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Old 12-16-2014, 11:38 PM   #15
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Doug-
Spend $5 for a socket that fits the upper / manual gear stud on the camper jack and your ratchet (that you have in your tool kit - riiiight???) instead of the provided "crank" - ratchet turns instead of half turns on the manual connector because the propane tanks are in the way of the crank connection.

You will need to raise it manually to hitch up AND then also manually (this will take some effort) retract it to move your AS so that the bottom of the jack tube doesn't dig into the asphalt as you clear the cement (a hydraulic jack would assist in raising the coupler to connect to ball, but does nothing to prevent "the dig" in)... when clear of the storage unit, hook up gen for a short interval charge and go on your way. We have been there, too! If it is now stored relatively level, you will most likely need to be able to retract ... not just raise your AS in order to safely move it.

Not sure if your batts are very low, that the jack will get enough power from the truck through the small gauge wiring in the umbilical .... without causing other issues. It is a high current draw to the jack. When the batt voltage drops, the current needed to the jack increases - for us- to the point of blowing the slow blow fuse (get some spares, too). Over time, the batts will come up when connected to your TV, but in that same period of time you can manually crank and be on your way. Have fun and see you next summer north of the border.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:55 PM   #16
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Yep ... My Dad was an accountant. He thought I was a genius with mechanical things!
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:55 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mefly2 View Post
Doug-
Spend $5 for a socket that fits the upper / manual gear stud on the camper jack and your ratchet (that you have in your tool kit - riiiight???) instead of the provided "crank" - ratchet turns instead of half turns on the manual connector because the propane tanks are in the way of the crank connection.

You will need to raise it manually to hitch up AND then also manually (this will take some effort) retract it to move your AS so that the bottom of the jack tube doesn't dig into the asphalt as you clear the cement (a hydraulic jack would assist in raising the coupler to connect to ball, but does nothing to prevent "the dig" in)... when clear of the storage unit, hook up gen for a short interval charge and go on your way. We have been there, too! If it is now stored relatively level, you will most likely need to be able to retract ... not just raise your AS in order to safely move it.

Not sure if your batts are very low, that the jack will get enough power from the truck through the small gauge wiring in the umbilical .... without causing other issues. It is a high current draw to the jack. When the batt voltage drops, the current needed to the jack increases - for us- to the point of blowing the slow blow fuse (get some spares, too). Over time, the batts will come up when connected to your TV, but in that same period of time you can manually crank and be on your way. Have fun and see you next summer north of the border.
Ha Jerry:

Now this is interesting - I thought the manual crank had some type of cross pin slot it went into. I have never looked in there, but it just take a socket? You don't happen to know the size do you? I carry both standard and deep sockets with me all the time. I just want to make sure I have the right one.

Thanks

Doug
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:56 AM   #18
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Yep ... My Dad was an accountant. He thought I was a genius with mechanical things!
This is soon true.....
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:19 AM   #19
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I can confirm that trying to run the jack off the 7 pin when the batteries are low doesn't work (Hand cranking the trailer up and down several times to get the weight distribution hooked up in the pouring rain is lots of fun). I also remember having to replace to fuse around that time. Guess is wasn't a coincidence.

The manual crank takes a square socket the same size as one of the standard fittings on socket wrenches. Don't remember which one off the top of my head, I' going over to the trailer today or tomorrow and can check.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:25 AM   #20
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I can confirm that trying to run the jack off the 7 pin when the batteries are low doesn't work (Hand cranking the trailer up and down several times to get the weight distribution hooked up in the pouring rain is lots of fun). I also remember having to replace to fuse around that time. Guess is wasn't a coincidence.

The manual crank takes a square socket the same size as one of the standard fittings on socket wrenches. Don't remember which one off the top of my head, I' going over to the trailer today or tomorrow and can check.
That would be GREAT if you confirm the crank socket size so I make sure I have the right one

thanks

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:41 AM   #21
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I don't think that simply hooking up your electrical umbilical cord to the truck to provide 12 v to the tongue jack will work right away (nor for that matter would hooking the trailer up to shore power.) For better or worse, the electrical connection for the tongue jack is wired directly to the batteries and not to the trailer's 12 volt system. Thus the 12 v that your trailer's converter would be producing when hooked up to either shore power or the umbilical will not run the tongue jack, it needs a battery with a minimum charge in order to operate and simply connecting the umbilical to your tow vehicle or the entire trailer to shore power may start the battery charge process, but I am willing to bet that until the charge has reached a minimum level (which could take a long time with the umbilical cord to the truck) the tongue jack will not work.

Fortunately, your batteries are at the front of the Airstream which is accessible given your current parking arrangement so I would suggest that you bring along a 12 v battery charger and sufficient extension cords to reach the nearest outlet and then be prepared to charge the battery for a period of time necessary to render the tongue jack operable. You may be able to use a generator to charge the battery directly if you don't have an accessible 110 V outlet for the charger but you will still need to get a charge into the batteries to get the jack to work.

Shouldn't be a big deal. It may take an hour or so to get enough charge into the battery to run the jack with the battery charger.

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:48 AM   #22
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You can also just run a set of jumper cables from your vehicle to your Airstream batteries.Pick the battery that has the small wire from the electric jack.On my trailer it is a small diameter black wire connected to the positive side.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:01 AM   #23
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After thinking about this for a bit, I don't understand all this jury-rigging to get the jack to move up and down. They make a manual handle for the jack for just this sort of problem. The OP has not made the only one in existence inaccessible. I am 99% positive that a call to Airstream costumer service will get another one sent to the OP for probably a reasonable price perhaps even free. If they don't have one, I am sure they will provide a source where one can be procured. I would not be surprised to find that larger dealers may have them also. After this, perhaps having a spare one in the tow vehicle might be a good idea. I can think of lots of scenarios where one might wish they had a spare or at least the only one in the tow vehicle rather than the trailer. A traffic accident being one. I'm am going to move mine to the TV, if I can find it.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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Since your tow vehicle already has a jack for changing tires, and you probably never use it if you don't get a flat, it's just sitting there in the vehicle feeling unloved. Put that baby to work as an emergency substitute for the tongue jack.
The only problem I see with this scenario is:
You jack up the tongue and then lower it onto the hitch. You then remove the car jack. However the tongue jack is still resting on the ground and therefor you can't tow it out of the garage. I also believe that somewhere above, the OP says he has a ProPride, which if correct, presents another scenario, ending with the same result. However, it may be possible in the case of a ProPride to lift the tongue jack off the ground enough to move slowly by using the WD jacks.

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:22 AM   #25
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Buy another manual crank. I have two, on in the trailer and one in a tool kit in the truck, just in case.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:24 AM   #26
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You can also just run a set of jumper cables from your vehicle to your Airstream batteries.Pick the battery that has the small wire from the electric jack.On my trailer it is a small diameter black wire connected to the positive side.
A portable jump-starter is worth its weight in gold in this situation. You can hook it up right to the trailer batteries and not have to deal with jumper cables.

There are many brands to choose from, but this is the kind I carry on my camping trips, just in case:
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:33 AM   #27
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Buy another manual crank. I have two, on in the trailer and one in a tool kit in the truck, just in case.
That's what I said a couple of posts above, but you said it much more plain and simple. Where did you get your extra?

Ken
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:38 AM   #28
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I agree with Shacksman on plugging into the 7-pin connector. On the VERY outside chance that doesn't work, the extra jack with blocks of wood may get you out of your pickle. But you may need to remove 12V jack from the trailer to give you ground clearance. It seems most of these 12V jacks are bolted on with 3/8" bolts that take a 9/16" wrench or socket. Disconnecting the jacks power wire may be necessary, too. My Dad always said "Too soon old, too late smart!" Boy, was he right! Shamrock's dad and mine were very wise men!!

Dan
I agree, the plug into the TV is the easy and quick way to do it. Last spring I picked up my trailer and the jack would not work, I found out that I must have double pushed the cut off and the trailer drew more power than the solar collectors in the shade. Wait two minutes, and the jack works like magic after being plugged into the tow vehicle. Reminds you to turn off what you need to turn off.
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