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Old 10-28-2014, 12:31 PM   #15
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Intuitive transmission

Tundra is the first automatic transmission vehicle that I have ever owned (Camry is my wife's car) mostly because I never really liked the way that automatic transmissions drove back in the day

but I have to say that for pulling the AS and especially going down grades...whether in tow haul or in sport mode, it's really awesome at keeping the whole rig at a safe speed....

so i'll ask this question in terms of not getting run over by idiots.... if I know that I'm going to be going at a safe, but well below speed limit speed on a downgrade, or up for that matter, I will flip on my emergency flashers just to make sure that if someone misses the slow moving big silver trailer that the lights will get there attention. I started doing this a couple of seasons ago after a semi, hauling steel, nearly ran me down on the grade dropping down towards Nashville on I-40 going east. If he missed the back corner of the AS by a foot I'd be exaggerating.

Does everybody do this (the flashers I mean) or is it just me being overly cautious with the DW's AS?

Dana
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Old 10-28-2014, 12:33 PM   #16
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So does tow/haul mode work best when the transmission is in D? Unless a level road I always run in S 5. Will tow/haul downshift from any gear (unless too fast for the next lowest gear)?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 10-28-2014, 12:48 PM   #17
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I always use Tow/Haul mode when towing with the '08 Tundra. T/H changes the shift pattern when engaged. The Tundra has "S" and "D" selection on the gear shift. I use the "S" mode. It sets the maximum top gear the transmission will shift to.
Normally I have it set in 4th gear, but on level highways I may go to 5th. Rarely use cruise control, because when it drops below the set speed it hammers the throttle down to regain speed.
When approaching a hill going down. I will shift back to 3rd or maybe 2nd. Depending on how long and steep the hill. If I need to apply the brakes more than every mile or so. I choose a lower gear.
An alarm will sound if one tries to shift into 2nd above 45 mph.
One must consider. Every time the TV brakes are applied, the trailer brakes activate as well. Since most trailers today have drum brakes. The shoes wear considerably faster than disk brake pads.
If the TV. Brakes are used enough to overheat and warp the rotors. Imagine what is going on with the trailer.
Hot brake drums will cause overheated wheel bearings. And may cause bearing failure do to the grease melting.
Signs of this will be grease in the back plate assembly and/or seepage at the dust cover.


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Old 10-28-2014, 01:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Part urban legend, and part truth....left over from the 90s when mfrs were so hell bent on reducing unsprung mass that rotors were very thin. I haven't seen, on my job, that issue for a very long time.



Riding the brakes down a hill will warp, but again you will see blued rotors if they were ever hot enough to warp, regardless if panic stop induced or from riding.



Well over 90% of pulsation I see is from thickness variation.

I have experienced it-
Mostly in Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana-
Maybe that platform is outdated/inadequate.
Maybe my Tundra's wobble didn't come from one panic stop- maybe it was 2-3- maybe 7 years of use-
At the April oil change and new tires everything was cool. The problem developed over the summer. It is intermittent- only wobbles when hot-
When it becomes constant I will turn or replace the rotors.
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:35 PM   #19
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brake shimmy

I have had a 2009 tundra and 2014 tundra and never had a issue with brake shimmy-I always use tow haul and downshift going down steep grades-and there are folks out there that go flying down steep grades or sit on their brakes the whole way down-both tundras have pulled great with no issues and pulled a 27' safari-jeffg
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Old 10-28-2014, 03:21 PM   #20
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I do use the flashers on when I believe it would help others see me better. Especially in rain etc. Wolf146
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Old 10-28-2014, 03:24 PM   #21
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2008 Tundra CrewMax TRD Limited with tow package, 5.7L, 2WD, 65,000 miles. I do NOT use tow/haul mode, but manually downshift on long grades low enough that brakes are unnecessary, except for emergency stops.

We have towed our 19' Bambi in Rocky Mountains, Sierra Nevadas, Cascades, and throughout the West.

No brake problems, so far.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:06 PM   #22
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Nothing lasts forever. My truck is 8 model years old-
Shucks, it even still has the original battery. When it comes time to replace the battery or brake rotors I can't complain. The only maintenance other than oil changes has been 1 set of tires, 1 serpentine accessory drive belt, 1 fog light bulb, 1 air filter, and 2 cabin filters- not bad for 6 years of ownership and 4 1/2 years of camper pullin'-
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Nothing lasts forever. My truck is 8 model years old-
Shucks, it even still has the original battery. When it comes time to replace the battery or brake rotors I can't complain. The only maintenance other than oil changes has been 1 set of tires, 1 serpentine accessory drive belt, 1 fog light bulb, 1 air filter, and 2 cabin filters- not bad for 6 years of ownership and 4 1/2 years of camper pullin'-

Have you or do you intend to replace the timing belt or does Toyota still recommend that at 60k like they do on Camrys


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Old 10-28-2014, 09:01 PM   #24
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Answered my own question. My tundra has timing chain not belt. Much longer life


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Old 10-28-2014, 09:29 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Goal15 View Post
Have you or do you intend to replace the timing belt or does Toyota still recommend that at 60k like they do on Camrys


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I don't know yet. I'm at 43,000 miles.
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:35 PM   #26
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It appears that on the 5.7 V8 there is a timing chain that should last the entire life of the engine and only needs to be replaced if you overhaul the motor. This according to the TundraSolutions Forum


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Old 10-28-2014, 11:15 PM   #27
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For what it's worth dept.

An experienced semi driver friend of mine said that he and a number of other drivers prevent hot, warped, brakes by following a simple rule when possible. Never go faster down the hill than you were able to go up. So if you can pull your AS 35 or 40 mph up then you have an idea where you should try and maintain speed going down. Save brakes, rotars and money. I just spent $1,300 buying rotars on all 4 wheels for my F250 in Council Bluffs.
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Old 10-29-2014, 10:24 AM   #28
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Use your gears to slow down and brake only when that is not enough. You can get the brakes so hot that the fluid boils and you have no brakes at all. I use to do this all the time while dirt biking and using the rear brake to steer. I would have to stop and pour water over the brake caliper. If you have the tow/haul thing use it. I am sure that one reason trucks use air brakes is that they will work when red hot till something melts.

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