever get involved with Martensite hot spots on rotors or drums?
Rarely...and I can't specifically say what the spots were/had become. I do recall thay caused a back and forth (longitudinal) pulsation sensation with no steering wheel shimmy nor pedal pulsation. And it's a more rapid frequency pulsation/vibration than wheel rotational frequency...or even second order, common to thickness variation.

Rotors did have irregular patches of odd discoloration. That's a replace issue. Seem to recall lathe skipped and jumped all around the spots and damaged the cutting tips.
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Old 10-30-2014, 03:36 PM   #41
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And yet- many experienced and knowledgeable technicians suggest seating / burnishing high performance brakes / rotors to get best braking results. The process is repetitive hard braking from 60+ down to zero ...repeated multiple times. The check for that burnishing is to see the bluing on the rotors after burnishing. So, then the key is to not overheat to cause rotor warping ... not simply the bluing of the rotor.

I've "properly" burnished many a brake, and never blued them. That's excessive, IMO. All you are trying to accomplish is mating new pads to a fresh rotor cut.

This is the proper procedure out of the Caprice Police PPV service manual:

"Brake Pad and Rotor Burnishing
Warning: Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Warning: Refer to Brake Dust Warning.

Important: Burnishing the brake pads and brake discs is necessary whenever the brake discs have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the brake pads have been replaced to make sure that the braking surfaces are correctly prepared.

 1. Select a smooth road with little or no traffic.
 2. Accelerate the vehicle to 70 km/h (43 mph).
Important: Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step as it may adversely affect the heating characteristics of the NEW brake pad material.

Important: DO NOT allow the brakes to lock.

 3. Using moderate pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop.
 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods of no less than 500 metres between stops in order to correctly burnish the brake pads and brake discs."

Do this and you will not blue rotors.
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Old 10-30-2014, 03:50 PM   #42
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If Toyota offers a large enough displacement diesel option with engine exhaust brake, that will make brake application unnecessary on most declines. That is my experience with the 6.7 liter Cummins. The 3 liter Mercedes in the ML320 slows the car down well and I was able to get 105,000 mile on the original brake pads.
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