My Silver Streak Project!

[ETN550]

Hi,

Thanks for comments. Looks like you are well underway with your refurbishment. Keep posting pics!

I hope to have more done and posted this upcoming weekend. Sometimes the little parts and pieces take a while to get done. I just spent most of this past weekend cutting in the holes for the electrical outlets and lighting and wiring it all up. Now I am starting on wood / aluminum valence boxes for the curtains. They are quite detailed so I imagine I will be working all week in the evenings and then this weekend and still may not finish. They will be awesome and I'll take some pics and post.

The weather is getting hot here in Tennessee in the high 80's and maybe 90 this week. So I must address the curtains to keep the sun out when I run the A/C and work inside it. Hope to be on the road by the end of June. later!

[Hueytownalss]

Great blog on your SS restoration!! Excellent documentation. I have a SS Supreme Rocket, 1978. The intertior is great except for some really ugly green shag carpet. Have plans to replace it with some sort of hardwood.

Exterior of my SS is my main issue. The anodized aluminum is seriosly faded and cannot be cleaned or shined. I have tried everything in the last few years to remedy this, to no avail. (The only "FLAW" in the design of Silver Streaks was anodizing the skin, and no good way to care for it over the long haul.) Although drastic and time consuming, I am in the process of de-anodizing the exterior and polishing to a mirror shine. It will take some time, but will be worth it to me .

Keep up the great work on your SS!!!

[ETN550]

Originally Posted by Hueytownalss

Great blog on your SS restoration!! Excellent documentation. I have a SS Supreme Rocket, 1978. The intertior is great except for some really ugly green shag carpet. Have plans to replace it with some sort of hardwood.

Exterior of my SS is my main issue. The anodized aluminum is seriosly faded and cannot be cleaned or shined. I have tried everything in the last few years to remedy this, to no avail. (The only "FLAW" in the design of Silver Streaks was anodizing the skin, and no good way to care for it over the long haul.) Although drastic and time consuming, I am in the process of de-anodizing the exterior and polishing to a mirror shine. It will take some time, but will be worth it to me .

Keep up the great work on your SS!!!

Thanks for the encouragement! My exterior is pretty streaked and feels rough. I will be very interested in learing how your de-anodizing works and how you polish it. I would like to do the same to mine but just a polish to make it look clean and uniform not a mirror polish would be fine for me. I figured if I cool sealed the roof white and with the gold sides there won't be an excessive amount to polish.

[TXiceman]

While it won't cure a streaked and stained anodized finish, there is a product called Everbrite. You can get a sample kit to try it out,

I used it on my 1979 Silver Streak and it was a lot of improvement.

Saying the anodized finish is a flaw, is kind of a harsh statement. The anodized finish is tough, but does require some care like any finish.

ken

[chowman2011]

Speaking of the exterior...The Prev. Owner had paintes the front lower and curbside gold areas on My '77 SS.

Needless to say, the color had to go...so I broke out a gel stripping application on the front area.

Wel, not only did it take the paint off...it took the gold color off TOO!! I kinda thought this would happen.

Any suggestions as to an appropriate 'gold paint' to restore the panels to original look???

Thanks,
Christopher

[Hueytownalss]

TXiceman, I actually got my SS after the anodised was mfaded and dull. Maybe If I had bought it new I could have prevented the damage to the anodizing. Mine is drastically ugly, and that is a shame for such a well built camper, with a lot of style. Either way it has got to go. Process will be slow, but worth it.

[Hueytownalss]

ETN550, I will try to post some pics of the de-anodizing and polishing. Its working pretty well, just slow.

[Hueytownalss]

Chowman2011, I have the same situation on my SS with the gold stripes. they were originally anodized. Some the gold on mine gone, some looks pretty good. I will not be able to re-anodize these pieces, so I will ask a paint friend of mine about what kind of paint to use on these areas. He is actually a paint instructor and worked for BASF corp for many years. He ought to know, and I will relay this info.

[Hueytownalss]

A couple of quick pics to show before and after samples of the process. Sorry, it started to rain and got a few water marks on the shined area, but you can get the idea.

[chowman2011]

Everyone in few previous posts(ETN550 Especially--this is Your thread)....

I too am interested in keeping the extior clean...Mine is just sorta dull--not a big factor considering getting to the rest of the SS ...

Hueytownalss,

from what I have seen on My trailer...I am thinking that the gold areas are not actually anodized--more likely painted gold over the anodized aluminum....
I would think from a manufacturing standpoint--that would make more sense...

I am VERY INTERESTED in what You find out from Your Paint Friend though!!!

Do Have to Say: Your initial work on stripping and refinish of Your exterior looks GOOD!! tempting...Yet...other apsects to take care of here first...

Great Thread!!

[ETN550]

Originally Posted by Hueytownalss

A couple of quick pics to show before and after samples of the process. Sorry, it started to rain and got a few water marks on the shined area, but you can get the idea.

All I can sy is WOW that is really impressive. Please post your procedures equipment chemicals, etc. Very good!

[ETN550]

Originally Posted by chowman2011

Everyone in few previous posts(ETN550 Especially--this is Your thread)....

I too am interested in keeping the extior clean...Mine is just sorta dull--not a big factor considering getting to the rest of the SS ...

Hueytownalss,

from what I have seen on My trailer...I am thinking that the gold areas are not actually anodized--more likely painted gold over the anodized aluminum....
I would think from a manufacturing standpoint--that would make more sense...

I am VERY INTERESTED in what You find out from Your Paint Friend though!!!

Do Have to Say: Your initial work on stripping and refinish of Your exterior looks GOOD!! tempting...Yet...other apsects to take care of here first...

Great Thread!!

Hi, my gold is very faded too. Especially on the left side. Colored anodizing is a dye and it can fade, although I was told black would not fade. And really good anodizing dye may not fade.

I have purchased numerous rattle cans of paint trying to find the color match. Note from pictures I see a brighter gold on the older trailers than the more recent ones like my '85.

At any rate, when I did the battery tray project and removed the old battery box there was virgin anodized gold behind it, un faded. I found that rattle can Duplicolor brand Gold from Pep Boys Auto is a near perfect match. Maybe I dare say a perfect match.

After my rear bedroom redo I'm going to paint the lower black section on my trailer and then paint the gold. Should have something to show by mid - late summer. My trailer has lower corners front and rear that are fiberglass and it has the lower curvature painted black as original. I noticed an '84 did not have the black lower so must have started in '85. Might be the only year for it as '86 was a more modern square trailer.

[chowman2011]

ETN550,
GREAT to Hear from You on this Thread!! I saw a post in regards to replacing interior walls with alum/stainless...and 'referred'... "mrsfixit" Your way....F.Y.I.

The Gold Color was in GREAT shape--other then being Painted over--Silly..Yet People are People...
I did what I thought Justifiable with the front interior of My '77 Silver Streak "Refurbish"..keeping a classic look intact(my opinion)...

Back to the 'Gold Side Stripes'....Mine are in Very Good Condition--outside of the painted sections...I had a hard time applying the gel paint stripper to the front with the knowledge that a good gold background would come off also--and IT DID!

Thank You for Your reference on the duplicolor gold paint!! It would be good option for getting the original exterior look back....

I still believe that is was a painted 'gold' from the factory(over the attached anodized' aluminum....I may be wrong??

Well...Have I wrapped things up for today??? Sorta...

Thanks Everyone!!!

[ETN550]

Nothing spectacular here but turning the corner as it is coming together. Here are the window frames installed. I painted them black. They were painted brown. I installed gooseneck reading lights and an outlet in each of the four corners of the bedroom. The outlets each have a cable TV output and a duplex 120VAC outlet. I'm wired for a light in the front corner left and right but have not installed. I bought some fixtures for this area but do not like them so still looking.

[ETN550]

Ok. Here is where it gets a little crazy so hang on. I have been riveting aluminum into wood with good results. Actually 100% perfect results! The wood has been luan with the vinyl "oak" over it. But now I'm stepping it up a notch.

Since I bought the 5/16 tongue and groove teak for the floor I decided to make valance boxes for the windows out of the teak flooring and aluminum.

Following is my experiment riveting aluminum using 1/8 aluminum rivets into the teak. The results are astounding. The grip is phenomenal. Better than a nail and almost as good as a screw, maybe as good. And this is with a rivet that does not go all the way through the wood. As you will see below when I used a long rivet it actually poped the rivet before it mushroomed into the wood just like a rivet through a metal hole. Therefore, using long rivets is actually stronger than a wood screw and probably similar to a bolted joint as the head is mushroomed out before entering the hole in the wood. Believe me I was amazed and quick to begin constructing the valance boxes. One more thing, in this thin 5/16 solid teak flooring material I did not split the wood in a single place and I was constantly near the edges as you will see in the next posts. To date I have over 80 rivets in the teak with zero splits!!


Test piece with one short and one long rivet



The long rivet will not pull into the wood. The head expands out until it meets the wood then the rivet pops just like with metal! With the long rivet it cannot pull out.



The short rivet will hold well when burried in the wood. This is the approach I used on the valance boxes following. It takes a chisel and hammer under the aluminum trim to pull it out. It does not come out easily!

[ETN550]

It's funny how seemingly simple things can be so complex and take so long. Now that it is getting hotter the importance of good curtains and valence boxes is becoming clear.

Following is how I made some valance boxes using angle aluminum and teak flooring. The aluminum is 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16 and the flooring is 5/16 thick prefinished tongue and groove teak. Rivets are 1/8 x 1/8 aluminum pop rivets.

The old Valance. Stapled blue velour to pine sticks and screwed to the wall.


All of my valances are different. This first one is the easiest as it is just a flat panel that spans wall to wall over the window.


Here it is hanging in place not yet screwed in.


This was the most difficult one to make. It is a full box with top, sides, and front. Note double 45 degree bevels on the wood. Again the wood is easily rivetd close to the edges with no splitting.


Starting to make the box. Notice the small angle bracing in the center. This serves two purposes. There is a seam in one of the runs of wood under the angle and the angle along with the flat piece on the side that shows keeps the wood flat. I used two 2-1/4 inch wide floor strips to make a 4-1/2 inch box valance.


The inside of the box where three panels are mitered at 45 and come together. The aluminum angle on the outside is also mitered to match. I used a chop saw with an abrasive wheel set at 45 a radial arm saw to rip 45's the length of the boards, and a metal band saw to cut the aluminum along with the abrasive saw.



Finished box, inside view


Finished box outside view


Attached existing curtain rod hangers


Valence box installed. Note that because I was in the curve of the roof the side meeting the wall is angled 6 degrees. This is also the angle of the back wall slope.


A lot of work but it will enhance my aluminum and wood theme. I will post a pic of the room when all boxes are done and curtains re-installed. The rear and left side valance boxes will attach to the underside of a shelf and cabinet respectively so they are much easire to make as there is no top required and no ripping the 45 the length of the wood. The rear one is 74 inches long though!

I'm anxious to get these valences done because I am excited to put down the teak floor. I'm going to lay the floor at a 45 angle!

[Hueytownalss]

Keep the onfo coming. You sure have some good Ideas. I really like you choice on the hardwood for the floor.

[chowman2011]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...1&d=1305505589

Next area to work on.....I posted on My thread '77 Silver Streak "Refurbish"

Plays into the Cork Flooring aspect of the remodel / "Refurbish"...

ETN 550,

Looks like You utilized some 90degree Aluminum angle for the straight part of Your walls...that would work for a wall section I need to replace(re-build)...just leaves the curved roof section to attach(secure) the wall section...Thoughts?

Thnaks,
Christopher

[garryk6]

Hi, I am restoring a 1966 Avion TC and have been looking for some anodized aluminum sheeting. I saw you got some from Florida. Do you mind letting us in on the secret stash? ANd if you don't mind giving us an idea as to cost? My issue is that shipping will probably be more than the cost of the aluminum, as I live in Kodiak, Alaska.....
Thanks in advance,
Garry in Kodiak

[JimGolden]

Christopher,

Here are two ideas you might consider:

1) Take the aluminum angle and cut it into pieces about 1.5" long. Lay out your arc on the frame, then attach these "clips" as close as you like along the arc. Then you can rivet your shell to them.

2) Take the aluminum angle and cut notches out of the horizontal portion that will attach to the frame. Maybe remove 1/4" every 1" or so. By doing this, you can then bend the piece into one long clip. The vertical portion will flex no problem, but you need to relieve the horizontal portion so that it doesn't buckle on you.

OOps, on reread I just noticed you were attaching a roof section to the wall and not a curved panel to the floor/frame. Doesn't the upper panel overlap the lower and you just rivet one to the other? And don't they overlap front over rear? You could always use flat plate for that too.

Hope it helps,