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SilverHoot · 03-24-2009, 08:23 AM

Rednax,

I have tried unsuccessfully to signup on the mailing list and the SS forum that had been taken down last time I checked. Think I'll try the mail list again. Maybe it is working just no activity.

Ganaraska · 03-24-2009, 02:37 PM

Another thing some people do. Chill a dent with dry ice. This makes the aluminum shrink and the dent pops out with a bang.

Sometimes it works LOL.

SilverHoot · 03-31-2009, 08:06 AM

If you look closely you can see a hole to the left of the screw. These are at regular intervals in the U-channel and go all the way through the sub floor. At first I thought that a hold down of some sort was missing but now believe they are there to facilitate drainage should the outer skin leak? Maybe when I get the belly pan off I will be able to make a better guess.

silverleeper · 03-31-2009, 08:12 AM

I agree with you they look like weep holes. If the skin leaks or most likely for condensation on those cool humid mornings.

SilverHoot · 03-31-2009, 09:08 AM

So far I have only encountered screws as are shown in the previous photo. So far I have the lower interior skin removed from curbside wheel well to the edge of the rear window and see no other type of hold downs. I would expect to find something a bit more substantial. There are bolts in the subfloor that attach to the frame in the interior area but so far have not located any at the outside edge in the U-channel?

ROBERT CROSS · 03-31-2009, 09:26 AM

After the dent repair, test the seams WELL for possible leaks.

HAVE FUN

SilverHoot · 03-31-2009, 09:42 AM

Thanks Robert! Yes, I tried using just my hands to improve the dents as I have read others have done. Those that have success doing dent repair with bare hands must have different dents than me or are much stronger than me! here's a pic of one of my dents (not the worst one) from the inside.

Ganaraska · 03-31-2009, 10:03 AM

For pushing out dents you might want to try a rubber mallet. Keep going around the edge of the dent pushing it out. Don't force it. Keep working around the areas that push out easy and eventually the dent will be much smaller or gone entirely.

The wrinkled areas are the problem. A good body man can smooth them out. If you have not done this kind of work before all I can say is don't force it or stretch the metal.

If you know a bodyman who knows how to work metal it might be worth paying for an hour of his time. Cheaper than replacing panels.

silverleeper · 03-31-2009, 10:32 AM

Checkout this thread. Here. It has some dent removal ideas for you.

SilverHoot · 04-04-2009, 08:11 AM

Once I removed the hidden rivets (they were at about 6-inch intervals), removed rearmost the belly pan, dremel cut-off carriage bolts and removed U-channel I tried prying at the joint between plywood sheets and it would not hardly budge. Found that it was joined and cleated with another piece of plywood at the joint. So from the opposite side, I lifted and twisted and cussed and pried and ripped it outta there. Cannot believe how wobbly the WHOLE shell is with just that rear portion of floor removed. Going to get some bracing on it as I work towards the front. Pretty sure at this point I am going to remove the entire shell.

SilverHoot · 04-14-2009, 04:26 PM

Slowly getting the floor removed and making discoveries. Of course had to get an obligatory shot standing on the ground on the inside, some grossness in the belly pan and with two rearward pieces of floor removed along with belly pans.

slowmover · 05-13-2009, 03:49 PM

Am looking forward to seeing more. You're braver than I, that's more than I ever wished to do! On the other hand, the thought of brand-new electrical and plumbing sure makes it easier to think about.

As to bodymen, stop by the local airport. In my town, aircraft sheetmetal mechanics are sought at $26/hr. I'd imagine someone would enjoy the opportunity to work on your trailer.

Keep the photos coming. Unfortunately, on the Tom Patterson site (List) he's unhappy with posting links to other sites, so the opportunity to see a teardown is really great.

(And I finally found my photos of floor removal in my telephone, but haven't figured out how to get them to the computer).

SilverHoot · 06-24-2009, 03:23 PM

Looks like I will be turning this project over for somebody else to continue. I came across a deal that I could not refuse on a 24' 1967 Airstream so will trying to find a buyer for this......

SilverHoot · 06-29-2009, 02:27 PM

Sold to some great people who will finish what I started, I hope we stay in touch! Now I can start on the new project!

ROBERT CROSS · 06-29-2009, 02:53 PM

'Ya done good work, would like to have seen it finished....

Keep us posted on the new adventure!!

GOOD LUCK

SilverHoot · 07-02-2009, 07:27 AM

Thanks Robert, I'll definitely keep everybody posted in a new thread.

SantaFe_Bev · 07-04-2009, 04:34 PM

For all things SilverStreak, you might try:
Toms' Web Page

Bev
1964 Silverstreak Sabre 19'

n8andm · 05-08-2011, 10:22 PM

Thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a '56 SS and I will be doing a gut job as well. I have the same "beading detail' and I never would have thought anything about it until you pointed it out. Dang. I'm going to follow your progress!