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03-31-2016, 09:47 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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Silver Streak Clipper Front Window Help
I am rebuilding my 1952 Silver Streak Clipper.
I am in need of some pictures of a stock Front window. Exterior and if possible one with no inner skin.
I know they had a 1/8" ply stiffener, most of mine was missing.
I am also needing to water proof the Acrylic pane, new, to the u channel clip assembly. I am guessing the screws and silicone. Also unknown on my trailer as there was a recent unauthorized window replace done.
Am getting the plywood and bronze tint acrylic tomorrow.
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04-03-2016, 08:23 AM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Bartlett
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 136
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I have to do this window replacement also. I'm hoping someone can share some help for us.
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04-04-2016, 08:57 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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This has now become my nemesis. I need the windows. I have been lagging on this.
But, here is where I am.
First off. I did another look at my current parts. Some missing shorts, but they are straight sections. On the curves there are cracks, but they are complete.
So like my Hehr Standard Hinge, time to fab or time to scrap.
I remember talking to a auto restorer and he explained how a channel is made. I am looking Ito making some short 0.032" 5052 sections. Major trial and error and trial again area. Fun times.
For a backup I found some rubber edge protector that will work....it is black. McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#trim-molding/=11u3hu6
Many choices. What does yours look like? Missing sections?
Curved sections are way beyond my fab skills.
I found and will be getting some 1/8" Marine Ply. I have one side of the window original plywood section and will move on with common sense as my guide for the remainder of the reinforcement. I am doing a lot of that.
Front and rear windows are a project starting in a week or so.
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04-04-2016, 07:55 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Bartlett
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 136
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I have not taken mine apart. The trim all appears to be good. I guess when I try and remove it I'll find out. The previous owner loved silicone. The whole outside edge was covered in it. I guess he was trying to make a seal. My plan was to use Lexan for the windows. It is very tough and should make the curved window without heating it to bend it. Again, I'll find out when it's out. Here is a picture of the inside. If there are any pictures you need let me know and I can take any closeups if it helps.
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04-04-2016, 08:36 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1965 17' Caravel
Curtis Wright
San Marcos
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
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folks you will see that melodyranch has replied on the other thread. i have been to his house where he totally restored a curtis wright amongst many other trailers. you may reach out to him on this question. he totally knows his sh*t on everything. he is great.
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04-05-2016, 01:21 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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First off many thanks for the Window picture. If it is not a problem, a shot of the upper window area. It should contain the inner end dome to window frame junction.
So, some shots of my parts.
This is a full set of trim pieces on an old window.
2 curved sections, a short Union, and 3 clips.
This is my only surviving plywood piece.
This shows the only evidence of a now missing plywood strip to reinforce the bottom(.) seam. Also that area has some micro tacks holding the bottom seam plywood
Back to the trim. I have to fab some short sections. I also have many missing clips. One idea is a longer Union piece that fits over the original u channel. Do the same on the upper junction to match. I just need to anchor it on a screw hole.
I may use a plastic strip of the bottom seal plywood reinforcement.
I am going to fab a seal that will be between the Alu u channel trim and the acrylic window. Most likely EPDM very soft to seal. I will use PSA to adhere on both surfaces. I did this when I re skinned my doors.
Thanks for the CW thread. Nice to see survivor resurrection of Americana in the early 50's.
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04-05-2016, 08:27 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Bartlett
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 136
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I'll try and shoot a couple pictures tomorrow.
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04-06-2016, 07:29 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Bartlett
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 136
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04-07-2016, 08:13 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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Totally awesome shots.
Many thanks.
Found some clues as to the construction sequence yesterday.
I will photo doc and keep notes.
I will be occupied for awhile straightening the u channel and trim pieces.
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04-07-2016, 07:18 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Bartlett
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 136
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Good luck. If you need more pictures let me know.
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05-05-2016, 08:13 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 236
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been there done it. I have many more pictures if needed. I have been through three Clippers.
The picture I am pointing at is of seam tape to seal the windows.
John Los Angeles, CA
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05-06-2016, 08:09 AM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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John, thanks for the pictures. I use your posts a lot.
So, last night I got my acrylic Sheets. Bronze. Looks familiar?
I cut a bunch of 1/8" 90 duro Buna strips. Layman speak hard but still flexible rubber like stuff. 5/8" wide 24" length. 2 layers.
That Project continues tomorrow.
I will be riveting the last 2 pieces for an inner end cap build today. Replaced 5 of 7 leaves. That was fun.
Finally Sun in Portland.
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05-08-2016, 10:23 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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Back from a good work Day. Inner end cap done.
Brought all the trim pieces. All the sheet aluminum pieces were paint stripped, then acid washed.
Then came the match the screw hole game for all the pieces minus the acrylic sheet.
#8 screws and nuts only for now. Half the holes are #6 and will get re drilled for #8 screws.
I am missing a 6.5" common bottom seam Union. Most connector clips and 4" of U channel trim. I have my brake and some 0.020" Aluminum sheet. Tomorrow.
So now the good stuff.
Great shot of the u channel trim with a spacer and a replacement for the original window putty for the exterior side u channel seal. I had some butyl based tape the did not like my drill bits . So I am using some 0.032" neoprene foam tape with some PSA.
The inner gap is filled by some 0.125", high duro, hard, Buna strips 5/8" wide.
Plan is to apply foam tape, tack the Buna strips in place with 3M Super 90 glue. When dry make all holes the same diameter. The attach u channel. Re drill to match holes.
I have a 1/8" diameter acrylic use only drill bit for the window material. Am concerned about the window trim to acrylic seal. Last widow replaced did not have the wood inner spacer in when tigening screws. Let's say the trim is not as flat as new.
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05-08-2016, 10:25 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 68
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Hmmm. Here is that great shot I promised...
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06-16-2018, 03:20 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
1976 31' Excella 500
1974 31' Excella 500
1975 24' Argosy 24
Denver
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,106
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Thanks to all who have posted on this thread. I am currently replacing the two front windows, and trying to decide if I'm going to reuse the original exterior trim. The nailed-in (really? nails?), thin plywood that came from the factory to simply fill the void inside the trim seems like a bad idea. I'm also not wild about bolts going all the way through the new polycarb window.
It seems like covering the exterior skin edge (around the window cut out) with trim and then creating a seal between the exterior skin and the window could be done with either a rubber gasket or butyl tape, and then the window could be kept in place by the interior trim pieces that press the window against the exterior skin. Perhaps the bolt going all the way through is stronger, but it seems like the force of just sandwiching it in with the interior trim would do.
I guess what I really would like to know though is the purpose of making the edge trim so thick that it requires filling it with plywood. Wouldn't a thinner edge trim (the thickness of the skin, similar to the aluminum edge trim you would use on an Airstream wheel well) make more sense? I just don't understand the purpose of creating more of a "ledge" for water and dirt to collect at the front of the window.
__________________
25' 1972 Airstream Trade Wind Land Yacht (heavily customized)
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel)
BeahmStream.com
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06-18-2018, 07:50 AM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 236
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I have replaced at least six sets front and rear. The plywood is definitely nailed to the skin. I use window and vent tape between the trim and plexiglass. I have had no issues with leaks on any of the windows. You need a plastic drill bit!! a PVC jigsaw blade to cut the lean.
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06-18-2018, 07:55 AM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach
, California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 236
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the plywood in the channel
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06-19-2018, 06:01 AM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
1965 17' Caravel
Curtis Wright
San Marcos
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 231
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What material for Windows?
What material are you using for the window? How thick and what tint?
I used polycarbonate in another application and got spider cracks around holes where it was bent.
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06-19-2018, 11:47 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
1976 31' Excella 500
1974 31' Excella 500
1975 24' Argosy 24
Denver
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,106
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Yeah, you have to be careful and go slow for polycarbonate so it doesn't crack, but that's the right material (same as used for motorcycle windscreens). I'm using 1/8" thick with a light gray tint.
But I am also looking at avoiding drilling the sheet material altogether.
I ordered a rubber (EPDM) gasket that I'm hoping I can use in place of the old trim (too thick and needing the plywood for support). Actually, the gasket is a PVC covered extruded metal that goes on the edge of the skin (similar to what is used on the wheel well skin edge), and then a "bulb" gasket of EPDM attached to the PVC that will press against the front of the polycarb. The polycarb will then be pressed into place from behind (inside the trailer) with the original trim pieces and either butyl tape or another gasket.
Gasket material should arrive today, so hopefully I'll know in the next couple of days if it works!
__________________
25' 1972 Airstream Trade Wind Land Yacht (heavily customized)
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (diesel)
BeahmStream.com
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