Newbie with a new to me 1948 Curtis Wright

[chris hart]

I'll put new 2x4's on my list of stuff to install! Thanks

[KCN]

When I was in Montana last summer one of the neighboring ranchers found out I was doing an airstream and said she had one too...well, she didn't, but it's an interesting trailer nonetheless. She shoved it into her ranch dump pit, but I can have it pulled out if need be. I'm not sure what it is - a Westwood, maybe? But the point is, there is a hand-pump faucet I thought was really cool and was going to get it out this summer before she totally demolishes it, along with anything of value - unless someone wants the whole trailer. So if you are still looking for a hand-pump this summer, I'll keep that it mind next time I head up there. It would probably work in your trailer??

Kathy

[submariner]

Great Find.. all i can say is, remove the interior Walls and then lift of the shell to do your frame right. there are many ways to do the frame.
Have a look at my “48 liner resurection “ thread in the 48 liner section.. I’m in the process of doing the pipe frame and posted some pics along the way.
Take your time , if money is an issue, but do it right.. My 58 took two years to do the frame.. at my “58 Overlander resurrection” thread you find some pictures of the foam insulation as well as the wall insulation on how i did it.
there are many ways to do it and you can find a lot of helpful information here.

Good Luck and foremost.. post pictures on your progress.

[submariner]

couple pics of my pipe frame.

you can find more in my thread about the 48 liner as well as pictures of the shell lift off.

[chris hart]

CW floor update. Yesterday and today were floor prep and inner skin removal days. I looked at the outriggers in this trailer and have come to the conclusion that most of them are fine. The connections to the pipe are sound and intact. The furthest front outrigger has the most corrosion as well as the one to the right of the door. Both are corroded where they meet the plywood. I can add support to these with a new piece of angled aluminum slid up underneath the old one and riveted in with Sikaflex to bind it all together. I did pull the skins off for the most part. The skin goes behind the closets as one whole piece. I drilled all the rivets out that I could which exposed the c channel as well as the wiring and insulation. Most of the insulation looks fantastic. There is one area where mice have made a nice mansion out of the walls. I 'll redo those areas. Accessing the c channel that screws to the floor was the goal. I have access to those areas all around the floor. I have decided not to put insulation under the plywood for several reasons. First, I live in California. Second, if this trailer leaks, water will be soaked up in the insulation. Camping is really only done when it's nice out! The belly pan on the right front needed some serious attention. Very dented up and dangling. I pulled it off and spent a couple of hours hammering it flat and adjusting the side flaps that attach to the outer skin with rivets. What a pain to put it back in place! I haven't riveted it back in place since the tabs that hold down the floor are also riveted in with the pan at the same time. I'll have to put the floor in first and then add the tabs before riveting it all into place. Temporary bolts hold it for now. It looks so much better! The other side now looks worse! I think a little "in place" hammering will get it in shape. I have other questions that I will put in another post. Thanks to all that recommended the inner skin pull. I think it will pay off later knowing that the trailer will be more structurally sound. Chris

[streamquest]

Chris,

Submariner's mind blowing frame rebuild is the classic example of taking something to the extreme. That piece of work is in my opinion something like an eleven on the ten scale. I can't imagine how it could be any nicer. We all have different skill sets, schedules, budgets, tools, work spaces, and intentions when approaching the same problems. There's a big difference between undertaking a frame off restoration and fixing up an old trailer for the simple fun of it.

Glad to hear that you've pushed a bit deeper than you had initially planned. I don't think you'll regret it. As it concerns your frame, (because once you reinstall the floor you'll never have the same access to it again) I would try to do something about reinforcing the connections between the pipe and the aluminum outriggers. Something I've considered would be to scuff the connections of steel and aluminum, and tie them together with a paste of WEST epoxy. That stuff hardens like iron and creates a bond that will NEVER slip. Just a crazy idea.

Good luck.

[chris hart]

You're absolutely right...Submariner's frame is awesome! A 12!! My frame is very good for an original frame. I will inspect the connections very closely tomorrow and strengthen them if necessary. I had 2x4 sections between the outriggers far out to the sides. They seemed to keep the outriggers straight. I wonder if that was original to this frame. It is interesting to see that the technology and physics involved with designing this trailer seem to be flimsy at best. The thinking behind these trailers ,however, is incredible. Certainly built like aircraft. I've always marveled at vintage technology and have tried to keep my vintage trailers pretty much original. Sometimes, time and money get in the way! I figure this trailer might be ready for some camping in July. I've got time. Money? Hmmmm...

[Melody Ranch]

2 x 4's shown are not original. In the location shown there was no belly pan....it was an open area in the two bays above the axle. Yes, you can see the plywood floor from the bottom. This is where the floor furnace was located ....if one was an option chosen. Your original floor should have had a place, right side of the center line, where a vent hole, plugged, if option not selected.....would be visible.

[submariner]

first thank you guys for the comments, but the frame aint that good :-)


Chris, do you plan on lifting the shell off?
you are already almost there (less than a day work) and it would surely help in the install with the new floor and to insulate.
Once the belly pan is dropped, you can make sure your outriggers are aligned right and you can through bolt the floor. Also the floor needs to go between the c-channel and the outriggers. with the shell on, you would have to split the floor along the long axis of the trailer and slide each side under the c-channel.. the seam down the center will need re-enforcement. I have done it that way before, but it is a lot of work and i ended up removing the belly anyway to secure the floor to the c-channel with bolts as some of those have to go through the outriggers.

Also remember that the belly pan is sandwiched between the outer shell and the c-channel. when i got my camper, someone has cut the bellypan about 2 inches below the actual seam to provide a lip to install a new pan.. i did not like that idea too much, but i guess it works.
.. just my 2 cents

[chris hart]

Hello again vintage kin. Thanks for the info submariner. I am not planning on taking the belly pan off nor am I going to lift the shell off. The sub floor, for the most part, is in very good shape. I did pull the skins off of the lower portion of the walls. I have access to the c channel to screw them to the plywood floor. Today, I made a template for the front and rear sections of the floor. What a pain! With a piece of cardboard and the sink counter top as a starting point, I trimmed the box for a couple of hours until I had a nice fit. I cut the ply and it fits. I still have to do some work on the outriggers to make some corroded areas sound. I will coat the surface rust on the main pipe. I have a feeling that I will lay down some temporary ply in order to strip the 3 layers of latex paint on the inside. No sense in messing up a new floor. After all this work, it sure doesn't look like I did much. Typical!