Figured I'd get this started. Only camera is my cell phone, but I'll try to figure out how to post pictures. Many thanks to the A/S folk who took the time in a large number of threads to detail how their trailer floor repairs went, I spent a few days reading to try to prepare.
My wife and I are upgrading the interior to live here for a year or more. We bought an Italian leather sofa, dark-brown, (and barely, I mean b-a-r-e-l-y got it through the 26" doorway), she's ordered us some curtains, and I'm overseeing the floor repairs (doing some of it) in order to lay a cork tile floor (12x12 gluedown). (I'd have preferred Marmoleum
linoleum but we found no colors that suited us (working with the gold/silver and black-trim). At some future point I will be replacing the lighting fixtures with higher-quality marine pieces, but that will be a job in itself as we go through the electrical system to fit a pair of TV's, new stereo, security alarm, etc.
Trailer is a 1983 Silver Streak
Model 3411. We bought this recently from a very nice couple outside Montgomery, Texas and have hauled it back to Dallas (with a trip back and forth to Corpus Christi). The carpeting was removed and leaks were searched out. The awning came loose in a windstorm several years back according to PO, and the starboard bow has several tears around window which have been "fixed" (hopefully). The floor in that corner was wet after weeks of rain, but dried up nicely. Used antifreeze and a heat lamp to get it back to normal. Plan to swab some penetrating epoxy over it. (WEST MARINE). The same around doorway where old weathergasket leaked.
The subfloor is 19/32" exterior-grade plywood throughout (a reference on the tommpatterson site (brochure) was that early 1970's trailers had 5/8 subflooring). The worst area was the bathroom where a leaking toilet "water saver" (sprayer) had rotted out the wood in conjunction with what appeared to be plumbing stack leakage (All three stacks have been replaced with metal pieces from Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!
). Mold extends slightly up under wardrobe on port side (near to water heater), but we'll undercut it and slide some new wood in place. As the port side bathroom wardrobe contains the water heater (on the subfloor, underneath a false bottom) and the electrical distribution panel (upper portion, at wall to bedroom), it was determined that this was more trouble than it was worth at present. I'll use more bleach and then more antifreeze on it if it appears to be growing.
A single piece of 5/8" CDX was purchased and will provide enough for the rearmost 4x8 replacement (including toilet stand). If I have time, a coat of Sherwin-Williams
A-100 exterior-grade latex primer will be brushed on.
I went out today to purchase supplies and bought fasteners in a close or barely larger size to replace those removed. (Few required cutoff; most of those near to toilet):
100 pcs each (for future jobs); boxes:
8x5/8 Combo Pan Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
8x1 Slotted Hex Washer Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
12x1 Phillips Flat Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
10x1-1/4 Combo Sheet Metal Screws (Zinc)
(Stll need the big floor screws, almost lag screw type but self-drilling)
The work includes removing the toilet, sink/vanity, the wall separating the trunk from the bath (many of the countertop screws are accessed from trunk) and to access the floor attaching points of the 4x8 panel. We cut the vertical trunk panel in order to remove it (there was a seam we followed), and that was the only difficulty (for re-assembly).
The new floor has been cut (three pieces) as a single piece would be just too much to try to maneuver into place during reassembly. (The third piece is the toilet flange). We'll "sister" onto one of the frame riggers to get the floor installed.
There is no significant rust on the metal frame as exposed, and the insulation (removed) wasn't bad. In fact, besides the wood, nothing looked as if it had suffered years of water attack.
This work included several men on a crew and labor total was around six hours. The work went easily until it was time for the painstaking removal of small rotted pieces. Had to use a chisel and pliers to get wood from the interface of skin/frame around perimeter.
The one spot that was difficult was the corner nearest the window of the countertop/sink/shower enclosure. This will necessitate a bit of time to properly replace.
Is there a "C" channel as the A/S folks have? No, not per se as the floor is not a structural member in the same manner. However, the exterior skin and interior skin (separated by 4" of insulted space) are underlain by a metal skin and the wood subfloor is very tightly held in place, as well as screwed in from underneath. (A more experienced S/S owner can chime in here to correct me). This is based on what I can see and feel. A more extensive floor replacement would benefit by removal of the belly skins (on an S/S there is 4" of insulated/skin and 4" empty air space to belly skin underneath the subfloor). I can see no reason not to simply take the time to remove from the interior space as we are doing, removing the lower skins would be prohibitive, IMO.
I'll post more as the job finishes. We may replace the sink with a brushed stainless or copper piece, and vanity countertop with CORIAN
I'll start another thread on the cork flooring once that contractor arrives.