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Old 11-16-2009, 09:12 AM   #15
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1991 34' Limited
we will go with our hearts , Texas
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it is 34ft. I about choked at diesel prices north of Kingman 3 bucks a gallon.. I can push the dang thing. We are going back through Vegas will stay on 95 to 40. It needs new batteries so will do that before we head out. I want to be out of here by 10 can do 12 hrs easy will depend on how it handles and how DH is feeling (he started to feel bad yesterday)on how our timing will be. Figure it should avg 60-65 except on the grades. We thought about going to Havasu for fuel but we did find a cheap place in Kingman the safeway store or could go to the flying joke but it looked like a mess as usual, I can't do the Pilots, what I want is a Petro then pig out at the buffet sheesh I need breakfast this AM. When we pulled a 28ft trl with hay our gross was just over 23k we still got 11 mpg but there were no steep grades sure is weird to not pull into the scales ... keep thinking we will see mr DOT in the mirrors
I think he plans on pushing it to Flag still, personally I want to just stop and smell the roses well the cactus. He gives out pretty quick so I am just letting him do what he feels he can. I would take the wheel but with my luck I would get stopped and that crazy Dr of mine will have really written and had my DL suspended
I did get to Trader Joes and got a oil heater though ... Saw a lot of things at these little stores where I could fix the trailer up to look like a wee cabin then being FT would seem more like home...but home is where the heart is and being together
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:38 AM   #16
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1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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Congrats on the 'new' 34'er. We are out on our first long run with ours and so far, so good.
The 34's have some neat hidden features. Post photos and ask questions!
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:49 AM   #17
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1983 31' Airstream310
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I'll poke around the camp today and see what sites are available to take you. As in many older camps, there's a couple that are easy to get into and a bear to get out. If you think you'll make it; I'd get a reservation and tell them you have a 34 footer. Godspeed.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:27 AM   #18
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when you get here

Sandy Lake? Well, even though I do not recommend them for Vintage Airstream work anymore, North Dallas RV is directly across the road (I-35) from Sandy Lake. They could be a good resource for you if only for convenience.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:32 AM   #19
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If you run into any problems, (God forbid), send me a PM and I'll give you my cell #.
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Old 11-16-2009, 10:50 PM   #20
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1991 34' Limited
we will go with our hearts , Texas
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Thanks Mike. We had to stop as DH is getting sick. Not sure what town we are in but Vegas is 100 miles away. I swear NV got bigger since Saturday.
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:58 AM   #21
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Let us know if we can help.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:47 AM   #22
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Hello, I am about 60 miles away from Las Vegas about 60 miles outside of Kingman.If I am close to where you are and can give you some help let me know.
Jo
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:14 AM   #23
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Reading another thread reminded me: did you get a sway bar installed? Are you in Beatty?
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:45 AM   #24
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great adventure and good fortune

well, each mile in nevada got 34 foot longer! The west always gets longer when you leave...best of all to you.
ol' bill
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:01 AM   #25
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Steve and I have found that we don't travel as far or as fast pulling the trailer as we did when just driving in the car. Hope everything is going well on this first adventure.

Anne Marie
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:06 AM   #26
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I wish they'd check in, but methinks they have bigger issues.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:09 PM   #27
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If it gets serious, I can help get the outfit back to DFW.
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:31 PM   #28
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No better tow rig than the CTD. Hope yours is also the 305/555 motor. Mine is a 2WD with NV-5600 and 3.73's on stock 265/70-R17 MICHELIN LTX A/S. I solo or tow at 1,750 to 1,850 rpm to keep vibrations to a minimum (more on that), fuel mileage high, and peripheral vision/braking distances maximized.

Don't believe ANYONE that a weight-distributing hitch with anti-sway is not needed. Skill won't matter at the crucial moments. Fifth wheel is NOT as stable as a well-sorted bumper-pull hitch rig. Only good hitches worth having are the Pro-Pride, Hensley Arrow and Pull-Rite. The price seems high, but you'll never see anyone go back to an inferior type. Flip a coin on the price "problem" and you will daily and weekly travel farther and easier with the best hitch type. A hint on which one to choose is a contributor at this site, 2Air who -- while it's true he drives a Ferd -- has more miles with a big trailer and one of these hitches than anyone else I know of . . . and he switched after 70,000 miles to a Pro-Pride.

Let's see: I'm a lifelong Dallasite (until two years ago); had a 34' trailer behind a Dodge CTD/6-speed; have driven OTR intermittently the past dozen years(flatbed, steel/pipe/ you-name-it); have been seriously injured and given a terminal medical diagnosis; moved house six times in five years including a full-timing stint of seven months while we decided what to do next. Any of this sounding familiar? (Okay, we only have a cat). The comments above relate to that (and some now-educated common sense) for making good, safe travel daily & weekly. Trip planning I know. What follows are suggestions as to how to think about this equipment and why you may want it at some point. Some of this I have done, the rest is only a matter of $$.

I know you've got more miles than me, you've been haulin' horses and doggies, BUT I've been beat-to-heck BEFORE I bought the trailer, and I hope the following is useful to you. Travel-trailerin' is all about 300 miles or 3 o'clock, so bear with me a little.

50 mph is still a good number for Interstate planning. 58-63 mph is a good range for road speed. BUT, 300-400 miles per day is the old 600 miles per day in a big truck. Sad to say, but true. Get the good hitch (and work the numbers on the CAT Scale from threads on this site to perfect hitch rigging [axle loading; your new bridge law]), continue to work each departure loading as you did in the truck and you'll be pleased with the problem solving.

The trailer will benefit greatly from these things: disc brakes, CENTRAMATIC balancers (in Alvarado, TX), (check axle height and shock absorbers according to InlandRV directions); change marker and tail lamps to LED units. If not discs, then self-adjusting units (see new thread). HAVE AXLE ALIGNMENT DONE. There are more arguments than you can shake a stick at about tires, so read and read on that. Age is a problem. Tire pressure monitors are a good idea as blown tire damage is more than the trailer is worth sometimes.

The best brake controllers (ask any hotshotter) are BRAKESMART (Dr. Performancein Mineral Wells), or MAXBRAKE (Southwest Wheel, also in D-FW). Settle for nothing less, as with the hitch.

If you have the best hitch, best trailer brakes, best brake controller, the rest is pie. You already have the best road-performance trailer.

As to the truck: BILSTEIN shocks (the yellow/blue or the 5100's); a HELWIG rear anti-roll bar (install it and the front with polyurethane bushings) and, IMO, NOT the factory hitch receiver. TORKLIFT makes the stoutest one I've seen. Replace all exterior lamps if three years old. As you know, factory headlights are a joke, so all new lamps will help.

The 4WD's tend to wear out the balljoints quickly, and there are some super-stout aftermarket pieces available (CARLI). As well, the steering sector shaft tends to ream at the lower end; a new fastener or new shaft may be advisable:

Steering Shaft
Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums - View Single Post - Slop in Steering Shaft

Now, to vibration-reduction. Being older, more easily tired and weaker, I still wanted to be able to put in a full day of backroads or long Interstate days when I wanted (not when I could). I believe that in any TV a good ride is mandatory, so the NVH reduction is crucial (Noise - Vibration - Harmonics). It would entail time and $$.

I was reading an article a while back by Bruce Mallinson of Pittsbugh Power who turns up Detroits, Cummins and Cats. He had a firm make for him a fluid-filled crank damper that, (his words) could give you another couple of hours on the road. Vibration reduction. FLUIDAMPER makes one for our trucks:

CumminsŪ Performance Dampers by FluidamprŪ

Another item is a driveshaft vibration reducer:

Balance Masters: Driveshafts

Add some CENTRAMATICS on the TV and you've covered that aspect. Now, as to noise:

ATP
Quiet Your CTD With ATP! - TDR Roundtable

There is a TSB on DODGE door seals. Check dodgeram.org for the number.

Air ride conversion for DODGE seats:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d....html?t=145241

Seat cushions:
AIRHAWK Pro Truck Cushion FAQs - The ROHO Store

Seating posture is a big thing; properly, the shoulder blades should always touch the seat back; feet should rest on the upper floorboard so that backs-of-the-thighs aren't pressured (for full clutch or brake extension) and I should be "centered" behind the steering wheel. I prefer trousers over pants as there is more room to squooch around.

Some other stuff:

ENKAY Mudflaps are the ticket for many to keep the trailer from any further damage. Also:

Wheelwell Liner and mudflap:
Combination Mudflap/Wheel Well Liner Install - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Rest up a little and realize that trailerin' is just as wearing as truckin' . . . and it's even slower. That's just not a choice most of the time. So modify the TV and TT to get the best, easiest (most comfortable) performance and you'll find that the groove is LOT's easier to get back into than if you're out of the [big] truck for two weeks.

And -- I solemnly promise -- if you tell anyone that day you've been a truck driver for X-years . . . forget being able to back'er in smoothly that afternoon. One day penalty.
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