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Old 09-05-2007, 04:31 PM   #1
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Boundary Waters Canoe Area- long

Why did we come home?

12 days- 4 days of that travel, 1300 miles. A sore back and butt (from canoeing)

My wife and I had been thinking about this trip for some time. We read way to much about the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA) in Minnesota online and in brochures sent from just about everyplace north of Duluth, MN. It was hard to decide where we would set up our "base-camp". I knew I wanted to be near some sort of dump station and have access to pressurized water rather than hand pump water.

After printing off info on dozens of campgrounds, we decided our destination would be a place called Sawbill Lake, about 23 miles from the town of Tofte, MN. Actually, Sawbill is one of the entryways to get into the actual BWCA, and across the road from the campground is the Sawbill Outfitters.

Our trip began driving from Chicago to Superior, WI where we stopped for the night at a state park called Amnicon Falls SP. This was after nine hours of driving. We needed rest and wanted the Eurovan to rest. I've noticed that you are not allowed to run any generator in any Wisconsin state park. That kind of sucks if you want to boondock but need to zap the batteries every day or so.

Speaking of batteries, I was a bit concerned, because when we picked up the AS at storage, I checked the batteries and they read 10 volts! Not even enough power to get the power jack going. (I solved that by plugging the 7 pin plug into the Eurovan. These are the original Interstate batteries, and I think they have served us well, but I know I'll be looking at something new next season. We did bring the Honda 2000 with us, knowing that Sawbill did not have electricity, but they allowed running a generator for an hour or two during non-quiet hours.

Nine hours of driving seemed to temporarily heal the batteries. In my mind, there just had to be enough power to go 24 hours, when I would then run the generator.

Next AM, bright an early, we continue on into Duluth, and beyond that on highway 61, It's all scenery, all the time. Beaut-gorgeous. We averaged about 60-mph most of the trip, but here we dilly-dallied going about 40 and taking scenic side roads. We stopped at a bakery in Two Harbors to buy all things apple, cinnamon, chocolate...

We finally made it to Tofte, MN and the 23 mile hike that dead-ends into Sawbill Lake. As I had expected after calling the outfitters at Sawbill, the first couple of miles were paved road, to be followed by "gravel" road. First off, the first mile of the paved road was quite a climb! I had to throw the VW into 2, but the Euro made it like a champ. Slow, but successful. This was just the beginning of what was going to be the longest 22 miles of my life. Finally reaching the gravel, the first ten or so miles were without incident and we plowed along going about 25-30mph. Then the wash-boarding began, and seemingly never ended. My speed really quickly dropped down to about 15-20mph. I kept checking the rear-view mirror to see if the AS was still there. Things just got worse the last five or six miles.

I finally figured out which tooth goes where in my mouth after this underware-altering event.

The first sign that we where really close to the end of the line came as a vision of the universal dump-station blue sign, just before the intersection that goes to either the outfitter or the boat launch/campground.

We made it!!! For a few moments, I was considering just leaving the AS at Sawbill forever, rather than tow it back on the road from hell. I felt the need to inspect the VW and the AS immediately after putting my teeth back in my head.

We pulled over by the outfitter building, walked around the rig, and everything seemed OK. Engine sounded fine. No burning smell, except my armpits. All tires still pretty much round and attached.

Anticipating a somewhat rough ride, I had duct taped our refridge door in case that bounced open and released all of my corked belguim beer. I usually do this anyway on longer trips.

I'd like to say that the AS made it through as well as the Eurovan, but...

The stainless steel rock guards did their job. Even going slow, I managed to make the guards look like they went through a meteor shower. Mud flaps on the van you ask? Uh, no.

Upon entering the coach, All the overhead cabinet Plexiglas doors were open, and two had fallen out of their tracks and on to the floor. Easy fix there.

The closet door had not only opened, just about every screw came out of the hinges or were begging to be . The door was sadly dangling against the privacy curtain. On our CCD, you really have to give the closet door a good pull to open it, so I can only imagine the force it took to get it this way. Wait, there's more!

The converter (inverter?) thing was halfway out of it's mounting. I shoved that back in, and re-screwed it with the SMALL screws that AS used to install it. I fixed the closet door as well.

Any and all sawdust and metal shavings that the AS factory may have left hidden in our unit was now out in the middle of our coach, ready to be swept up.

In that debris, I found about five screws, some with the painted white heads. We went from front to back, top and bottom, and could not figure where these came from. I was mildly alarmed because I also found a half inch nut lying beside the inverter/converter thing. I was not able to figure out where that went. All those pieces went in a little "lost children" bin I use to collect rivets, screws and so on that I keep finding in our unit, thinking that someday I may find where the hell they came from.

OK. Inspection/repair/patching done. Time to look for a campsite. And we found a beauty that had a great view of the lake, and it was huge. You could have had twenty five people camping here, but it was just the two of us. We knew we were going to love this place. We also knew that with the 20 miles of butt-bouncing road, we were not going on to many road trips.

We went and filled water at the water/dump station, Did my finest backing in job. Let there be booze!!! Did I mention that on this trip, along with the beer, we had a nice bottle of mescal and something called buffalo vodka, that has a piece of grass in it. Sounds weird, but tastes good, and has a great effect on the Mrs. It seems to make her laugh all the time, but she claims that it is me that does that. I can't imagine that.

Most of the trip was spent relaxing in our campsite. There was a complete fire ban everywhere due to extreme drought conditions by our second night. We had our first and last fire, and since charchol BBQ was also banned, I did a lot of BBQing that first night.

The obvious activity to do here is canoeing. Deciding that we would not let the fact that neither of us had been in a canoe for decades, we went ahead and rented a fiberglass canoe. The not so fun part was having to portage the canoe from the outfitter about 250 yards to the water and back again on return. I was hoping to rent a canoe that would suddenly sprout wheels upon contact with dry land. A kid looking to make some good dough could make a killing schlepping canoes from newbies like us! After signing the necessary forms stating that the outfitter is not responsible for death or dismemberment, we were off.

No moose or bear sightings. Lots of wild raspberries and blueberries. We ate alot of those. My tongue is permanently purple from them. Then again, it could be just a huge bruise from bouncing up and down in my mouth on the ride in. Lobster mushrooms too, but we didn't get to eat any of those. We were glad that we did not bring the bikes with us. There are no real suitable trails around Sawbill. In fact, the closest and best hiking was back near Tofte where we did the mile and a half Carlton Peak hike. Nice. We also passed a great bike trail that goes along Lake Superior by highway 6.

On the second of our canoe trips, we did the "Kelso Loop", one of the few non-multi-day outings and that trip was about eight miles. We saw a gigantic snapping turtle walking down the portage path and we let him or her pass. A great lookin' fella and what a kisser!

Power from the batteries seemed good for 24 hours. My voltage before charging was anywhere from 11.3-12.0 volts. I also noticed some moisture on top of the batteries. I added a whole bunch of distilled water prior to our leaving Chicago, too. My gut tells me that once you have to introduce water to the batteries, death could be immenant. The fan from the fridge was the most draw, which ran almost constantly, until the outside temp got to less than 55 degrees. The furnace, which we needed sometimes at night, was a draw as well. To make the black tank last the entire trip, we (hesitantly) used the out houses. My god, what the hell are people eating? Showers and dish washing was done during times when generator was running to minimize affect on batteries.

We did a driving day when we drove into Grand Marais. It was really windy and gray. We stopped at the Angry Trout restaurant and had some soup and sandwiches there. Very good. We also went next door to the restaurant to a fish house to pick up something for a meal back in Sawbill. Unfortuneatly, it was Monday, and there seemed to be little inventory left. My wife, who is an east coast fish know-it all said that Friday through Sunday might be the best time to pick up some gilled item.

Back at the camp ground, we spent our time reading, drawing, playing and listening to music on the Lev-Blaster, just un-winding from all big city and job related crap. In a funny way, it was kind of nice not having to deal with a campfire; finding wood, smelling smoky. Boy did we get lazy.

We left Sawbill on a Saturday and drove about 10mph to get to highway 61. Once again, I pulled over to check the AS. I had to reinstall the closet door, which I had duct taped shut even for the ride back. The converter/inverter thing was trying to make a break for it again, and I screwed that back in.

Our last night was spent in Wisconsin at Black River State Forest, A few hours north of Madison. They had pull-thru sites, which we took advantage of, because I was tired.

A great trip, and would love to go back to BWCA real soon. August is a great time too. Very few bugs. We never once set up the screen tent or spray bug repelent.

Thanks to CanoeStream and everyone else I bother endlessly with questions.
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Old 09-05-2007, 04:34 PM   #2
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..a few more...

A few more.
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Old 09-05-2007, 05:08 PM   #3
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Our trip to the north woods!

I did a trip a few years back up at Voyager National Park which is up by International Falls Mn. Because Voyager is only accessable by water, we rented a houseboat. I found the houseboat rental site via the Internet and looked at the pictures of the available boats. What I didn't realize was that the pictures were probably about 30-40 years old when the boats were new.

The obvious signs of trouble were out there when the rental folks noted that the entire rental was payable in cash or travelers checks. But since we had two dogs with us, rental companies who allowed dogs were limited.

After arriving and paying our money we went down to the docks and realized the boats were obviously much older and not as nice looking as they did on the web. We also found that the lighting in the houseboat was by gas lights rather than electric or 12 volts. Water storage? I thought we would have a fresh water holding tank. No, apparently they never clean it and they dropped off 5 red jerry cans that probably had a combined total of 50 gallons of water.

Once out in the water we found out that the lake was full of hidden rocks. You had to use a map to navigate by and depend upon buoys or markers on the shore for positioning. Oh also the compass was broken too. We had a onboard CB to call for help if necessary. Only to say the entire trip was white knuckle as I prayed to God that we wouldn't hit a submerged rock. As a mater of fact the second day out we saw another rental houseboat that had hit a rock with one of its pontoons. The folks had called for help and were waiting to have someone pull them off the rock. The water was too cold to swim in, and the wind whipped the lake into whitecaps that made us look for sheltered coves. Obviously the rough travel did a job on the gas light mantels, but they gave us plenty to replace the broken one's with.

It was almost impossible to find any kind of shoreline to beach the boat so we had to live with an almost constant rocking. After 4 days my wife and son could take no more and we headed back to the rental place to return the boat early. Needless to say we got lost and had to radio for help since I was following an unknown to me at the time, broken compass.

I can tell you that our trailer on the parking lot never looked so good. There's lots more to the story but that's for another time.

Jack
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Old 09-05-2007, 05:59 PM   #4
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Thanks for sharing. My wife wants to go to the boundary waters, too. Glad to learn what a smooth drive it was. I guess, learning from you, I'll duct tape my mouth closed once we get near the destination ;-)
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:28 PM   #5
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CrazyLev, sorry about the road from hell, but then look at the beautiful country surrounding you! It is alarming to hear about the fall-out of screws from the roughness. Shouldn't happen. We vacation in Grand Marais often, and love the Angry Trout. In case you used their biffy, what did you think of the tile mural? One of my favorite biffies in the country! If you ever try this again, do some research on places to camp and day trip up the Gunflint Trail out of Grand Marais. Unlike the days of old, it's now paved and maybe you could find a campground close of the Trail. Lots of lakes are nearby the trail, some with camping though I don't know if camping is limited to tents. Also, of course, you can camp in the city rv park on the harbor in GM itself. That's where we stay and day trip out from there. Glad to hear about a NorthWoods road trip, even on a road from hell! ~G
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Old 09-05-2007, 09:31 PM   #6
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Hey Lev,

The Sawbill Trail is tough on trailers! We took ours up the SB trail last year with some friends as an annual trip. Our next trip is scheduled for end of Sept. I can hardly wait!

The road is bad, but the scenery is such a specail treat. The fishing (in case you elect to try it again is fabulous). The Sawbill lake has a portage on the far shore from the campground leads to a lake with excfellent fishing, as is Sawbill itself. Make sure to bring the fishing gear next time! It is absolutely worth the effort.

The owners of SB outfitters are some of the nicest people you will ever meet. If you didn't have the chance to meet them, you should take the time on your next trip as well... Bill and Cindy are wonderful folks that would be happy to give you some advise as to where to go and where to fish, if you just ask. They are the most gracious hosts of the BWCA you will ever meet.

Hope the bad roads didn't sour you entirely on the BWCA! There are a million lakes and rivers to explore up here and I find myself wishing I had more time to get up there and see it all. (We're just down the road in Duluth)

Thanks for your post! I got a good chuckle as you describe the front of your unit after the trail!!! I had the same experience. When complaining aboutit to my wife (I am something of a fanatic about my AS) she reminded me that we didn't buy it to leave it in the driveway! (Oh yeah)... So I have now come to the realization that I am going to take the AS wherever the road leads and enjoy it to the fullest. A little road rash is just character... I am fully aware I am about to add to the character again in a couple of weeks!

Thanks for the post! Best regards!
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:40 PM   #7
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Great posts and a great story well-told! Many thanks, Crazylev, for letting us enjoy the experience while keeping our teeth--and other anatomical parts-- in place. Your photos are gorgeous, as usual.
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:02 AM   #8
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The boundry waters was my first wilderness experience. I was 14 and previously had never been to more than a run of the mill state park. Twenty six years later I run for the back country at every chance. Its been too long since I have dipped my paddle in the north country, but you can bet your biffy that I will do it again someday.
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:44 AM   #9
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Greetings.

Jack- A couple of times while canoeing I felt like the captain of the Titanic. By the time you can see gigantic underwater boulders...it's women and children first. We have a compass, but it really helps to use it right-side up!

maxandgeorgia- As we approached the restaurant, we noticed that there was just one "biffy" and there was a line of people waiting to use it. As I always do, I had my astronaut diapers on so I was OK, but the Mrs. used the facility and said that it was a really nice biffy as well.

skykingpilot- We would go back in a second, but not before I went through a few rolls of duct tape to make sure every single thing was secured. Initially I was very concerned about the VW Eurovan, but that was not a problem. Going to treat it to an oil and filter next week, even though I had one a few months ago. The Outfitter folks were very nice. In fact we had a canoe out for longer than a half day, almost a full day and they wanted to charge us for only the half. We paid them for a full day though. And there are some really pretty girls working there, one who was from just west of the Chicago area. She also saw and like my drawings that are on my web site. Hey, at 50ish years old, I can look but not touch. I don't want any injuries from a stabilizer jack weilding wife...

And thanks for the other comments as well.

Jonathan
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:50 AM   #10
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We like to go in through Fall Lake. The Fall Lake Campground is rated as one of the finest in the country. There are paved roads all the way too it with good services as well. About 12 miles north of Ely, Minnesota. Fall Lake itself lies half in and half out of the BWCA.

The campground is listed in this sites campground forum.
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
Greetings.

Jack- A couple of times while canoeing I felt like the captain of the Titanic. By the time you can see gigantic underwater boulders...it's women and children first. We have a compass, but it really helps to use it right-side up!


Jonathan
Jonathan, this was pre GPS days. It would be much different today. We were up on Rainy Lake which does connect to others. Problem was the wind was so strong that we didn't dare venture off the main lake due to the difficulity in seeing the rocks that were just under surface. We also were told that we could not overnight the houseboat on the Canadian side of the lake.

To say the least I would have gladly done it your way than attempting to do it the way we did. With all the things that went astray inside your trailer, you wonder how interior things held together in the infamous Capetown to Cairo treks? Obviously Airstreams are built for paved roads these days.

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Old 09-07-2007, 07:35 AM   #12
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HI, Great post. We're retired in Fl now but both Wifey and I are native Minnesotans and spent youth time in BWCA befroe the feds got there. I'm curious as to your rig. According to what I can find to read, you "can't" tow with the Eurovan. (Obviously no one told you about that so you just think you're having fun (LOL). How does the rig handle with the 19' Bambi. I'm looking hard for a small A/S and had ruled out the 19' because the weight would excede my tow limits on my Honda Odyssey (3500# with factory tow pkg). I would love the 19' if I thought it wouldn't be "cheating death" to tow it. What's your hitch set up? Any tips for minivan towing? thanks, Bob
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Old 09-07-2007, 10:41 AM   #13
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Bob,

Here is a link to Bambi towed by 02 Eurovan?

Read post number 12.

While I'd get a more powerful vehicle if finances were better (a nice Toureg or something), we've had great luck with this van. It is rated @ 4500 pounds and our hitch set up is an equilizer, which we are happy with but it is noisey.

One thing to keep in mind is that on the non paved road, we only went slightly faster than a brisk walk. We were wondering if it actually would have been better to just go 50mph, like everyone passing us. As you can imagine, when hauling the AS with the Euro, it is on rare occasions when I am completely clear headded, well rested. I have pretty good common sense and I "know" the E-van pretty well.

I don't know much at all about the Honda, but there is probably alot of info either here or somewhere on the net.

Packing light helps. When you get done packing, remove half of what you are taking and your set.

Jonathan
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Old 09-07-2007, 10:51 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev

One thing to keep in mind is that on the non paved road, we only went slightly faster than a brisk walk. We were wondering if it actually would have been better to just go 50mph, like everyone passing us.

Jonathan
If the road was wash-boarded, going faster may have helped the smoothness of the ride some. Its pretty much an emperical process to find out. OTOH, going faster will reduce the degree of control you have of your rig. Trade offs.
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